Vacheron Constantin 222 in Steel 4200H/222A Announcement and First Impressions

Jan 13, 2025,22:43 PM
 

Moderator Patrick_y shares his impressions on the new Vacheron Constantin 222 in steel.  4200H/222A model.  




It's a big day!  Celebrating Vacheron Constantin's 270th anniversary year!  We now have an early announcement starting the first round of celebrations for this anniversary year: a new Vacheron Constantin 222 in steel!  

Do you know how the 222 got its name?  

Designed in 1977, the 222 got its name because it was debuted on the 222 year of Vacheron Constantin's founding in 1755.  Since Vacheron Constantin has been in continuous operation since 1755, it is technically the oldest watch company in the world in continuous operation.  While there are other brands like Blancpain that are older, they have not been in continuous operation.  

In 2022, Vacheron Constantin relaunched the 222!  Another clever choice for the year!  

Year 2025 is now the 270th year of operation for Vacheron Constantin - and kicking off this anniversary year is the latest 222.  

Here are my impressions of the watch.  Don't worry, I'll be fair and you can expect to read compliments and critiques!


First!  The looks.  This is a good looking watch and Vacheron Constantin didn't tweak the design too much!  Originally designed by Jorg Hysek, this handsome watch originally had the movement fitted from the front and the bezel and crystal would screw into the watch.  It was an ingenious design that allowed the watch to have 120M water resistance back in 1977!  The bracelet is also constructed much better than the original.  I'd say it's a handsome looking watch and very true to the original 222 from the 1970s and 1980s!  Good job Vacheron Constantin!  The 37mm size might seem a little small on paper, but the watch does wear slightly larger than the size would suggest.  

That Vacheron Constantin Maltese Cross logo at 5 o'clock is in gold.  While Hysek's design is mostly brushed, there are some subtle polished surfaces to keep the design interesting.  Here, notice how clean and minimalist the dial is - the lack of a second hand really makes the dial look calmer.  I really like the flat blue, but I also wonder if they'll ever make a grey dial?  The original 222 in the 70s and 80s had grey, white, and black dials.  Notice, no lug holes on this side.  But on the 3 o'clock side of the case, there are lug holes for the bracelet.  


The 4200H model has a Geneva Seal on both the movement and on the case/bracelet.  Next to the Swiss Made, you'll notice there's a Vacheron Constantin Cross logo with 270 in the cross.  I do want to point out the taper of the bracelet.  The bracelet tapers from 26mm to 16mm.  That's a strong taper!  The bracelet also doesn't have any summer extension (aka quick adjustment).  



Moving on into the engine room.  The original watch came with the famed 1120 movement.  The 1120 movement is a little unusual by today's standards and the Vacheron Constantin 2455 movement has been fitted instead.  The details of this movement are quite nice - especially that special rotor that has the bezel design on it.  The 2455 also has one noted improvement over the 1120 - it has a true quick set date!  The 2455 also has hacking seconds, but considering there is no second hand, this is mostly moot.  If I were to be extremely critical of the movement, I would note one aspect - the short power reserve of 40 hours is unusually low for a modern movement.  But that's okay, it just means you have to wear it more often to keep it wound!  



The new watch has the movement loaded through the back - a contrast to the original model that came out in 1977, where the back was welded to the case and the front bezel and crystal were one unit that unscrewed from the case.  The original 222 had 120M water resistance and the new one only has 50M water resistance.  The standards for water resistance have changed the past 50 years, so this is not an apples to apples comparison.  Please feel free to wear your new 222 poolside!  


Reference

4200H/222A-B934

Calibre

2455/2
Developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding, 22K 3N yellow gold dedicated oscillating weight
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour)
194 components
27 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes
Date

Case
Stainless steel
37 mm diameter, 7.95 mm thick
18K yellow gold Maltese cross placed at 5 o'clock
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback           
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 5 bar (approx. 50 metres)

Dial
Blue
White gold polished Maltese cross applied to the dial
White gold hour-markers and hands highlighted with Super-LumiNova® (off-white during the day and lime green at night)                                                      

Bracelet
Stainless steel, vertical satin finished

Buckle
Stainless steel triple-blade folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques








One of our esteemed moderators ha owned an original 222 in steel for many many years.  He's known to have excellent taste and he seems to like them!  


Priced at a very reasonable $32,000.00 USD without tax and around 35.000 Euros, this watch is a great watch in the competitive landscape.  But it will be very difficult to obtain.  It's a very handsome watch on my wrist!  But without a doubt, it will be difficult to obtain!  Perfection takes a long time to make!  

