Manufacture
Alex's visit to the De Bethune workshops provides an intimate look into one of contemporary horology's most innovative independent brands. His report highlights De Bethune's scientific approach to watchmaking, constant innovation, and meticulous in-house production, offering readers a rare glimpse into the creation of these exceptional timepieces.
I have to start by saying how biased I am toward De Bethune! They represent for me one of the greatest contemporary independent brands in the sense that they are not content using traditional movements in funky designs but have an almost scientific approach to watchmaking, constantly innovating and pushing boundaries.
For me they represent 21st century watchmaking. I like to believe that if Breguet or Berthoud were alive they would not be creating watches using 18th century technology but would do what De Bethune is doing.
To give you an example since 2002, date of its foundation, De Bethune has created over 30 inhouse movements. The have developed and patented the world's first balance-wheel to incorporate silicon which they later used for other components such as escape-wheels, balance-springs, hands, bridges and collets. De Bethune has developed its own balance made of titanium/platinum, creating an ideal mass/ inertia ratio. a special its flat terminal curve in the balance spring enabling optimal rate performance and avoiding distortions. They have also developed a specific shock absorbtion system for both their automatic and manual wind watches.
So on a sunny April day I set out to Auberson to visit the workshops of this amazing brand. A brand set up in 2002 by two genies, each in their own field. David Zanetta a collector and connoisseur of vintage horology and watchmaker extraordinaire Denis Flagollet who had spent his career restoring vintage timepieces or creating movements for third parties.
Even though relatively small with a staff of about 12 and a production of less than 100 watches a year De Bethune makes almost all the components of its watches inhouse, including balance and balance springs!
The first room where I was taken to is where the CNC machines cut and mill the components, including screws and dials.
De Bethune DB28 Reference DB28
The DB28 represents De Bethune's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie, featuring the brand's distinctive floating lug design within a 42.6mm case format. This reference showcases the manufacture's technical capabilities through its extended power reserve specification and proprietary movement caliber.
The 42.6mm titanium case houses the manual-winding caliber DB2115, delivering a 120-hour power reserve. The silver dial is protected by sapphire crystal, while the characteristic floating lugs define the case architecture. Water resistance extends to 30 meters, and the watch is completed with a leather strap.
This reference appeals to collectors focused on independent Swiss manufacture capabilities and contemporary case design. The DB28 represents De Bethune's technical approach to manual-winding movements, particularly notable for collectors interested in extended power reserve complications. Production commenced in 2010, positioning this reference within the brand's modern catalog offerings.
They wanted to put me in their showroom. No that is not what I intended. Lousy performance. Nevertheless pics of my De Bethune.
your wonderfully illustrated presentation was also wonderfully long... such a treat... I wished it would never end! de Béthune encapsulate in a unique way a wonderful pioneering spirit. That of always pushing the limits of horlogy with unrivalled refinement, originality and style. The very best of contemporary horology. I had the massive privilege of visiting the manufactire some 4 to 5 years ago. What a memory! Unforgettable! de Bethune made me dream then and, oh boy, they still make me dream t
A lot of talent in this brand indeed and bringing a lot to watch making today. Thank you very much for sharing your visit with us Alex Best, Mark
Definitely one of the most under appreciated and original brands out there. Its a shame we can't see more of the custom pieces. They posted a picture on instagram of a rose gold DB25 with black guilloché dial that was absolutely incredible. Can't wait to see what they do next
I would add Romain Gauthier, Credor's Eichi II and RW Smith to the fray. I will exclude Mr Dufour since he is not producing anything at present
the DB geneva waves are different to whatother do. Normally the Geneva waves are a series of parallel stripes across a plate. With DB they take it an extra step further, the waves are applied up til the middle, then they rotate the plate and a apply the waves. The difficulty is visually maintaining the parallels whilst changing the direction they are applied, the final result is the way the light shines on the plate seeming to radiate from the center.
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