GPHG 2016 Preselected Watches & Predictions

The Rolex Bubble Back, reference 1858, represents an early example of Rolex's self-winding waterproof wristwatches. This reference is part of the broader Bubble Back family, characterized by its distinctive domed case back designed to accommodate the thicker automatic movement of the era. It showcases Rolex's foundational efforts in developing robust and reliable automatic timepieces for everyday wear, laying groundwork for future Oyster Perpetual models.

This particular reference features an 18k white gold case, measuring 38mm in diameter. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a silver dial. The watch is powered by an automatic movement, specifically the Boucheron 1858 caliber, offering a power reserve of 42 hours. The fixed bezel and leather strap complete the watch's classic presentation.

For collectors, the reference 1858 holds interest as an early and relatively rare iteration within the Bubble Back series, especially in white gold. Its larger case size for the period also makes it appealing to modern tastes. The presence of a date complication adds to its functionality, distinguishing it from simpler time-only Bubble Back models and highlighting Rolex's early integration of practical features.

De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25

The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.

The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.

De Bethune DB28 Reference DB28

The DB28 represents De Bethune's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie, featuring the brand's distinctive floating lug design within a 42.6mm case format. This reference showcases the manufacture's technical capabilities through its extended power reserve specification and proprietary movement caliber.

The 42.6mm titanium case houses the manual-winding caliber DB2115, delivering a 120-hour power reserve. The silver dial is protected by sapphire crystal, while the characteristic floating lugs define the case architecture. Water resistance extends to 30 meters, and the watch is completed with a leather strap.

This reference appeals to collectors focused on independent Swiss manufacture capabilities and contemporary case design. The DB28 represents De Bethune's technical approach to manual-winding movements, particularly notable for collectors interested in extended power reserve complications. Production commenced in 2010, positioning this reference within the brand's modern catalog offerings.

The H. Moser Concept represents the brand's contemporary automatic offering, distinguished by its fumé dial treatment within the Concept series. This reference showcases the manufacturer's approach to modern watchmaking through its 40mm proportions and palladium case construction.

The 40mm palladium case houses the automatic HMC 200 caliber, providing 42 hours of power reserve. The watch features a sapphire crystal and fixed bezel configuration, with water resistance rated to 30 meters. The fumé dial is complemented by a leather strap, creating a refined aesthetic profile.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking contemporary H. Moser craftsmanship in precious metal casing. The palladium construction and fumé dial combination positions this piece within the brand's modern offerings, suitable for those appreciating the manufacturer's current design language. Production commenced in 2015 and continues to present.

The Urban Jurgensen Reference 2340 is a notable entry in the Jules Collection, distinguished by its "Big 8" dial layout. This reference is part of a series that showcases Urban Jurgensen's commitment to traditional watchmaking techniques combined with distinctive aesthetic elements. The "Big 8" designation refers to the enlarged sub-dial for the seconds display, a characteristic design feature that provides enhanced legibility and a unique visual balance to the dial. This model represents a period of production for the brand where it continued to refine its classic offerings.

The Reference 2340 features a steel case, housing a movement based on the F. Piguet 1160 caliber. The case diameter is 40mm, a size that offers a contemporary presence while retaining a classic profile suitable for various wrist sizes. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, ensuring durability and clear visibility of the dial. The movement, while based on an external ébauche, is finished and regulated to Urban Jurgensen's exacting standards, reflecting their dedication to horological precision.

This reference appeals to collectors who appreciate Urban Jurgensen's blend of traditional craftsmanship and subtle design innovations. The "Big 8" layout is a signature element that differentiates it from other models within the Jules Collection, making it a distinct piece for those seeking a watch with a unique dial architecture. Its steel case also positions it as a more accessible option compared to precious metal variants, while still embodying the brand's high standards of finishing and mechanical integrity.