SalonQP 2015: Independent Watchmaking Wristshots
Wristshot

SalonQP 2015: Independent Watchmaking Wristshots

By foversta · Nov 16, 2015 · 36 replies
foversta
WPS member · Horological Meandering forum
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Foversta provides a captivating photo essay from SalonQP, highlighting the event's significance as a hub for independent watchmaking and new brand debuts. His "festival of wristshots" offers readers a virtual tour of the diverse and often exclusive timepieces on display, from established independents to emerging British brands. Foversta's post captures the excitement of discovering watches not typically seen elsewhere, making it a valuable resource for enthusiasts.

Once again, SalonQP gave the proof that it is the main Salon dedicated to the final customers with a spectacular gathering of more than 80 brands. Even if I regretted the absence of some major brands which were present the year before (like JLC or Zenith), the numerous independent brands created a strong appeal that any watch fan in London couldn't miss. Actually, SalonQP was much more than a salon displaying the novelties of the year. Can you imagine that several brands made their first official appearance? That several "premiere" watches were unveiled? That, as usual, I could discover a few British brands totally unknown to me? This is the main interest of SalonQP: you handle watches you don't have the chance to  see elsewhere... even for some at Basel!

I spent the 3 days at the Salon from Thursday evening to Saturday afternoon. The last day was of course very special for the attendees due to the tragic events in Paris and Beirut. All the people had a lot of nice words for the French people visiting the Salon which was highly heartwarming.

I propose you my traditional festival of wristshots with some surprises inside! Of course, among these watches are not 2015 novelties but I couldn't resist to put them on the wrist.


There isn't any specific order in this thread, just from the first watch I shoot to the last one of the Salon. Enjoy it!


The Manufacture Royale 1770 Voltige and its mesmerizing dial. The perfect watch to observe the regulating organ at work!





A new brand is doing its first steps: Czapek. I will come back to it with more details. This is the Quai des Bergues n°31 with its enamel dial:





The 1140 by Urban Jürgensen is pure and beautiful. A watch close to perfection.





A revival from England: Dennison. Actually, this company produced cases for a lot of brands and it is back with this simple watch powered by an ETA movement.




One of the stars of the show was obviously the Montblanc 1858 Chronograph powered by the superb movement from the Minerva manufacture.




Another chronograph, another star: the retro-looking yet very contemporary Vacheron Constantin Historiques 1955 Chronograph Cornes de Vache.





I'm speaking about watches and I find a huge one on the dial! Opus 14 is obviously spectacular. The complication is pure fun. But is this watch a real Opus? I will launch the debate later.





Tim and Bart did it again! The Grönefeld brothers presented this piece unique based on the Platinum Tourbillon Parallax:




The KO Northern Lights, created with James Thompson (Black Badger) is back in a gold case! Well done Stepan Sarpaneva!





The De Bethune DB27 D Polo Edition is not my fav De Bethune and I much prefer the DB28 Digitale. But I was very surprised by the case resistance. Even with a key, it was not possible to scratch it!





The DB28 Grand Sport now comes with a very comfortable rubber strap:




This is a superb dial made in-house by Lang & Heyne.




But despite this poetic approach, I was more seduced by the Friedrich III which is also available with a Stainless Steel case!





It is always a pleasure to meet Antoine and Florian Preziuso and their Tourbillon of Tourbillons watch. Here is a spectacular black version.





Akrivia, the brand of Rexhep Rexhepi was as usual present at the SalonQP. I could handle this year the final version of the Tourbillon Chiming Jumping Hour:





Kari Voutilainen remains obviously a pillar of SalonQP! Funny detail, the decoration style of the Vigt-8 is similar to the Grönefeld piece unique (black + orange details)!





SalonQP was very proud to present the latest watch from Roger Smith, the Series 4. Actually he introduced 2 new watches and 2 "redesigned" watches, the Series 1 and 2. The Series 4 offers a new complication with an  instantaneous triple calendar. A beauty. But you need to be patient to deserve it. It requires 3 years of work. Time to save money I suppose. smile




Another impressive watch from Montblanc with this Tourbillon Geospheres Night Sky which was unveiled a few weeks ago. What a spectacular dial.





To be honest with you, I wasn't aware about this Harry Winston Avenue Dual Time. I find it... very strange but at least it offers a new design perspective!





This is maybe one of the most expected watches of this end of the year: the Tudor Black Bay Black. A watch doesn't  need to be expensive to be very seducing and appealing.





Giles Ellis was offering us this year a new version of the Signalman: the Silvertop. I love the contrast between the bezel and the black DLC parts.




I have special thoughts for Emmanuel Dietrich. He presented during the Salon this stealth version for the British market. It is impressive to see how any colours combo works with this watch.




Le Rhöne was presenting its full collection based on a chronograph. The case is made by the same provider of the Vertu phone cases.





Manufacture Royale again with the 1770 Micromegas Tourbillon. I need to publish a video to make you understand that the key interest of the watch is to observe the speed differences of the two tourbillons.





Rebellion was presenting its full collection including the Wraith Drive which symbolizes the involvement of the brand in motor sport.





The Magnum 540 Grand Tourbillon is bulky and it doesn't lack character!





Arnold & Son was of course another significant brand present at SalonQP this year. Since I already took pictures of the 2015 collection, I chose to shoot this Double Tourbillon Escapement (DTE):





Richard Hoptroff was back this year with a more wearable atomic watch. I'm always impressed by its ability to create such pieces.




