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PIAGET Mythical Journey part 4: Engraving Gold

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 4: Engraving Gold

Dear PuristS,

Following the launch of A Mythical Journey by Piaget in November 2013, let's take a closer look at one specific technique used: Engraving Gold.

Mankind have been engravers ever since our ancestors scratched one rock with a harder one. For this report, I am confining the discussion to metal engraving by hand.

Hand Engraving has been described as the process when a hardened, shaped, and sharpened piece of steel, called a 'Graver', is pushed through the item's metal surface.

Today, there are three ways of doing this: by hand pressure (push graver), with a small hand-hammer and chisel (graver), or with a pneumatic air-powered hammer. Pneumatic-Air Gravers emulate both the hammer-chisel and the push-graver techniques. The graver is machined to a pointed shape with very specific angles. These angles allow the graver to properly enter the metal surface and travel forward, continuously curling the metal away from the front of the graver face, while leaving behind a small furrow.

The shape of the graver and the angle at which it is held will determine the furrow shape. The angle may be continuously altered during the process, allowing for the furrow to contain thick and thin cut lines. If a square-shaped graver is used so that one if its corners enters the metal, it will produce a "V"-shaped furrow.

Much of the time, the engraver is sharpening and grinding his gravers with other tools. Many graver shapes are available, each producing a different style and result. The two most used shapes are the "V" and the flat gravers. Every craftsman will have a personal preference.

When using the hammer and chisel method, both hands are occupied; one to hold the graver, and the other to deliver light hammer blows on the graver, driving it forward through the material.

With the push graver method, the graver is fitted to a small wooden handle held in the palm. The graver remains stationary, and the item being engraved is held firmly and fed onto the graver's tip. For circular or curved cuts, the item is rotated onto the graver. When making a straight line, the graver is pushed forward using only hand pressure. This tool requires a rotating vice, or similar fixation device, to hold the item being engraved.

Pure Engraving

Many of the decorative techniques like enamelling and gem-setting require collaboration with the engraver. Some pieces derive their beauty purely from the master engraver's skill. Hand engraving makes it possible to create authentic works of art, whether by means of line engraving, joue slanted-curve etching to achieve a large and progressive cut, or intaglio engraving, a technique for creating volume by deeply hollowing out the material. Each has its own propensity to catch the light and enhance the vibrancy of the decorative effect.

The landscapes adorning the hand-engraved Piaget Altiplano Double Jeu look like etchings but to achieve such subtle relief effect ambiance of serenity, various processes have been performed in a well-orchestrated sequence.

The design was first created by the Design Studio of the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget.

The shape was initially machined to form the first metal outlines. Then, the master engraver applies the crafty touch. The décor of the Altiplano Double Jeu is approximately 3 mm thick, leaving enough matter to hollow out, create a sense of volume and transform the white gold into a work of art.

Intensely focused on the task for several dozen hours, the artisan creates the final engraving based on an enlarged photo of the required motif.

His work must be accurate to the nearest half a millimetre, an objective that demands extreme concentration and zen-like serenity.

His expertise and his artistic sensitivity enable him to faithfully reproduce the design while adding a sense of depth to the many details of the pagoda, the pine tree branch, the rocks, the palace, and the lake. Using his basic tools such as the graver, the chisel and the knife, the Master Engraver breathes life into the raw material that is transformed into an authentic sculpture.

We can admire the authenticity of the building architecture, almost smell the bushy and vigorous pine tree branch, and hear the gentle lapping of waves on the serene lake.

The subtle sheen of white gold, the alternating polished and satin-brushed finishes, as well as the bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds all surround these Altiplano Double Jeu with an aura of infinitely precious radiance.

