Mach
5117
Some live shots of Omega’s new Constellation Observatory Collection . . .
I’ve been patiently - or more appropriately, impatiently—waiting for Omega to revisit their Constellation line with a true re-edition or tribute piece. It always felt like a matter of when, not if.
So, I was genuinely excited on Thursday morning when I saw the press releases on the unveiling of this new Constellation Observatory collection across the various watch media sites, followed by Emmanuel’s (quattro) excellent write-up here.
That excitement, however, quickly faded.
First the case thickness gave me pause. Then came the MSRP—which, frankly, shocked me!🤬 Still, I held off judgment until I could see them in the flesh.
Yesterday afternoon, I finally did during a visit to the local OB:
There’s a lot to like. The pie-pan dial is beautifully executed, especially with the guilloché pattern along the outer edge—it really captures the spirit of vintage Omega Constellation models:
I was particularly drawn to the black dial variant—the polished ceramic looks fantastic—but it was disappointing to see it lacks the guilloché detailing found on the other versions. That omission makes it feel slightly less special.
At 39.4mm in diameter and 12.23mm thick, I can’t help but feel this is on the larger side for a dress-oriented piece. It comes across as a compromise rather than a deliberate design choice—neither truly vintage-inspired in size nor fully modern in presence.
The lugs sat awkwardly high off my wrist, not flushed:
Of course, Omega is highlighting that this is the first two-handed watch to achieve Master Chronometer certification. While that’s technically impressive, I’m not convinced it adds meaningful value in this context. Chronometer certification is fundamentally about precision timekeeping —but without a seconds hand, how practical is that precision to the wearer?
All in all, this feels like it could have been a home run—but instead lands as a solid line drive.
There are undeniably beautiful elements here, but for me, not enough to justify the price. I would have preferred to see more emphasis on classic dress watch proportions—a slightly smaller case and reduced thickness would have gone a long way.
Curious to hear what others think.🤔
Vintage
Explore Dr No's quest for the rare Omega ref. OJ 2518 and its correct crown. A deep dive into vintage Omega collecting, part scarcity, and expert restoration.
30 replies4314 views
Review
Explore a collector's 'on-the-wrist' review of the Omega Aqua Terra Teck Annual Calendar. Discover insights on its design, wearability, and Caliber 8601 performance.
61 replies39489 views
Vintage
Explore the restoration of a 1954 Omega Constellation Caliber 354. Learn about gold-capped cases, solid gold bezels, and preservation tips for vintage Omega watches.
4 replies991 views
Service
Follow G99's 1964 Omega Constellation redial correction, highlighting vintage watch restoration, community expertise, and the pursuit of dial accuracy.
30 replies3263 views
Independents
Follow Soyuz's Grandrécif project, transforming vintage FE4612 movements into unique skin diver watches. A story of passion, handcrafting, and independent watchmaking.
14 replies4851 views
Vintage
Aroma's detailed analysis of an Omega Constellation Ref. 2652 with Caliber 352 bumper movement. Learn about vintage watch buying risks and authenticity checks.
16 replies4083 views
Some live shots of Omega’s new Constellation Observatory Collection . . .
I’ve been patiently - or more appropriately, impatiently — waiting for Omega to revisit their Constellation line with a true re-edition or tribute piece. It always felt like a matter of when , not if . So, I was genuinely excited on Thursday morning when ...
It’s a shame. I love the Omega brand in principle. I have a few Omega but I have been wanting to buy a new one for a few years now. But they don’t want me to. Omega keeps…
…adding where shouldn’t (size: circumference and height), and removing where they shouldn’t (date window). Exactly the case with the new model. Too bad because I like the steel with gold pointers and indexes. Now, the thin Rolex Land Dweller is great. ...
Like you, I absolutely love Omega!
I want them to exceed. However, I feel they trying to make everyone happy with these compromises, which in the end, only pushes consumers away. Thanks for chiming in, my friend!🥂
Same as you, when released, i tough this will be my first modern Omega!
Then, when I saw the luck of seconds hand, it was full stop. As you said, totally pointless the certification, without a way to adjusted and enjoy it. I also find the 39mm to be large and the 12.2mm thickness, that’s Rolex Submariner territory(300m water ...
They were so close on this one!
Don’t get me wrong, I may still go for the black dial. But, more than likely, it will be from an AD at a negotiated discount. Appreciate your thoughts, my friend!🥂
Yes, these are beautiful and classical timepieces!
I was hoping to see the platinum iteration. Granted, I have no intention of buying it but would love to see that strap! Thanks for your feedback, my friend!🥂
For me it comes down to these two…
As far as I know all the new movements are METAS so I’m not sure what the point is? I definitely think I will be purchasing one or the other. As far as I’m concerned (ridiculous name aside) the Land Dweller is a Datejust re-tread. Thinner is always better...
Not Datejust, Oysterquarz! It should be called: City-Dweller but who cares…?
The name is the last thing I care when I decide on a watch, on the other hand, this Constellation is sadly the ruined version of the original(at least for me), regardless of how they call it…
Yes and no…
If every time I stare down at my wrist and think: what a stupid name …it kinda kills it for me…🤷🏻♂️
You are to philosophical:)
A Rolex, you put on the wrist and forget about it for twenty years(unless you get mugged). Jokes aside, I respect your opinion!
They had the green dial, but these were the three that had my interest!
I still may go after the black dial iteration one of these days. Perhaps, they will offer a smaller iteration in the future!🤞 Looking forward to seeing your final decision! Thanks for your thoughts, my friend!🥂
They may have had this but I didn’t see one in display.
I was hoping to see the platinum iteration just for the sake of seeing that gorgeous strap!😍
I like the simplicity of the black dial
I'm not sure why, but I think the black colorway looks great as is. I'm glad there is one available without the guilloche for thsoe who want a more reserved look. The guilloche is lovely but I think at times I would feel like its a little too busy, on a d...
