Mark in Paris
[Purist]
10488
[Baselworld 2017] The Patek Philippe 2017 novelties
Dear all,
Patek Philippe has just unveiled the new 2017 collection!
As usual, we’ll all discover what we might have expected or sometimes be surprised by unplanned models. This will be the appetizers before we can handle them and make our final opinion.
The brand has shown a nice balance between classical, casual, small, bigger and more or less complicated models. Those 24 new references are taking place in a period where it is important to remain curious and daring, especially for us who have a lot of expectations every time something new is coming out and especially as far as Patek Philippe is concerned.
I’m glad to see that the case shape diversity and complexity are still as enjoyable and make Patek Philippe to be in that position that not many brands can promote. The tempered evolution of the collections, year after year, is an exercise where the brand has a strong experience, bringing touches of modernity while remaining a deeply traditional brand, in line with its legacy.
Clothing style, how we live today, what kind of watches we need, what kind of philosophy we wish to be in line with, all these elements evolve and have to be taken into account when considering a new collection. Some may be tempted to like it remaining indefinitely as it was in the past, others wish to bring too much popular ingredients but that’s not how to be successful on the long run and how to participate to evolutions.
On the contrary to what people may think, the DNA evolves slightly decades after decades by small touches and enables the brand to remain in the coveted position where it is today.
This collection is definitely in line with this philosophy, being traditional with a touch of contemporary.
So, let’s now discover the new 2017 collection.
The 5078G and 5178G
The famous Minute-Repeater reference in two different sizes (38 and 40mm), white gold and a nice old charm with these Breguet numerals and hands and the cream enamel dial.
The 5078 has a Chime complication with two gongs while the 5178 has a Chime with two "cathedral" gongs (thanks Alphabet for noticing). The "cathedral" gongs differ from classic gongs from their length (nearly as twice as long). This results in a richer tone and a longer sound.
The 5316P
A beautiful Grande Complication (in 40.2mm) with Minute-Repeater, Perpetual Calendar (with retrograde date) and Tourbillon. Another very significant work from the brand's watchmakers.
It has a black enamel dial which the brand masters perfectly.
The 5131P World Time with enamel dial
The 5131P World Time with enamel dial
Here it is, the 5131 in Platinum showing the North Pole. This time with a bracelet.
MSRP (CHF): 115 000
MSRP (CHF): 115 000
The 5320G Perpetual Calendar
It is the new Perpetual Calendar reference from the brand, next to the 5327 with a totally different dial, case and movement. The dial is inspired by the 1526 reference.
MSRP (CHF): 73 000
The 5168G Aquanaut
In the context of its 20th anniversary, the Aquanaut is presented this year with a blue dial matching the blue strap, with a bigger white gold 42mm case. As explained when I made the review of the 2016 rose gold version of the 5164 (www.watchprosite.com), I think that gold has totally its place in the Aquanaut family. I must say this colour and material combination looks very promising.
MSRP (CHF): 34 000
The 5170P
The Manual wound chronograph is presented in Platinum and I must say it looks gorgeous. The dial has diamond markers.
MSRP (CHF): 85 000
The 5372P
It is the new reference from the 5370's case family. It comes in two dial versions. A very complicated watch in a 38.3mm case!
It is a Split-Second monopusher chronograph (60 minute counter) with a Perpetual Calendar.
The 5396R
The 38.5mm watch looks very different that way and the colour combination is very nice (blue sunburst dial). The watch comes in two versions: diamond or gold markers.
MSRP (CHF): 42 300
The 5940R
A new gold colour for this beautiful Perpetual Calendar.
MSRP (CHF): 77 000
The 5960G and 5960/1A with black dial
The 5960/1A now comes with a black dial but the big surprise is also the fact it is unveiled this year in white gold with a strap. The first time that the sportier steel dial decoration comes with a gold case. You may also notice the "1463 chronograph" pushers' style.
MSRP (CHF): 58 000
The 5960 is a fantastic reference, aesthetically and mechanically. With the steel version, the brand has provided a very sporty model, like it never did before. This new dial layout is very appealing on pictures and I think that it will be even more so in the metal.
MSRP (CHF): 51 000
The 6006G
The new 6006G comes in 39mm with come changes compared to the previous generation. A very nice casual modern Calatrava.
MSRP (CHF): 25 000
The 5320R
The Ladies Collection
The 4899/900G
The 4947G
The 5062R
The 5072R
The Nautilus 7118/1A
Two new dial colors for this reference.
