Audemars Piguet

Introducing: CODE 11.59 By Audemars Piguet (VIDEO) https:// www.hodinkee.com g And we have a new integrated column wheel chronograph at last Maybe it will see it’s way to the RO line later

. . . and there's much to digest: 13 models, 6 movements including 3 that are new from the ground up. As with all things AP, it's best not to rush to judgment. But I'll say this right now, the case and lug design are exceptional. BTW, all models are 41mm ... 

Seems like AP focused all their creativity in the case and had nothing in mind for the dials. Why are they considered as holy trinity again?

What all the fanfare in their teaser campaign was about. Why did their suppliers told them they were crazy? Why did they have to push the limits of watchmaking? What was all the struggle and the resulting 'Eureka!' moments for? I was hoping we would see s... 

...AP should accept, like Panerai with the Luminor and Radiomir, the Royal Oak and RO Offshore is really their only offering of interest. Their dial design with the date at 4.30 is somewhat lacking against others high end brands in the price point.

These watches are going to be very desired by athletes and celebs. Production is very limited initially. They will become a thing to have, and it will spread from there. I can imagine a steel version on a rubber strap that would be very appealing

But how the hell the chrono movement is amazing? I mean they say they're driven by complications and the first in-house chrono that came in 2019 (!) looks like some 70s chronograph. I love watchmaking before any brand and have huuugee respect for AP; that... 

Ask yourself who else does that?

Screenshot from the video on Hodinkee. ...  

..it looks like the minute counter is indeed progressing linearly. Not only it doesn't jump instantaneously, but not even semi-instantaneously a la Primero, Piguet, Valjoux 7750, etc.

The promotional materials suggest otherwise by saying it’s a jumping minute chronograph. Also, while I suspect that this line will be very popular with athletes and celebs (and that may generate sales) the market trend these days really favors steel sport... 

They had 20 years to respond to the Datograph and clearly decided it wasn't worth it.

In construction and finishing I see it much more as an answer to the Rolex 4130, JLC 751, and as a way to replace the FP 1185 with something they can really call “in-house.” What do you think?

But for now the only reason the CEO mentions for creating the new chrono caliber is because people wouldn't stop bugging him for it. So yes, now they can put this new movement in their chrono models and say 100% in-house.

AP talks about instantaneous date jump and not counter hands

The only thing of significance here for me is the introduction of the new chronograph movement, which is LONG overdue. Unfortunately I think the new watch design is unattractive and the dial gives it the look of a cheap fashion watch. I'm a big fan of AP ... 

The dial design is very boring. Sorry AP.

Daniel Wellington with a nice case and movement.

I even thought it was a fake news at the beginning.... It looks like a Daniel wellington++... Anyway hopefully others will be more tolerant than me on their new line. For me I’ll stick to the RO Kev

If they are lucky, that will be all they will sell. They should stick to what they do best; RO.

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From what I've read, and seen in picture and video, there's much to like. I think the case is interesting, and appealing. The work/thought on the crystal is a nice addition. They have, whether they are good enough or not, introduced a bunch of new calibre... 

I expect the negativity here, that is what many new members bring. We are far from the old days. We can all have our own opinions, but to call something like this "garbage", it is laughable. "Consider the source", one of my Dad's favorite expressions. Bac... 

Reactions to releases like this make me want to turn my phone off for the duration of SIHH. It’s so easy for people to be negative on social media about a release like this with their own objective taste in watches, not to mention the majority of those ba... 

They state it themselves, they want to dare and not stand still. I applaud the moxie. How easy would it be for this brand to only sell Royal Oaks and Royal Oak Offshores? This new collection excites me. Again, I see oodles of opportunity. And AP does pay ... 

It just confirms that they're too dependant on that particular line. Not exactly what I'd describe as "pushing forward and trying". Also the marketing was really awkward, which created lots of the negativity. The limited perpetual calender with the aventu... 

The posts of "oh AP is finished as a brand/these watches are just like [insert cheap brand]/woe is me" are everywhere.