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Comments: view entire thread 

Thank you for reading!

 
By: patrick_y : January 13th, 2025-23:12
I read the other ones and they all didn't have the technical details and the heritage details I was looking for. So I decided we had to have our own on WPS!

OOooh la la!

 
By: patrick_y : January 13th, 2025-23:12
I'd dog-sit that watch too! Very cool! Thanks for sharing the all important bezel removal shot! Are the gaskets between bezel and case standard sized or special sized?

Here’s how the split-stem crown came out

 
By: cazalea : January 14th, 2025-00:53
You couldn’t access the back to release the stem, so this 2-part item is released by prying with tweezers Then the movement can be lifted out after the front is unscrewed. Note the dirty bracelet before it was cleaned. Mike ...  

It's a truly superb timepiece.

 
By: InHavenPro : January 13th, 2025-22:54
VC is doing particularly good stuff in recent years, let's see if Monsieur Jerome Lambert can 'resurrect' JLC to its former glory, and in doing so make the landscape so much more interesting and compelling....

Many thanks for your thoughts, Patrick.

 
By: GWIS : January 13th, 2025-23:12
I think it’s a great looking watch, but a bit small for my tastes. I would still like to see one in the metal though. All the best, Jon

I wonder how it looks next to the Tissot PRX :))

 
By: Clueless_Collector : January 13th, 2025-23:17
I know, apples to oranges....but just for the fun of it....still don't understand the low PR nowadays, like PP 324s and 240s. ...  

A few things...

 
By: patrick_y : January 13th, 2025-23:54
1. This movement is much thinner than the Tissot. 2. Accuracy is a big deal at the high end watch brands. So it's more likely to be more accurate across the power reserve in all five positions! The Tissot is probably not inaccurate across the power reserv... 

You know I'm kidding, right?

 
By: Clueless_Collector : January 14th, 2025-00:10
Is it $32000/$725 > 40x good? Again, useless comparison but buyers of this 222 don't worry about this ) I will buy it if I can get one for its historical significance, but definitely out of the question since I don't own any VC.

Patrick, great job with this review!

 
By: Larrykelley11 : January 13th, 2025-23:26
I have a couple of questions: - hacking feature? - quick change for other bands, like the Overseas?

Thank you!

 
By: patrick_y : January 13th, 2025-23:56
Hacking. As mentioned above, the movement does hack. But with no seconds hand, it's kind of a moot point. Ideally, I'd probably rather not have a hacking feature since there's no second hand. No quick change. The design doesn't have other bands. Thus, nat... 

I really like the gold version. The way the date disc and the dial are more color matched harmonizes the look.

 
By: patrick_y : January 19th, 2025-19:45
The AP 16202 date disc matches the dial color. Whereas the 222 in steel doesn't. Hence, the 222 in gold has a more cohesive look. Sebks posted a comparison photo and the photo illustrates this more. I still like the 222 in steel very much despite the mism...  

I’ve been critical, just my opinion, of the Overseas. But the 222 I’ve always liked.

 
By: Jay (Eire) : January 14th, 2025-00:05
I think from a pure design perspective the 222 is far more pleasing to the eye. While it will not be something that I purchase I am eager to see them in the metal. A forum friend owns the gold version and it was quite appealing on the wrist, and pretty we... 

At last.

 
By: Boris : January 14th, 2025-00:12
This is very, very nice. But at this price point, why doesn’t it have an easy adjustment system at the clasp? Is it that hard to give Brogioli a call and ask them to make one?

An easy adjustment clasp would be too easy

 
By: cazalea : January 14th, 2025-00:51
Nail-breaking and gnashing of teeth are required, along with a bracelet tool, screwdriver or nearby dealer . I once asked a M-B factory guy why the US cars had 6000 mile service intervals versus the Euro cars with 20,000 km service (12,000 miles). Answer:... 

I am a fan of the overall aesthetic

 
By: TeutonicCarFan : January 14th, 2025-02:28
I do think I’d need to try it on the wrist. For me, I like a bracelet with some adjustment. Even if a few mm as I like my watches on the snug side and not sliding around (when no adjustment I need to size looser to accommodate for wrist swelling). Overall... 

Thank you for reading and commenting!

 
By: patrick_y : January 14th, 2025-17:33
The silkiness of the bracelet is not something easily described in words. So try it on if you can!

Yes...I know what brands like Patek have done...

