Patek Philippe

Mark in Paris
[Purist]
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First, welcome on PuristSPro Yegor

and especially on our Patek forum.

This is a nice project with a very interesting budget.

I think that the Patek cases are all comfortable, thanks to the lugs and caseback design. No real problem on that level, except if platinum watches are too heavy for you. In this case of course avoid Pt material for bigger references.

As for the dressy watch, you're talking about, it seems that you allow yourself to choose thicker cases as well as you selected the 5960 and like the 5905 too.

I think that any of your choices are good and that it will mainly depend on your own taste (dial colors, hands shapes, font etc...).

It is very hard to tell as the list meeting your creteria will be very long...

5170G with silver dial is fantastic but the more casual new black dial is maybe more modern (still in your dressy list). Most interesting and beautiful movement of your selection (manual, not auto).

The 5960 in gold or Pt (discontinued officially) are dressy from your definition but quite too sporty to be called so, I think (except the Pt with black dial). The current available 5960, the steel version is much sportier and will not be as suitable with suits as a dressier gold or Pt model which have a dial layout in a more classical look whereas the steel version has a contrasted white dial with drakened hands and markers with red elements. And it is sold in steel with bracelet only.

So, I finally come to your last choice; the 5140 (a perpetual calendar): it is, to me, the real dressy watch from the 3 you picked, especially because thinner, more sober and discreet with a more classical case's shape (more due to the dimensions rather than to the shape). You will step up in complication, from AC to PC, with still a change of dial. The Con would be that you don't change enough as a 5036 remain close to a 5140 is terms of general aesthetics.


If I could suggest several references to have a look at:

- the 5496 (also Perpetual Calendar): it is another kind of case shape but it touches the very high end of your budget from what I understand.
- the 5205 G or R seem to be (to be verified) thinner than 5960: however it is still an Annual calendar, even if more affordable.
- The Nautilus line can offer a nice dressy chic watch with the 5711 or 5712, especially with the strap (the bracelet is one of Patek's best finishing work but strap will be dressier and more refined).
- and don't forget the 3940 and 5110 World Time, in second hand (predecessors of repectively 5140 and 5130 World Time) and so beautiful: perfect classics.

I remained in the complicated ones (except for the 5711) as you had the AC already but the 2 or 3 hands (and especialy the 5227) are beautiful dressy models to consider (and will leave high budget for other watches btw): 5227, 5296, some 6000...

This is nearly not a selection but making one is taking my tastes into account. I tried on the contrary to remain open for you.

There is no watch there that will be a mistake.

Don't hesitate to ask for advice with your final top 3 for instance but, even if we have our tastes, you are the one who is going to wear it finally of course.

Cheers, Mark

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This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2015-11-22 15:56:53