The RO design cue, I am 100% good with. It was in my opinion an nicely thought out way to do this. The Royal Oak IS their brand right now whether they or we like it and so I think (especially when it's a positive, which the RO clearly is) the. use it, don... 

He literally said they wanted to push forward and show that they're not just Royal Oak, yet the case band includes the Royal Oak. To say it in the words of Steve Hallock: "AP tried to look innovative without innovating, to take no risk.". Sometimes it's b... 

It's replacing the Jules Audemars Line of dress watch

Whether the result is all everybody expected - well looking at the responses, probably not. Yet as you say it’s early days and not all buyers are collectors - meaning tastes may differ. I feel they can be applauded for keeping the cases reasonably sized a... 

Also to me, the largest and most crucial knowledge gap that many of us on these forums have is the understanding of the average buyer for these brands. Purists won't make or break these watches.

But that's clearly not a factor for the broader watch buying public as every brand is telling us people want larger. Ummm, except Panerai who are being told by those people that they want smaller!!!

But if I could design my own chronograph dial? Absolutely! BTW, have you seen the Supersonnerie? I would take that as is, stunning.

Not to my taste, but a cool design exercise. When it comes to RO chronographs my preference would be an old one. With the square indexes. But those hexagon crown and pushers remain an ergonomic nightmare. Especially when one has Sasquatch hands/fingers......  

We had a good thread recently on the 39mm ROC collection. How interesting to see AP offer 38mm this year. But still without a spectacular dial like the older ones. ...  

Michael, has there ever been this much interaction with a single post in such a short period of time?

I'll let you search, if you care to

I think most people only have issues with the dials, esp the chrono and time only dials, with their uncanny resemblance to "undesirable" brands such as DW or MVNT etc.. ( aka mall watches ). This can be easily fixed in future releases. The case for one ap... 

Chrono very nice looking... Let's wait a bit and see... Best, Nicolas

Everyone has to get on record, many need to be the attention-getter and enjoy negativity. In the early days of thePuristS, most every name in this thread was not here, and the general spirit was very different. But, everyone is entitled to an opinion, and... 

.....this is so so much worse in many respects than VC’s '56 moment' or PP's new 24. Aesthetic opinions vary, and I have not seen these in the flesh……but one has to only look at a dial here and swallow back the bile. What are AP thinking? These have nothi... 

I agree that they missed an opportunity by burying this news in the launch of this collection, but perhaps they didn't want to rehash the fact that they waited this long to introduce a chronograph. Design aside, which I think could become something cool, ... 

I see on hodinkee, the tourbillon finishing is good, right? ...  

Yes, to my eye the finishing on the Tourbillon is very good. While anglage is not the totality if finishing, it does give some idea of what’s going on. In this case I see nice anglage and corners. If course, this is an AP R&P movement and and is even ... 

Everyone loves a simple 12-3-6-9 dial. Let's make a dress watch with lacquered dial and those arabics. But don't forget, it must be big diameter case, thick case, have no water resistance AND it must have a hole punched in the dial for a date, because I h... 

Its been fun.....

Their plans were that this line would be, at best, 20% of sales, which would take time to achieve. In spite of the cries of watch nerds, there is a lot potential here. So, no I don't think he'll be resigning.

numerals ,how much dumped into the R&D ?The lugs are fine ,maybe tge new chrono will fit into a ROO case otherwise all the efforts were wasted.

being put into the Royal Oak?

This line is clearly not meant to be a common classic watch line. The case diameter and thickness make it more a sporty dress watch line. Given the popularity of sports/sporty watches, this might prove to be a clever move even though a lot of people here ... 

The chrono looks busy... I can imagine the case is gorgeous but... the dial? Meh. Not departing from the mundane-ordinary. The time /date looks like a 'whatever' JLC... (case probably inanely gorgeous, but crucially --dial-- whatever... shocked to see suc... 

...last they got into enamel dials. Wonder if all this is done completely in-house. Case, dials, x2 curved crystals, crowns, calibres all are new development.

Doesn’t really look special.