 
By: mdg : January 14th, 2025-18:53
...and it makes zero sense. Give me a number that won't void my warranty. That's all I ask for. I'm assuming that if I wore a Patek 3940J in 80 feet of water (below their limit) and the case leaked, they would give me hell about it.

It's not a Patek thing. It's a whole Swiss Watch Industry thing is changing to a new standard that is easier for the consumer to understand.

 
By: patrick_y : January 14th, 2025-19:39
Now, when a watch says it can go 30 meters of depth, it can go that depth ONLY DURING THE WARRANTY PERIOD, for a certain amount of time. That's the new legal definition. So, theoretically, a scuba diver (scuba divers generally can go 18 meters deep or 30 ... 

Well. What do you think is reasonable?

 
By: patrick_y : January 14th, 2025-17:35
I think it should be priced closer to $25,000 like the Chopard Alpine Eagle XPS (the one with the salmon pink dial). Both are at the same level - Geneva Seal level. Vacheron Constantin is a higher brand so maybe a small premium for the Vacheron Constantin... 

All good with the 222 except for

 
By: Watches&Men : January 14th, 2025-04:34
The RRP seems a bit steep. I recognise the price is in line with the competition but it’s still inflated IMO. The lack of a micro adjustment (for now?) is a major design flaw. Given the ample time for R&D and taking reference of other integrated bracelets... 

I think the pricing is okay. Remember to have empathy for VC!

 
By: patrick_y : January 14th, 2025-17:40
Not that the pricing matters... Normal people won't be able to get one. And those who do get one would've paid more if they had to. But comparing the watch to the Chopard Alpine Eagle XPS - a watch in the similar Geneva Seal level and the case is also fai... 

I understand your perspectives and respect it

 
By: Watches&Men : January 15th, 2025-00:06
Which is why my earlier point of “I recognise the price is in line with the competition…” was mainly to state that VC took reference and set a price point based on how they position 222 vis a vis others

Yes you did mention that! Thank you!

 
By: patrick_y : January 15th, 2025-00:23
Oh yes. Market positioning. Let me give you a hypothetical scenario; VC didn't want to charge $40K because they thought it was too much. One employee said, "we don't need to make that much money, and we need there to be room for significant price growth i... 

Very nice write up, Patrick.

 
By: ChristianDK : January 14th, 2025-07:23
The execution looks impeccable. Especially for the bracelet which is half the watch in this model.. The front load of the original is much more interesting but I understand the challenges of being loyal to that concept. Like the pp 3700 vs 5711. Real worl... 

“Reasonable”

 
By: Bruno.M1 : January 14th, 2025-07:25
Might be the price AP, Patek, VC charge nowadays for that kind of watch But 35.000 euro is imo FAR from reasonable for a simple steel sportswatch That aside it is a nice watch … only 39 would be more my size

Yes, I too spat out my whisky reading this.

 
By: Boris : January 14th, 2025-10:33
Basically EUR 35k in 2025 gets you a watch with inferior specs than it did in 1977. I really like this 222, but major watch brands, VC included, are completely taking the p*ss on pricing. For what it proposes, this should be USD 20-25k, tops. I love the w... 

20-25K is too low when taking the competitive landscape into account...

 
By: patrick_y : January 14th, 2025-17:45
Not that the pricing matters... Normal people won't be able to get one. And those who do get one would've paid more if they had to. But comparing the watch to the Chopard Alpine Eagle XPS - a watch in the similar Geneva Seal level and the case is also fai... 

You're not looking at it with Empathy from VC's perspective.

 
By: patrick_y : January 14th, 2025-17:44
You're only looking at your own perspective. Remember... VC has to look at it from their perspective. Not that the pricing matters... Normal people won't be able to get one. And those who do get one would've paid more if they had to. But comparing the wat... 

That's like having an opinion and then saying you don't care what other people's opinions are...

 
By: patrick_y : January 15th, 2025-00:17
I wouldn't say you're wrong, as the brands have totally been awful, but I would say you're being a tiny, little-bit, just a tiny amount stubborn. Keep in mind, you shouldn't blame ONLY the brands! It's also the massive hordes of consumers whom during the ... 

Thank you for a great review, Patrick. IMO its VC version of The Emperor's New Clothes.

 
By: MilDiver : January 14th, 2025-07:32
It's always refreshing to see a review from one of our own, and not a copy-paste of the company communication or blind applause by those who got paid a lot like Revolution et al. The Emperor's New Clothes Apology but, I don't share the excitement and buzz... 

