A few weeks ago
I offered you to ask questions to Patek Philippe. Obviously you can always ask.
You can easily ask by email any company. As we say in my country (and probably
in yours too) you can always ask, only answers are indiscreet.
Don't
wait for incredible revelations there! You know Patek Philippe and the kind of
discreet company it is.
I finally had
the pleasure to visit the Patek Philippe manufacture this month. I just took
the opportunity to deliver your questions and try to receive answers for you,
knowing obviously by advance that some of your questions could only get
indiscreet answers!
On top of this
subject on your questions, I'll try to share with you in the next weeks
and months aspects of what is behind the Patek Philippe Seal.
For now
let's have a look at your questions. You asked about the number of pieces
of the very much looked after enamel dial worldtime 5131. I of course got no
answer! I can just say that the number of 5131 produced is in no way linked to
the number of 5130. The 5131 is rare obviously only because of the long,
delicate and complicated work done on the dial.
Regarding the
life expectancy of this reference nothing is defined yet. Patek Philippe renews
its collections quite regularly but some references can also stay for nearly
decades unchanged in the catalog.
I can add that
the 5131J is not discontinued. Some of you may have noticed that it is indeed
pictured in the latest 2009-2010 Patek Philippe catalog.
Regarding this
same reference 5131, you also asked about the removal of Caracas from the dials. Indeed the Venezuelan
government changed the country time zone nearly two years ago. So far Patek
Philippe has traditionally used some traditional locations as reference for
time zones and they apparently don't feel the need to remove Caracas. Does anybody
have an idea if this time zone change by Venezuela is definitive either?
Someone also
asked if the simpler dual time zone 5134 would be replaced. The only answer is
that we can imagine that such a watch would come back today (in a new form of
course). This is a complication that apparently Patek Philippe doesn't
intend to give up.
Another
question was about necessity of polishing during services. Easy answer for this
one as you had already guessed. Indeed it is possible to specify that the case
may not be polished during service. Regarding the means used to polish they are
traditional in fact (see pic above). Patek Philippe doesn't use laser
welding techniques during servicing (or initial production).
Polishing is
still one of the mainly hand operated or controlled operations at Patek
Philippe. The case polishing of a 5970P takes up to 6 hours of work.
I'm a
great fan of hacking watches. I'm apparently not alone as it was the
subject of several questions. Indeed Patek Philippe is so far not the best
brand on that side since it seems that the 5959 split second chronograph is the
only current Patek Philippe watch with a stop second. In fact I was told that
when the 5959 calibre was developed Mr Philippe Stern said that it was a useful
function. Consequently we can hope to see the coming Patek Philippe calibres hacking
(but it's just a guess or hope) !
Regarding the
existing calibres a hacking function will not be added as it is too complicated
and it would be preferable to develop new specific calibres.
To some extent
we could also consider that the 5960 chronograph calibre is also hacking as the
central seconds hand of the chronograph can also be used as a permanently
running second. You can reset it easily with the flyback function when the
minute hand is aligned with a minute marker, or looking at a time reference.
As a
consequence of the question about hacking function, some also asked about the
relevance of claiming about accuracy without a stop second. Obviously if you
aim to have your watch set at the second on a reference it is hard without a
hacking function. Then if you just want to have minimal deviation and wear a
watch that keeps good time, in such a watch the absence of a hacking function
is not essential as the main point is to avoid to have to reset it too often.
We will discuss
about the Patek Philippe Seal in the months to come and it will be the
opportunity to look more at this accuracy subject. We didn't hear about
it so far, until the launch of the seal, but Patek Philippe obviously controls
the accuracy of all watches produced, to a standard stricter than the COSC.
You asked if
Patek Philippe is considering making watches with a larger case. In fact the
internal rule is that the size should be dictated by the housed calibre.
Considering that another rule states that the calibre should be as thin and
small as possible, you can conclude that Patek Philippe is not heading towards
large watches.
Looking at the
5959 below and its 33.2 mm
case, you see one extreme and perfect interpretation of the principles.
Certainly the as-much revered 5070 is the perfect example of the contrary since
the CH 27-70 calibre of the 5070 measures 27.5 by 5.57 mm and the CHR 27-525
PS of the 5959 measures 27.3 by 5.25
mm, so close dimensions inside and extremes outside!
