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Rolex

Soul and aesthetics

 

My 2 cents:

I think that the basics of aesthetic has been lost in lot of novelties and also the balance.

When watches were a real everyday tool Rolex ruled it with its technological advance but there was also this special aesthetics of the oyster which made it appealing. The basic success comes from a waterproof, automatic, reliable watch, THAT is Rolex since the 20/30s . There were automatic watch before, or waterproof, but not as reliable, as efficient, as practical and finally as beautiful. The biggest success of Rolex is the Datejust and for me this is the perfect example of what Rolex achieved.  It went further with diver watches, antimagnetic and very good commercials on these success which made the legend. Nicolas explains it perfectly.

The need of a technical watch is not true anymore and aesthetics is the main criteria and the vintage Rolex had a real balance. When I look at my GMT, I love the overall aesthetic, the thin case of the 1675 is marvellous, the pointed crown guards have this fantastic aerodynamic line, the gilt dial is deep and beautiful. I would love to have a Daydate, the case is a perfect combination of curves, sharp edges, a nearly tonneau shape. I could detail Daydate from friends for hours, this is for me the perfect example of aesthetic and balance in a classical round shape, fantastic classical design. I was completely stuck by a double red Mk III , I didn't expect that because I am not into SD. They are too big for me, but this round case back, the effect of the domed glass, wow, that is strong and the case is not that thick as I thought, there is a real aesthetic balance in this toolwatch even if it was conceived for real underwater issues!

Nowadays with the SDDS they pushed the technology further and it is still not so big for the depth performance. But is this watch really for underwater workers? not really... the profile went through the Super Size Me programm. The same with the GMT , the GMT II C sells well, it is a good watch for sure, but never ever it will have the same beauty in my eyes that my 1675.... and the same soul. I like the last Daytona, the caliber is fantastic, it is a really good watch, but there are many details that I prefer on the vintage ones. I like the Yacht master, a special Rolex, the milgauss is fun too with a sensual case. In the new "massive" case, I think this suits well to the Submariner. It is a diver and this suits well a diver watch, but I would not dare to compare it with an old 5513.

Rolex kept the same line for 50 years, it was time to move on, but they reached a kind of perfection (especially during the 60s imho ) and it is difficult to go away from that point.

Technology is better, finish is better but we lost soul and aesthetic in some novelties...

I wish the best to the new GMT, I stick to the oldy

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