Lots of new Emperors in this world...

 
By: patrick_y : January 14th, 2025-17:52
And a lot of tailors who know how to appeal to a nouveau Emperor's vanity. This watch is not perfect. But it is fairly well done. I think you can tell I was really sad about the case construction is no longer a 2 piece. And I agree... The short power rese... 

Alwas appreciate your thoughts.

 
By: MilDiver : January 14th, 2025-19:16
Back to VC, I feel, this phenomenon is not only by them, "short cuts" on delivery, that is emphasized by their ambitious pricing. Thats my feel . Your Chopard example is great, I do love the AE XPS, hopefully will get mine by H1/25 (about 1 year on waitin...  

Wow! A true diver!

 
By: patrick_y : January 14th, 2025-20:24
Thanks for sharing this about yourself! You definitely see watches from a tool perspective! That's awesome! So glad to have you here on WatchProSite!

Thanks for your posts that I always study with great interest

 
By: Pelle_thorstenson : January 15th, 2025-06:42
Regarding the price of this watch I have 2 questions that I don't think has been discussed here. If you look at the price of the steel 222 and compare it to the price of a gold 222 what are your toughts? Looking at the pre-owned gold (37 mm, price) will t... 

I always say here that the delta between gold and steel is too much.

 
By: patrick_y : January 15th, 2025-17:00
It's not about costs... It's not about materials. It's not about craftsmanship. It's about a standard in the industry where gold watches simply cost much more than their steel ones. If the delta was only $10,000 or so or only 30% or so, then to the averag... 

Dial size ?

 
By: SingaporeMarc : January 15th, 2025-09:11
Thanks Patrick ☀️ Any idea what the dial size is? I’m guessing 28 mm … 🤔 🤝

Cool.

 
By: SingaporeMarc : January 15th, 2025-19:16
Would you have a contact at VC to confirm dial size? Thanks in advance Patrick. 🤝

Nope, I don't think I've got anyone I'm comfortable to ask this question. Likely an imprecise question too. Good luck!

 
By: patrick_y : January 16th, 2025-03:33
Imprecise question; I can see there are two possible interpretations of dial size; the diameter of the dial alone when the dial is removed from the movement, or the visible portion of the dial that's visible once the dial is cased. I presume you mean the ... 

Thanks for the question clarification

 
By: SingaporeMarc : January 16th, 2025-05:04
Yes, I meant the visible portion of the dial in the case. I’m curious to know as some have expressed that the dial seems a bit small. I’m wondering if this is because of the contrast of the blue dial to the steel case (which is less obvious on the full go... 

Case not too different from original

 
By: Tick Talk : January 15th, 2025-17:44
Although the movement is accessed from the back with the new version, the original also had a removable case back. It could be pressed out from the front once the movement was de-cased. I never opened mine up but from looking at this photo it appears the ...  

Interesting! Thank you for sharing!!!

 
By: patrick_y : January 15th, 2025-19:14
I didn't know that the back could be pressed out. But I presumed it could since it looked like another piece in the photos.

Merci!

 
By: patrick_y : January 18th, 2025-21:37
I hope we can do a real review of it... Not that we need more marketing for a watch that will be very hard to obtain.

I hope so too. I tried the 222 on friday.

 
By: Ping.Timeout : January 19th, 2025-01:51
Nice watch and compared it with the yellow gold sibling. The blue dial is really nice but the white date disc doesn’t seem to blend with the blue. In my opinion, the yellow gold looks more understated. I also suspect the steel will be hyped up a bit given... 

That's a surprise. There aren't lots of Vacheron Constantin timepieces worn in Singapore?

 
By: patrick_y : January 19th, 2025-19:47
I see a lot of Vacheron Constantin in the wild wherever I go. I have a few friends whom are not watch people whose primary watch is a VC too.

Thank you for sharing your thoughts!

 
By: patrick_y : January 19th, 2025-19:51
I do like the harmony of the dial on the yellow gold. And I still like the steel version even with the mis-matched date disc. But I wonder if it were a color matched date disc if it'd work better. I think it's definitely a potential! In Sebks' photo, the ...  

Yes! Good observation!

 
By: patrick_y : January 20th, 2025-18:50
Everything with a darker color will look smaller. Take a black Rimowa suitcase and a silver Rimowa suitcase of the same size, and the Black one will look smaller. Also, most things with a sharp contrast will look smaller. Take a suitcase that's all gold, ...