The 5960 is
more coherent to the rule with its 33 by 7.68 mm calibre CH 28-520
IRM QA 24h. But we should not forget that the 5070 was launched at a time when
large watches where just getting trendy and perhaps Patek Philippe wanted to
test this market?
So the current
answer from Patek Philippe is that they see the market now at 39 to 40 mm and not 42 like for the
5070.
It brings me to
another question about the potential launch of a new manual wind simple
chronograph calibre. Yes you know which one!
The answer
I've got is a confirmation that such calibre is in the pipe!
"There are projects"!
Don't ask
me more as I got no other precision and just have my opinion!
I can just add
perhaps, to answer another question about the possible use of the automatic
chrono calibre to make a classical two counters chrono, that it is not possible
to transform it into such chronograph with counters at 3 and 9. The way it is
conceived with the annual calendar at 12 doesn't allow to transform
it. Consequently we can suppose that a manual wind chronograph could well be a
totally new design.
A question was
also about a possible minute repeater chronograph. In fact Patek Philippe
already produced one unique piece reference 3615 in the early 80s.
Still it is admitted that the current range misses some products and the
will is to have the most complete collection……
On the contrary
there is no "two minute" repeater in the projects, as it was also
asked.
There's
apparently no plan either to develop a bigger time only manual movement as the
current 215 seems large enough to house what Patek Philippe wants to see
inside.
Who knows?
Perhaps Mr Stern will want to add a hacking function and that will lead to a
larger calibre?
Again we will
discuss later about the Patek Philippe Seal but I can already answer that the
Standards are not intended to be publicly revealed, for several reasons like
the fact that they can evolve or simply that they obviously include and sum up
Patek Philippe's own production standards and Patek Philippe
doesn't want to give such information.
The Patek
Philippe Seal is so much larger in its content and objectives than the Geneva
Seal that it is anyway not possible to summarize it on a sheet of paper like
the Geneva Seal.
Patek Philippe
does not intend to compare its Seal with others like the Qualite Fleurier Seal
(another question). The Patek Philippe Seal describes what Patek Philippe
wishes to do and consequently does, so it concerns specifically Patek Philippe.
Others can make other choices and it is respected by Patek Philippe.
Someone asked
about a new supercomplication that would surpass the calibre 89? In fact Patek
Philippe is still finishing to produce the Star Calibre series. The men
who were in charge of the Calibre 89 and the Star Calibre projects are still
working for Patek Philippe, so you can imagine the creative potential…..
These two
extreme projects have apparently learnt a lot to Patek Philippe for the making
of some wrist watches, the Sky Moon and the Celestial being two examples.
Let's say that 2014 will mark another important anniversary for the
company…..
We can also
remember that in the last years instead of such extreme projects we have seen
other innovations like the instantaneous perpetual calendar in the 5207, and
more importantly the use of new materials like Silinvar in the references 5250,
5350 and 5450. Patek Philippe states that they do not wish to show off, but
want to improve their watches. They have seen the Patek Philippe Advanced
Series to some extent as a revolutionary move, and not just an evolution.
Respecting what they see as the best principles of Horology, they want to apply
measurable improvements and only when they bring a more reliable watch. The "New
Technology" team who worked on the Advanced Series is certainly working
on something else…..
And not just on
the possible use of A/R coatings that were apparently tested on some Nautilus watches
but who don't seem necessary technically (for readability reasons)
neither wished aesthetically. The astronomical watches may be an exception.
I will finish
with two questions related to these exceptional pieces.
You asked if
Patek Philippe is still buying watches for the Patek Philippe
Museum. The answer is
yes, even if many collections now seem complete. In fact Mr Philippe Stern
still decides if he wants to add a missing piece to his collection and he
apparently misses some. I think they recently bought a pilot's watch that
was auctioned this spring for instance.
Then all of you
who have patiently built a strong Patek Philippe collection and now wish
to consider ordering a Grand Complication piece, can be pleased to know that
indeed Patek Philippe aims at keeping tabs of who the loyal customers are. Of
course that doesn't mean that they can produce enough to offer full
availability to all of such patient collectors. But let's say that those
who don't order don't get served!
I hope you
enjoyed these answers and have read them carefully as I tried to make a
difference between the answers I got and my opinions.
Please let me thank Mrs Steele and Mr Jaquet at Patek Philippe for their hospitality.
Now let's
discuss.
Cheers
Dje