It is stunning!
Initially, I was confused why there was a premium on this one. Then, I realized it was for the polished ceramic dial. In the end, you like it despite not knowing why! That’s okay. Thanks for expressing your thoughts, my friend!🥂
Thanks a lot for this very informative and interesting report.
I think I really agree with you on all counts, here. I’m just not personally upset by the absence of a seconds hand even if I understand why it is problematic. Anyway, with these proportions and an automatic movement, I know this line isn’t for me. Thank ...
Thanks for your detailed report as well, Emmanuel!
These would have been great with a manual movement and a smaller case size. Thanks for your input!🥂
39.4mm in diameter and 12.23mm thick reeks of a statistically calculated, focus group outcome
Omega doesn't have the guts to make a 36-37mm men's watch, unfortunately
That may be true, but many of their consumers must be willing to give smaller sized timepieces a try!
IMHO many are not even willing to give a 36-37mm watch a try. They may be quite surprised once they do!🤷 Thanks for your thoughts, my friend!🥂
There are some great vintage Omega
That said, this is a brand that just has so many lines. The only thing lacking is a thru line.
So, very true! Unfortunately, I’ve never had the confidence to go after vintage pieces.
This is why I typically seek out re-edition pieces. Appreciate your comments, my friend!🥂
Great review
Couldn't agree more, on all counts. Nice looking but a bit too big for average sized wrists, the lugs sit high, and no seconds hand, rendering the precision less meaningful.
Thanks for the insightful pictures and report! 🙏🏻
Honestly, my assumptions behind the lines seeing and reading all of the sales write-ups of Fratello, Monochrom etc., became true with your (and Quattro’s) live post here! It could have become a home-run for Omega, given the fantastic heritage of pan-pie a...
You’re welcome, Markus!
As anyone who knows me - I love Omega and want them to succeed! I was so excited on Thursday morning, but perhaps my expectations were too stringent!🤷 Thanks for your input, my friend!🥂
Thank you for the report and photos.
I reacted to the size (especially thickness) and lack of seconds hand (with so much effort in the precision). With your photos I will add the lugs. They look good in, but doesn't seem to fit nicely to the wrist. And - of course - the MSRP; especially for ...
You’re welcome, my friend!
I would love to see the data that all brands utilize when making these critical decisions on new collections. More importantly, how many of these individuals in focus groups are truly passionate collectors! Appreciate your thoughts!🥂
I read the Hodinkee article with great interest this morning.
At first glance I found it reminiscent of the original Genta design. I don’t mind the lack of seconds hand either. Even the dimensions, even though not ideal, are acceptable. But the price of these is absolutely ludicrous.
Appreciate your thoughts, Gary!
Perhaps, once they arrive at ADs, you can negotiate on pricing and one can join your collection!🤷 Thanks for sharing your opinion!🥂
Manual winding when the entire history of Constellation . . .
. . . is filled with automatics? An automatic movement is as emblematic of the Constellation line as manual winding is of the Railmaster. Lack of a seconds hand is another matter altogether. Best, Art
Oddly enough, there was a two-handed Constellation in the distant past . . .
. . . powered by a cal 712 automatic movement. I still can't get over a chronometer without a seconds hand, though.
I agree, the lack of the guilloche on the black dial variant is a lost opportunity.
And the way the lugs hover is curious…perhaps due to larger size 🤔. The price is not surprising since this is what all brands have unfortunately been doing, so no comment.
Unfortunately, this is the new trend! But at some point, they can’t expect consumers to simply open their wallets!
Regarding the way the lugs hover, it may possibly be attributed to the strap being new and stiff.🤷 Thanks for sharing your thoughts, my friend!🥂
Agreed on all points
As is often the case, Omega gets so close but ultimately has compromises in details that keep me away. I find these at first glance very appealing, however.
So very close to perfection, David!
I guess we can both save our funds for another Chopard acquisition!😉 Hope all is well. Thanks for sharing your thoughts!🥂
Thanks for the reviews and nice test wear photos 🙏🏻
I’m not sure if I will ever buy another Omega at retail.
You’re welcome, Raymond!
😆 I know from first-hand experience once can negotiate the prices at ADs. Perhaps, Omega knows that as well and that’s built into their pricing model. Thanks for your input!🥂
Not a bad effort
But not a home run either. Pricing is completely laughable, especially for the gold versions.
Perhaps future iterations will lead to that home run!🤷
Appreciate your thoughts, my friend!🥂
Excellent report!
Thank you for this brilliant report and pictures! I agree with all your comments. It looks a bit too large indeed. I also find the gap between the case and the strap, due to the long lugs, a bit odd. The prices for the precious metal models (more than e.g...
You’re welcome, my friend!
Hopefully, you will have an opportunity to see one in the flesh relatively soon!🤞
My initial reaction to the new Constellation was . . .
. . . skeptical on account of it being a two-hander. Now I'm leaning towards it being oversized as well. Thanks very much for sharing images and your thoughts, Mach! Art
You’re welcome, Art!
Looking forward to seeing your pictures once you have an to visit the OB! Thanks for sharing your thoughts!🥂
Thanks for this initial look
Definitely look interesting &. For me the stand out is black dial in a steel case. Think I need to have a look, especially after your comments on the lugs. & The pricing I think is challenging, if you like one it might be worth waiting & seeing what the s...
Thinking more about the lugs sitting high off my wrist, the strap may have been quite stiff.
But I always recommend seeing a piece in the flesh to truly assess and make a final decision! Appreciate you sharing your thoughts!🥂
Especially when comparing pricing!
Looking forward to hearing your thoughts once you see it in the flesh!🥂