The ladies’ 7130G World Time
This 36mm diamond-set bezel and pin buckle reference, already available in rose gold (silver dial) and white gold (silver and chocolate dial), is now unveiled in a beautiful light blue version.
The 7140G
As last year, I will present the main novelties with further details and my first thoughts in separate dedicated threads in the following months.
You'll find a few pictures Magnus could take at Basel, here: www.watchprosite.com and here www.watchprosite.com
And more on the collection on Patek Philippe's website, here: http://www.patek.com/en/collection/new-models-2017
Please feel free to share you first thoughts and your favorite!
Best, Mark
And here is the official video (if it doesn't work, just click on the message on the movie to be redirected to the video on Youtube):
[Baselworld 2017] The Patek Philippe 2017 novelties
Dear all, Patek Philippe has just unveiled the new 2017 collection! As usual, we’ll all discover what we might have expected or sometimes be surprised by unplanned models. This will be the appetizers before we can handle them and make our final opinion. T...
Big thumbs up for
the new 5320G and the 5372! The 5170P could have been a close contender as the new 5070P if they would have left out the diamond markers Overall, I like the subtle evolution of the line-up. CC
I think they may find back their place in watchmaking
but all depends how it is done, where we'll see them etc... We'll need another 5 or 10 years to find out. In the mean time, there are references I would have prefered without them too. Best, Mark
Salute for the watches you just bought,Joe
Nothing in this catalogue come close to both of the 5370P and the 5131R. Best, Ahmed
The 5320 is indeed a very nice surprise
I like the way it seems to work very much and I'm looking forward to see it in the metal. I like the 5170P a lot. However, I still don't know what to think about the diamond markers. Will they leave this old look we have from the 1980's watches and be abl...
some definite gems
The 5320 feels fresh and very interesting, reminds me a little bit of this watch The 5372 is a special watch hands down, otherwise the 5170P with the new dial also looks superb, a bit ambivalent on the diamonds even if Patek has stuck diamonds on platinu...
Yes indeed, the dial layout is coming from the 1526 reference
That makes this 5320 very different from the 5327. The 5372 looks very nice too, especially since we know how beautiful the case is. I like the 5170P a lot. This is the kind of dial decoration I like. Thanks for sharing your opinion Best, Mark
My first thoughts...
I really enjoy this years newcomer lineup. The following stand out as very welcome additions: - 5650G. Looks amazing and finally to have these innovations in a sportier watch. Perfect way to celebrate Aquanaut 20th! Would have preferred it in steel, or ev...
I feel like...
....a diner in a Michelin started restaurant who ordered the tasting menu, and every single dish arrived at the same moment. Need time to take all of this in, but thank you (as ever) Mark for setting the tone.
True!
Indeed, there are quite some references to have a look at. Take your time and it will be nice to have your opinion. Thank you Chimaera. Best, Mark
So do I
I particularly like also the fact the Advanced Research experience is placed in a contemporary watch like the Aquanaut. I don't know in what material the 5650 will be proposed (the 5168 is in white gold). I think the 42mm size will fit perfectly the Aquan...
Same first thought on the 5960G
Looks BETTER than the moscow, the varnish dial works better than sunburst, and the hands are much better too.
Love the 5170P
In dec 2015 asked my AD to put me on the list if it ever comes out. Must be the first to have asked, so who knows...
That's maybe my favorite this year
I still have to check the markers to be sure. The dial is fantastic. Best, Mark
I was so much looking forward to the 5131P
But the bracelet turned me off,Now I want the R,Don\'t know if they discontinued it. Best, Ahmed
The 5960 white dial has something very unique and cool in the "sporty" line-up
The black one is between the classical ones and the white dial I think. I agree with you on the 5131's bracelet. I'm glad for the people who enjoy it that way but I would have prefered a strap too. What do you think of the 5170P? Thanks for your feedback ...
5170p absolutely spectacular
Judging by photos at least. That dial is sublime and the baguette indices are tastefully applied. All in all the first 5170 I really think is extraordinary. A variety I would have loved to see in this would be a light brown dial, similar to the one used i...
Thanks Mark!
The 5320G is a lovely looking watch but I wish the diameter was 38mm and not 40mm. Also the use of the 324SC movement, as reliable as it is, is not as pretty as the 240 movement. The 5372P-010 is a winner and at 38.3mm is a technological marvel. Although ...