Several tools used during the hand-engraving process to texture the gold and to obtain the desired surface

PAGODA

Piaget Altiplano Double Jeu Gold Engraving
One watch, two cases
18K white gold case set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 3.2 cts).
Upper case: hand-engraved Asian Pagoda landscape in white gold

Lower case: Mythical journey logo engraved on the case back
Silvered dial
Manufacture Piaget 830P, ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement
Functions : H, Mn, 60-hour power reserve (approx.)
Case diameter : 43 mm
Bracelet : black alligator with white gold folding clasp
G0A38570 – N° 01 / 08

PALACE

Piaget Altiplano Double Jeu Gold Engraving
One watch, two cases
18K white gold case set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 3.2 cts)
Upper case: hand-engraved Indian Palace landscape in white gold

Lower case: Mythical Journey logo engraved on the case back
Silvered dial
Manufacture Piaget 830P, ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement
Functions : H, Mn, 60-hour power-reserve (approx.)
Case diameter : 43mm
Bracelet : Black alligator with white gold folding clasp
G0A38586 – N° 01 / 08

Hand-engraving of the Indian palace: Creating the windows to obtain a marvellous see-through effect

LIFE

The master engraver can also capture the vibrancy of Life itself in the depictions of animals seen on the Mythical Journey.

CRANE

The Red-crowned Crane (Grus japonensis), also called the Japanese Crane is a large east Asian crane and among the rarest cranes in the world. It is a symbol of luck, longevity and fidelity. Piaget engravers have captured the vivacity of these shy creatures on the dials of the Emperador and Altiplano.

Piaget Emperador Gold Dial
18K white gold case set with 163 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 2.2 cts), Mythical Journey logo engraved on the case-back
18K gold dial with diamond-set appliques representing a couple of cranes, pine trees and water
Manufacture Piaget 534P, self-winding mechanical movement
Functions : H, Mn, 40-hour power reserve (approx.)
Case diameter : 32 mm x 41 mm
Bracelet : black alligator with white gold ardillon buckle
G0A38567 – N° 01 / 38

Piaget Altiplano 38mm Gold Dial
18K white gold case set with 78 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.7 ct). Mythical Journey logo engraved on the case back
18K Gold dial with diamonds-set appliques for the couple of cranes, pine trees and water
Manufacture Piaget 430P, ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement
Functions : H, Mn, 43-hour power reserve (approx.)
Case diameter : 38 mm
Bracelet : black alligator with white gold ardillon buckle
G0A38568 – N° 01 / 38

ELEPHANT

The Asian elephant appears in various religious traditions and mythologies.
The earth is supported and guarded by mythical World Elephants at the compass points of the cardinal directions, according to the Hindu cosmology of ancient India. Classical Sanskrit literature also attributes earthquakes to the shaking of their bodies when they tire.

The noble animal's majesty and India's love affair with elephants are captured on the dial of the Emperador.

Piaget Emperador Gold Dial
18K pink gold case set with 163 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 2.1 cts)
Mythical Journey logo engraved on the case back
Gold dial with appliques diamond and ruby set appliques representing elephants
Manufacture Piaget 534P, self-winding mechanical movement
Functions : H, Mn, 40-hour power-reserve (approx.)
Case diameter: 32 mm x 41 mm
Caging diameter : 32mm x 41 mm
Bracelet : White alligator with pink gold ardillon buckle
G0A38588 – N° 01 / 38

PEACOCK

The peacock is one of the sacred birds of Hindu mythology that is associated with a numberof gods and deities as conveyance, companion or adornment. Although not native to China, the peacock was raised and prized for its richly coloured tail. Peacock feathers were worn by Chinese Court officials and perhaps this exchange of culture adds to the glamour of the Mythical Journey between India and China

Piaget Altiplano Double Jeu
One watch, two cases
18K pink gold case set with diamonds.
Upper case: diamond-set peacock in pink gold

Lower case: Mythical Journey logo engraved on the case back
Silvered dial
Manufacture Piaget 830P, ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement
Functions : H, Mn, 60-hour power reserve (approx.)
Case diameter : 43 mm
Bracelet : white alligator with pink gold set folding clasp
G0A38582 – N° 01 / 08

"A Mythical Journey by PIAGET" Series (CLICK the following URL links) 

A Piaget Mythical Journey Begins (Overview)  
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 2: Bulino Engraving 
piaget.watchprosite.com
 
PIAGET Mythical Journey part 3: Plique-à-jour Enamel
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 4: Engraving Gold
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 5: Micro-mosaic
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 6: Precious Thread Embroidery
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 7: Miniature Enamel
piaget.watchprosite.com

PIAGET Mythical Journey part 8: Cloisonné and Champlevé Enamel
piaget.watchprosite.com

Dr M. Teillol-Foo (2014)

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