This is the Petite Aiguille winner at the GPHG 2015! Congrats to Maria and Richard for this great achievement with Felix!





Moser introduced a less formal watch with the Pioneer Centre Seconds. It works pretty well I must confess.





Nomos was presenting its new Neomatik collection based on the DUW3001 movement: 5 watches available in two atmopheres.

Here is the Ludwig:




And the Minimatik:




Andreas Strehler is collaborating with Garrick. But I could take the opportunity to handle his new piece, the Time Shadow:




Garrick was present for the 1st year at the Salon. Here is the Norfolk, inspired by Marine Instruments:




Alexandre Meerson was introducing a new dial for his D15 - two timezones watch. The Pacific Coast is a very nice brown grey dial which works well with the D15 design.




Armin Strom, the specialist of contemporary skeletonized watches displayed a wide range of pieces including a new piece in White Gold:




Here is the Manual Air, the most simple watch of the collection:




Chronoswiss redesigned its quarter repeater based on a DD module if I remember well. The watch is available also in Stainless Steel as pictured below:




One of the nice surprises was the C9 Moonphase from Christopher Ward, a complication created by the addition of two wheels on a modified ETA 2836. A very affordable and nicely made moonphase display:




SevenFriday was the sponsor of the bar at the 2nd floor but of course, they took advantage of their presence to unveil new pieces!

The new V3:




And the P2B/03-W... better to call it the Woody!




Objectif Horlogerie set up its workshops to propose master classes. And as usual, the client could take with him the watch he assembled. A wonderful idea for a gift!




Bremont reinforced its involvement with Jaguar with the MKII, a chronograph version of the MKI:




SalonQP gave me the opportunity to visit the Ralph Lauren booth and I could appreciate two watches of the current collection.

The Automotive Squelette:




And the very elegant Carré, maybe the most convincing of the collection:





I would like to end the report with two pics of Lange watches taken during the Salon.

The Zeitwerk Minute Repeater on the wrist and on the corridors of the Salon. Sadly, the watch was not striking so I can't tell you anything about the sound quality.



And a double-wristshot with my dear friend Lucia!





It was as you can see it, 2015 was a very qualitative and versatile edition of SalonQP. The perfect organization, the beautiful location and the impressive set of exhibitors make SalonQP as a mandatory rendez-vous on the agenda. I can't wait for the next edition!

Fx




This message has been edited by foversta on 2015-11-16 14:27:57

About the De Bethune DB28 Ref. DB28

De Bethune DB28 Reference DB28

The DB28 represents De Bethune's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie, featuring the brand's distinctive floating lug design within a 42.6mm case format. This reference showcases the manufacture's technical capabilities through its extended power reserve specification and proprietary movement caliber.

The 42.6mm titanium case houses the manual-winding caliber DB2115, delivering a 120-hour power reserve. The silver dial is protected by sapphire crystal, while the characteristic floating lugs define the case architecture. Water resistance extends to 30 meters, and the watch is completed with a leather strap.

This reference appeals to collectors focused on independent Swiss manufacture capabilities and contemporary case design. The DB28 represents De Bethune's technical approach to manual-winding movements, particularly notable for collectors interested in extended power reserve complications. Production commenced in 2010, positioning this reference within the brand's modern catalog offerings.

Specifications

Caliber
DB2115
Case
Titanium
Diameter
42.6 mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
MA
Mark in Paris
Nov 16, 2015

A place to visit if we like independent watchmaking for sure! I'm curious to see how and why (for the challenge or else?) the 2 tourbillons cage rotate at different speed indeed. I'd love to see Lang&Heyne once too. Of course KV, RSmith etc.... should be amazing in the metal. But, on the other hand, I have a really issue with Czapek as it seems to be the story of marketting specialists taking a brand from the grave to give articifial legitimacy (as it is closely related to patek Philippe's h

MO
Mostel
Nov 16, 2015

On an affordable note... Nomos is very nice... when I had the rare good fortune to spend an afternoon with M Dufour, he said to me, in a kind of mischevious way, "Nomos is so nice!" And it is. So there you go. For myself, I find the Smith perpetual simply insane. It kills me. I would probably order it NOT two tone... but... this is classical watchmaking at THE LEVEL. I suppose some could argue that Smith is doing nothing new, and certainly pushing no 'envelope'. I dunno. I just love it and want

KO
kolosstt
Nov 17, 2015

With lots of pleasure I scrolled through your picture report. Thanks and looking forward to the detailed extracts like Opus or the double tourbillion. Best regards, Kolosstt

OR
Ornatus-Mundi
Nov 17, 2015

next to my obvious favourites Habring2 . Ever I saw the Akrivia tourbillon the first time it never really managed to escape my brains. I find the overall balance, despite the 'generously' dimensioned case, very well executed, probably thanks to the very, very sensuously executed toubillon escapement. Then, the Garrick piece is something I need to take a closer look. British horology has always fascinated me, and this appears to be a next avenue to track. It goes without saying that the newest Ro

BL
blomman Mr Blue
Nov 17, 2015

Looking forward to see more detailed reports! Best Blomman

WA
watch-guy.com
Nov 17, 2015

as an aside , is version 1 available ? Are we able to buy one direct from mr smith himself? Thanks Julian

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