I agree Sham
The 40mm 5320 is indeed another offer next to the 5327 in 39mm. I think they wish to propose something for people finding 38 or 39mm are too small for their wrist and taste. What you say about the 5372 is very true. By the way, it is important to have a l...
The following are my initial thoughts.
I got really excited when I saw 5168G, until I noticed the increased size which doesn't include the crown. The dimensions of its brother in steel (5167) is already optimal, so I don't see any need or purpose by bulking up their sports watches. I would hav...
Yes, this new collection brings quite very interesting things
About the 5168, the dimensions are a tough issue to deal with. Some clients have a big wrist and 40mm watches are much too small, especially when considering a sporty version. Of course someone with a normal or small wrist will not like that. This is very...
3 in the spotlight!
The 5960/01G will be a VERY interesting reference. Aesthetically it pairs well with the 5524G and i see a small "family' of watches being created there. The sporty, modern Patek Complication (brown calf leather straps, blue dials, white metal). The 5168G ...
I didn't know what to think about it at first
The 5960 is a model I like a lot. The problem is that the Pt version is a little too heavy for my taste and was looking at the other versions. This one is bringing the 5960 in a very nice casual way. I didn't know what to think from the official pictures ...
5178 steals the show for me - here is why
5078 is 38mm and 5178 is 40mm, same hands, same applied breguets. Same watch but just bigger, right? NOPE The 5178 has cathedral gongs! Patek did this for the 5079 but it was a big watch at 42mm, and with a thick bezel. (I believe the 5079 is the only tim...
Thanks for your valuable input
This is indeed much more than a size change and will be a very nice characteristic for the happy clients so as for people who enjoy the brand's history and know-how. I must say I don't know much about the older Minute-Repeater versions, thanks for sharing...
No No No No!!!!!
I am still trying to take it in. I\'m not sure yet how I feel but initially my heart sank. In a way I am relieved as there is not one watch I will be loosing sleep over. For me personally I\'m so disappointed with the 5178 whilst it is a step closer for m...
Miles, so right on much of this.
I think there are some winners in the Patek line up but not necessarily watches that fit my collection. One or two possible. But on Rolex. Yep..... midfield dribbled the ball from own half, rounded 3 defenders, took the goalie out and crossed the ball for...
Im pretty dure the 5320 Will look great irl
Give it a chance 5170p is very nice,,,,, but Nothing Will ever beat the 5070 lol
I agree Bruno
We can see some live pictures of these two references now (Magnus posted some) and it looks much more interesting than on the official pictures, especially for the PC. Best, Mark
Well, this is always a tricky subject Miles
Is evolution done the right way or not, the sizes also are a subjective matter etc... Hence, it is very difficult to consider if something is really a mistake or if it is just something we don't like because it is not our taste. Some people don't like Sal...
Mark. Thank you for your reply which is far more articulate than my clumsy post.
I agree with everything you say and agree that sometimes watches are growers rather than showers but in my experience not very often. The 5070 is my only experience of a watch that didn\'t make me go weak when I set eyes on it. So you are right time may c...
No problem Miles, it is nice to have sincere opinions people are also looking for
Looking at novelties with such 5070 and 5970 of yours is quite a challenge Enjoy them and the evolution may come when it is time. The most important is to enjoy the ones we have. Best, Mark
Thank you Mark.
But in the mean time I will continue to be guided through this hobby of ours by pure gut wrenching feeling. M.
Really??? Isn't it great we all see things so differently.
I would actually go 180 degrees and say it\'s the worst I\'ve ever seen. Maybe I expect too much. Maybe Patek feel a bit like Elizabeth Taylor\'s last husband......"He knew exactly what to do just didn\'t know how to make it different" M.
Really MIles?! :-)
You are a man who I respect and admire for your immaculate taste in watches. So if you are seeing things quite differently, maybe I am missing something and will have to have a more careful examination when I have an appointment to view the new collection...
Thank you for the respect shout my friend. And please let me know what the 5170 and 5178 are like in the flesh.
And as I said earlier it\'s a good job we are all different. I stand by my statement. I have a huge love, respect and adoration for all things Patek however rightly or wrongly I have always known instantly when a watch calls to me and I have a gut feeling...
Now the 5178 in Rose and ivory dial. Now that will be something.
Fingers crossed for 2018. M
Hi Sham, when and where is the MR sound testing being held ?
