Tim_M
1274
Masterful! I enjoyed every word
Apr 15, 2018,14:09 PM
This is the kind of post that sets PuristS Pro apart! Your analysis is spot-on, and I felt the same sensations when I saw the watch. It was entertaining to read your extended impressions of the watch that we saw together too briefly in Geneva.
For my money, the Aerostiers Metiers d'Art was the sensation of Vacheron's 2018, but this Traditionnelle Tourbillon ran a dead heat with the "balloon series." Particularly in its Excellence Platine iteration, this watch embodies the best of Vacheron Constantin. In fact, between this model and the Metiers d'Art novelties, I would say that Vacheron has never been stronger from a pure-product standpoint.
Too many pundits and knee-jerk commentators decried the one non-Poincon/customer caliber model in the FiftySix collection as though it was the fall of Rome, but all-manufacture movements and universal Geneva Hallmarks were never part of Vacheron's historic identity. The mid-century Vacheron-at-apex watches principally were modified JLC calibers in cases built for VC by specialist Geneva guilds... all I know is that during the 1940s, 50s, and 60, Vacheron wasn't making watches like the Aerostiers and Traditionnelle tourbillon of 2018.
Also, for all the talk of Vacheron's weakness relative to AP, for example, where is AP's willingness to plow huge effort into new styles, dress models, and caliber families? I saw a ton of Royal Oaks at SIHH, and that's not exactly a reach for AP.
Lange was in the same boat as Vacheron; the firm gets called out for poor resale and stagnant public image, but the Triple Split and Saxonia Thin Blue Copper were sensational!
Patek put a couple of existing pieces together to make a Nautilus perpetual and an Aquanaut chronograph... let's reserve big respect only for those who dare. Well done Vacheron... and Patrick!
Best,
Tim