Patek Philippe

Mark in Paris
[Purist]
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Nautilus 5712 - An "almost 3 years" review

Hello gentlemen Purists,

It's been a while since I wanted to make a little review of the 5712 after nearly 3 years (in May) since I purchased it.

This is a watch I still love as I'm still greatly attracted by several elements which remained important to me on the long run.

I wear usually my watches over a 1 to 3 months period each but I realized this time that I've been wearing my 5712 since last October 7d/7 without feeling the need to change it (until this week).

. Every day use feedback

I still adore what surprised me the first time I had a Nautilus on the wrist (it was a 5711): its thinness and elegance and the quality of the whole steel body finishing. A good balance between brushed, frosted and polished surfaces as a very nice attention to details (links' beveling etc...). Everything is done with the right moderation and with tact.

I always found the object that is designed and decorated with taste is the one with the right touches of ingredient here and there but in small and very accurate volume.

The 5711 and the 5712 are hitting the middle of the target to me; more on the chic side of the Sport-chic scale.

The second most important thing concerning the pleasure I have about this watch is the wearing comfort. The Nautilus is very smooth in a way you nearly can't even feel it.

I have a thin wrist and realized with time that I don't like wearing heavy watches, even if the back side remains comfortable and lies well on my wrist. This element has surprisingly become much more important as years went by.

I would like to emphasize that last point a little more with a comparison with its cousin. The Royal Oak is a watch you feel a little bit more on your wrist: the sharper edges on the RO make it not as soft on the skin (a little bit aggressive) and it is also a hair catcher.

Furthermore, that's not a secret, the dial is something that is worth seeing in the metal and maybe one of the most beautiful one among Patek's collection, imho. It is usually much more interesting and appealing than silvery dials from the brand; very "smooth looking" markers as their edges are not completely square and, of course, the famous galvanized blue/grey coating, the date hand stopping right in front of the current date, all the white printed words and figures are clear, discreet and coherent with the overall dial and so is the moonphase disk simplicity (color and style).

The movement with its micro-rotor is nicely finished but I'll come back to it as it is the only thing I'm not 100% satisfied with.

. Ageing marks

I've been wearing it for around 12 months in 2/3 months periods (as a daily wearer) since I bought it in May 2012, during summer time (short sleeves, hence more exposed) as during winter time (more protected under sleeves and pullovers).

By the way this sort of 40% use in the period is why I try to stick to a maximum of 3 or 4 watches. Getting more would lead to "under" wearing them and this is something I really don't like.

It weighs 112 grams (bracelet included) hence it feels very light and is highly comfortable as I said, the most comfortable in fact than any watch I could try.

I noticed some hairlines on the 5 or 6 polished links placed around the buckle but they are not really visible as long as you don't stick your nose on it. The most exposed part is maybe the security clasp, but it's ok. In fact, you don't see the hairlines when you wear it normally. I perfectly can live with them and I even may be inclined to say I'm proud of them as it means I use it as I think it should. Of course, I perfectly understand otherwise.

By the way, this security clasp works perfectly and the deploying buckle is locking as if it was new (no loose due to wear issues).

The bezel is said to be a scratches magnet (and it should) but I don't have many and they are not clearly visible. Please note I don't do sports or gardening etc with it. With the polished surface any metal to metal contact will leave a mark.

To conclude on the ageing marks issue, the watch is behaving very well, contrary to what we may think at first. Of course, if you use it otherwise, it may be a problem.

. Movement

The movement is keeping accuracy very well even if it's not important to me, thus not something I've been following very closely.

The micro-rotor keeps the movement at full power very well, and I'm not someone moving constantly during the day (lot of time at my desk).

The only thing I think could be improved a little bit is the beveling work performed on the bridges. To be clear with naked eyes we don't see it and it remains very nice and comparable (or better) to other traditional brands' work.

Some of you have already noticed I'm very pernickety when it come to finishing and maybe it should not be such an issue when judging a watch or brand but this is a subject I like in watches as art objects (other would prefer the ultimate accuracy etc...).

Anyway, this remains a gorgeous movement: the well balanced style is light and not overloaded (as Vacheron movements usually are, better looking than a standard AP 3120 or 2120 and not as many blued screws as on German movements), bridges are nicely cut, thin, very well finished (at 95%), accurate and I'm very happy with it.

. Conclusion

I would, as a conclusion, highlight the following points:

The 5712 is a perfect daily wearer watch as you don't feel it on the wrist. It must be one of the most comfortable watches to wear.

It has a peaceful and fantastic looking dial you'll be delighted to admire any time during the day.

I find no true negative point.

Thanks for reading and if you never tried it yet, please, do yourself a favour!

Cheers, Mark