Hope all is well and I await your wrist shots of your 5131R ! LOL ! Cheers, Gordon
There are some very attracting pieces indeed
I'm eager to see them in the metal, especially the 5320G, the 5170P, the 5168G as I think the combination will work very well. I don't think I'll see the Grandes Complications though :p Best, Mark
5170P
I\'m not a fan of diamond markers perse but they wouldn\'t bother me in this case at all. Very beautiful watch.
I agree.
The 5170P has a gorgeous dial (I like the scale and the way it is decorated) and I must say the diamond markers work well here. Best, Mark
5320G of course
with these superb art deco horns Mark, your perpetual dream concerning the 5960P will continue
It looks very promising indeed
I like its style a lot and I think it shows a part of the brand's future. Yes CH', the 5960's choice is a very long journey. Best, Mark
The 5131 P is very clever from Patek to combine it with a p-bracelet and the 5170 p with diamonds, for same reasons:
If you want one you pay handsomely for it. The 5131 seems to look fantastic with the birds eye view over the pole. The 5320 will look too big. A big, big shame: a 40 mm Patek is not classic anymore and not a Patek anymore? The 5170 p seems to be another f...
I had the same thoughts
Especially when the 40th anniversary Nautilus was released. The price and decoration choice is also a way to say to clients, if you want it you have to pay a certain price that will make a quick re sell difficult. On the other hand, I think I would differ...
My first impression is that I'm a little underwhelmed.
I don\'t think it\'s a bad collection by any means but I feel like there are a few missed opportunities. The 5171p is nice, but I would have loved breguet numerals. The aquanaut travel time - great to see more results from Advanced Research, and quite fit...
Thanks for your feedback Russ
It is interesting to see how different the new models are seen on the forum. I have the same feeling on the 5650's dial. As for the 5960/1A, I don't think they will provide a strap version as it will have a quite negative impact on the value of all the br...
I learned something from my Nautilus 40th Anniversary comments:
I will have on Saturday 1.5 hours with a private meeting room and the whole collection. Will comment earliest on Sunday. Best, Kari
Congratulations In advance Kari. Which one did you choose?
Can I guess - the aquanaut travel time?
Make a guess.
I'll buy at leat one but not more than three plus one for my wife. Best, Kari
Loving the Arctic, that's a good guess.
However, it is wrong. The dial is fantastic but nobody probably want to have the bracelet. It's just a way to push the price up and I do not really appreciate such a philosophy. Patek knows what the collectors and enthusiasts want and they should not be t...
I have my 5070P London Edition on my wrist.
Why on earth would I need an other chronograph and this time with diamonds? The blue-black dial is fantastic but... Best, Kari
That's a bloody good question!
Or why would anybody need 3700-001 & 3700-011? Best, Kari
5320 is a strong contender
when it's coming in P. I have, just like you, both 5450P and 5550P. What would be the ideal travel watch? Best, Kari
Hi Kari, I guess that you will get the ...
7130G for your wife and the 5320 or 5372 salmon for yourself. Cheers, Gordon
Probably a perfect watch for my wife
For myself I am mostly interested in white metals excluding WG. Best, Kari
That shows how high our expectations are when dealing with Patek Philippe
and it is also a field in which we want to get what we like, without compromise. That's perfectly natural. On the other hand, our tastes evolve and our way to see new things (not only in watchmaking) can be different depending on the point of view and how...
Hi Kari, wish you lots of fun at the private viewing! Will you get a chance to hear the MRs?
If so, would you please let me know what you think of the cathedral gongs on the 5178 ? Also, please give your thoughts on the quality of the enamel dial on the 5131P. Many thanks, Gordon
Surprised by the black dial
5960A, saw a real photo on Instagram, looks awesome, even with the bracelet. Disappointed by the 5230G: too big. But let\'s wait for the hands-on experience before ruling out anything. Best.
Yes indeed
it is hard to have a definitive opinion from official pictures (and a few on the internet) but that grainy/mat black dial looks very nice and the watch with bracelet seems to look better in that version than the white one. I was surprised. Let's try them ...
Nicely done
Overall a strong presentation from Patek this year in my view. The 5320G is my clear favorite, although at 40mm it is larger than a 5146, so it may be a little on the large side. But it's hard to say without having seen the watch in person. Lots of very h...
This 5320 seems to be very welcome indeed
One of the novelties Purists are really willing to try on. The very complicated ones are a pleasure to admire and dream about even if not affordable indeed. I imgaine like some beautiful cars. I love that 5078/5178 dial Thanks for your feedback! Best, Mar...
