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Overview of the H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendars
The H. Moser & Cie. brand, named after Heinrich Moser (1805-1874), a Schaffhausen-born watchmaker, presented its first contemporary watch at the end of 2005 to mark the 200th anniversary of its founder’s birth.
Heinrich Moser, the Moser Family Museum Charlottenfels near Schaffhausen & the factory with a living quarters built for Heinrich Moser in Le Locle by Jean & Eugène Crivelli. (credit: H. Moser & Cie)
This first watch was the Perpetual 1, later renamed the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar (around 2012), and it immediately won the 2006 GPHG Complicated Watch Prize.
On the dial, the Perpetual Calendar complication was only discernable as the large date and the small arrow hand for the month, performing one rotation per year, taking over the 12-hour indication to show the 12 months.
Rose gold ref. 341.501-004, winner of the GPHG Complicated Watch Prize in 2006
The watch was powered by caliber HMC341conceived in collaboration with Andreas Strehler. The main features of this hand-wound movement were:
- A perpetual calendar capable of adjustment both forwards and backwards.
- A patented “Flash Calendar” display, jumping directly from the end of the current month to the first day of the following month without indicating any invalid days.
- A patented “Double Pull Crown” mechanism, ensuring reliable setting of the crown to the correct position (date or hour adjustment).
- A leap year indicator located on the back.
- A dual spring barrel with a power reserve of at least seven days.
- Escape wheel and pallets designed in solid gold.
- An interchangeable escapement module for enhanced ease of servicing.
The three-part case measured 40.8 x 11.1 mm and featured:
- Scalloped lugs.
- A discreetly convex sapphire glass and a curved sapphire display back.
- A small indent under the conical signed crow, making it easier to pull the crown out.
Finally, the watch was equipped with a folding clasp.
credit: European Watch Company
Over the years, many different variants of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar were made.
And the Perpetual Calendar complication was introduced in the three other lines of the brand: Pioneer, Streamliner & Heritage.
Let’s have an extensive look in the following order:
- Section A : ENDEAVOUR
- Section B : PIONEER
- Section C : STREAMLINER
- Section D : HERITAGE
A/ ENDEAVOUR PERPETUAL CALENDARS
credit: Mr. Watchley
credit: s.song
credit: Sjx
credit: a blog to watch
credit: professional watches
credit: cee can
credit: moser
credit: bachmann & scher
credit: subdial
credit: @iansun8583 on hodinkee community & deployant
REF. 1341-0208 CONCEPT or MINIMALIST LIMITED EDITION - 10 pcs: white gold & fumé dial with no writing nor indexes
credit: hodinkee
credit: Watch Vault
credit: monochrome
credit: H. Moser & Cie
credit: Phillips & Deployant
credit: s.song
credit: loupe this
credit: H. Moser & Cie
REF. 1341-1202 LIMITED EDITION OF 5 pcs: stainless steel & grey fumé dial
credit: shreve, crump & low
INTRODUCTION OF THE NEW HMC 800 CALIBER & PURITY DESIGN
Around 2016, the caliber HMC 341 was replaced by its improved version, caliber HMC 800, more reliable and easy to assemble. Concomitantly:
- The reference numbers evolved from 1341-xxx to 1800-xxx.
- The aesthetic of the dial was purified (fewer indexes, simplified power reserve scale and no writing), introducing the Purity Endeavour Perpetual Calendar.
- The case was enlarged to 42 mm
credit: Sjx, Moser & Mr. Watchley
credit: sotheby’s
REF. 1800-0204 FUNKY BLUE: white gold & funky blue fumé dial with brand logo in transparent lacquer
credit: Moser & Sjx
credit: hodinkee
credit: 1916 Company
B/ PIONEER PERPETUAL CALENDARS
Around 2017, the perpetual calendar complication was brought to the sportier Pionneer line, featuring a 120m water resistance.
Case: diameter: 42.8 mm/height: 11.3 mm
Hand-wound HMC 800 calibre
REF. 3800-0900: case made of red gold and DLC-treated titanium
credit: H. Moser & Cie
credit: monochrome
INTRODUCTION OF THE ‘MD’ VARIANT
In 2019, the MD (for month & date) Perpetual Calendar was introduced, powered by caliber HMC 808.
REF. 3808-0900 Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition : 18k red gold with black DLC-treated titanium inserts & blue fumé dial
credit: Sjx
credit: monochrome
C/ STREAMLINER PERPETUAL CALENDARS
In 2021, the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar was introduced, powered by caliber HMC 812 with center seconds.
Case: 42.3mm diameter x 11mm height
Dial with power reserve at 10 o'clock (instead of 9) and date at 4 o'clock (instead of 3)
REF. 6812-1200: stainless steel & grey fumé dial with sunburst pattern
credit: monochrome
credit: hodinkee
D/ HERITAGE PERPETUAL CALENDARS
In 2016, for the 10th anniversary of the Perpetual 1, the first Heritage Perpetual Calendar was created.
REF. 8341-0400 Limited to 10 pcs (2016)
Case: 46 x 13.8 mm, 5N red gold, engraved, enameled, and diamond-set
Dial: white grand feu enamel, flame-blued hands
Movement: manually wound Caliber HMC 341 with 18-karat red gold bridges and main plate
credit: GPHG - Quill & Pad
42 x 12.6 mm white gold case
Movement HMC 800
credit: Sjx
Overview of the H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendars
Fantastic overview and nice to see my own watch featured here (the first one in Palladium and fume dial). What I did not know is that the use of the double hairspring seems to be haphazard.
Thank you! Yours is a wonderful example.
If I am not mistaken all the older models had it.
Yes, I sold it to make room for another acquisition.
Always like the simplicity of this design.
I personally like the center seconds on the Perpetual Moon.
yes
I think I see what you mean.
I like the minimalist idea...
These H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendars are just breathtaking.
I apologize for the overload.
Thanks Emmanuel for a very comprehensive post.
Oeffff excellent posts again 👌🏻🤗