Another vote for the new PC
It is indeed a watch that many of us really want to see in real. Thanks for your input! Best, Mark
Ok her goes- obviously not haven seen the pieces IRL my comments are subject to change. Also my taste is vintage not new
1. The standout is 5320 . Not sure if this a brand new movement or the auto 324 SQ( reworked 240 with large rotor?). Big size may be a negative. Love the case and the dial looks amazing - cream dial. Ode to 1526 and 3448 2. The 5131 and 5170 are not new j...
Superbly put. My thoughts with your exceptional delivery.
You are bang on. Please someone explain to me. How is it that Rolex can produce a watch like the 6062 in the early 50\'s and nearly 70 years on with all modern watch making technology can only produce a simple moon phase like they have. Please someone is ...
No....it is not you.
I think somewhere along the lines, about 5 years ago, someone decided to cut costs and fired the entire market research team.
Great first feedback
It is interesting to read about Purists' perspective and how they interpret the novelties. The 5320's movement is the 324 caliber with a new PC module. Indeed the dial layout is something we talked about in the past and wished to see coming back in a PC f...
A pretty good year
I found 2016 quite a disappointment. 2017 much better, so my top 5 this year: My favorite is the 5078G, which I find to be the nicest variation of this reference so far, well done. 5316P a beautyful replacement of the 5216. 5372P-010 is amazing too, thank...
We are of a similar mindest!
My favourite watch is definitely the 5078G for all the reasons that you mentioned. I am also partial to the 5372P-010 and the 5171P. A few months back I managed to buy the last 5940G which I still feel is the most elegant of all the 5940s and it will be n...
I'm glad you're enjoying the new collection
The 5372 has a lot of success, as the 5078 and 5178 references. I noticed also that the sizes, especially for very complicated models has been kept as low as possible. This is not the trend we've been seeing these last years from the watch sector. The 594...
Never thought, this will happen!
Patek just released my exit watch and I can't stop to dream... The 5372P (blue) is just perfect! All these complications with a case diameter of just 38.3 mm and the piece is still so slim... Incredible! Movement, Case, Dial everything impeccable! Never t...
The 5372 is quite a different offer from your 5950
and a great theme so start around the Split-Second It is very successful indeed among Purists. The fact they keep such complicated watches in sucha small case is an achievement and and great choice imho. Thanks for sharing your feedback Dom! Best, Mark
Thank you Russ!
With that stunning case and the blue dial, it's however for sure a serious contender...
Hi Mark, thanks for the post ! Overall I am...
happy with the line-up. For me, special mention goes to 5320, 5131P, and 5178G. 5320 because of its clean and very well balanced dial for a PC. 5131G because I love cloisonné enamel dials and because I had correctly guessed that the map would be the view ...
It seems that many of the main novelties appeal to us
and that's not always easy to achieve. The 5320 from Magnus picture looks to be something very special and that I'm looking forward to try. The rare handcrafts and azulejos are really nice as well. Thanks for your input Gordon! Best, Mark
Patek 2017
Hi guys I\'m pretty happy with Patek\'s leases this year. My blue dial full steel 5726 Nautilus still remains a dream but Patek fulfilled another with the blue dial aquanaut sorry still need to get use to the ref no. I think they did an accelerant job wit...
5131P
Sorry how could I forget about the 5131P. Personally I would have liked to have seen it on a navy strap but I do like it and would to pair it up with my 5131R . Iqbal
There are several new watches to expect in the future
and the 5726 blue dial is for sure one of them! I also think that the 5168G is a fantastic offer for this kind of watch. The colour will match very nicely the warmer white gold tone and the size will fit many larger wrists as well. I think that the 5320 e...
The 5168G is winner in my books!
I look forward to seeing that one in the metal! Thanks for sharing!
I agree!
I think it will look fantastic, the right size for many customers, a warm case hue, the blue dial and its lighter colour in the center... I'm sure it will be very successful. Thank you Babka! Best, Mark
Thank you Mark
Really appreciate your sharing with us, although i have to say, this is the first time in my life that i honestly don't find any of the New 2017 Patek release attractive at all...... kinda ugly even....no offence
Thank you for your feedback
As I said to other members, the brand has known and created different periods in terms of style. Today, many of us are especially served and attracted by the 1990's and 2000's period. The world standards, the economy, the cultures, technologies evolve and...