KIH's report on the AHCI Tokyo Exhibition 2015 offers a captivating glimpse into the world of independent watchmaking, showcasing the innovative creations of AHCI members. The article highlights the work of Japanese watchmaker Hajime Kikuno, including his 'Orizuru' and 'Wa-Dokei Revision' pieces, alongside other notable independent artisans. KIH provides a valuable overview of the unique artistry and technical prowess present at the exhibition.
"AHCI TOKYO EXHIBITION 2015" was held in Ginza and there were some of the AHCI members themselves and many interesting new offerings.
First of all, Mr. Kikuno was featured in the top floor.
He was featured in the NHK (Japan's national television) documentary and the footage was shown on the wall (4K version!). And in front is the "real" Mr. Kikuno talking with the clients.
The original "Wa-Dokei" which made him the candidate for AHCI. Much bigger than the new one (this year's Basel offering).
His other watches.
On the same floor, some of the pieces by other AHCI members were exhibited.
Paul Gerber
Svend Andersen
Pita
Antoine Preziuso
Tourbillon B-Side
The Art of Tourbillon
Now, down to the "sales and display" corner...
1. Pita
None of Pita's watch has the crown.
Steam
For those who don't know how to operate Pita watches....
Roadster
Carousel
Oceana
Mr. Pita himself. Very friendly gentleman.
Carousel is in a way, a slow motion "tourbillon", as both the movement and the oscillating mass rotate together to tell you the time (the hand actually does not exist and it is an extension of the movement). From September, they will have Carousel in Bronze or Steel.
All operated the same way.
Except this one - Roadster
Roadster is Pita's racing style chrongraph. Just introduced at the 2015 Basel in Aluminum Series 7, and will start delivering Titanium Grade 5 version from September.
See the dial side slightly tilted toward the owner's face (for the drivers to see the watch better when driving)
From the top of Roadster. The center is the crown (!) which works to wind and when pulled adjusts the time. Both side buttons are for the chronograph function. Mr. Pita made them at the flat level as the case surface, and look like the pedals. The case material is very light - new aluminum alloy.
On top, the crown, and chronograph buttons. On the dial, on 3 is the hour counter, on 9 is the minute counter - both were made to look like the car instrument panel. The chronograph hand starts from 6 o'clock.
Automatic movement, but can wind with the crown as well.
The day window and the second window. Very unique way to show the second.
Steam - dress-up version of Oceana, same two patented systems (TSM & RT), but in Bronze-Aluminum case and Nile Crocodile Oleophobic strap (treated to repel water, so you can dive with it, as it won't get rotten by humidity). Since the introduction of first Oceana in 2009, and as Pita has the same modular and watertight case system with magnetic transmission and no gaskets/ helium valve for the Stream, there have been zero returns or issues related with water leaking.
Domey top. The crown-less structure is very strong for water resistant and has never come back for repair yet.
2. Christiaan Van Der Klaauw (unfortunately, he or his agent wasn't there while I was)
3. Marc Jenni (nor was he...)
4. Paul Gerber and his collaboration with "Arita-yaki" - a type of Japanese porcelain in the western part of Japan.
Beautiful porcelain dial!!!!
The agent showed me the catalog as well as the example of the orders he has taken.
Some of them are the perfect reproduction of the porcelain plate which were presented to the Emperors.
5. Miki Eleta - a super complication clock. Took him 3 months to complete. All the clocks are made to order.
He also "designs" watches, which are made by other watchmaker. He likes bikes.
Moonphase
Zodiacal Constellations
"Governor" for the chiming/ auto-mata speed.
6. Ludovic Ballouard
Upside Down - MOP version
Half Time
You may have seen this many times, but I couldn't resist....
...and this one, too. is worth watching.
Mr. Ballouard - quite a tall and funny gentleman
7. Hajime Asaoka
8. Svend Anderson
World Time with "Blue Gold" in the center.
Mr. Pierre-Alexandre Aeschlimann, who represents Svend Anderson brand explains.
Moonphase is made of MOP of two different colors.
The one we saw on the top floor. Not enamel, but a miniature painting. Too much detail!
Time is also shown on the side.
"Blue Gold" is made of Gold and Iron.
Very, very decorated rotor.
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Mr. Daniel Rincon Hanna - Coordinator from AHCI, who wants to expand AHCI activity like this globally. A great idea!
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Back to the top floor.
Antoine Preziuso
Tourbillon of Tourbillons.
Really stunning design.
Even number of tourbilons are (relatively speaking) much easier than the odd number of tourbillons. Antoine and his son, Florian, worked very hard to make this triple tourbillon work.
Triple-differential gear in the center. Three tourbillons resonate for accuracy.
Look at how this thing works:
Now, let's take a look at it again in slow motion. Notice those three tourbillons are in sync. Should have brought the better video camera, but you know what I mean, I hope....
That's it! Sorry for the longish post. But they are all worth mentioning and I am looking forward to such exhibitions here more often. Thank you, Kikuno-san for inviting and thank you, AHCI!
Ken
This message has been edited by KIH on 2015-07-19 23:38:21
Key Points from the Discussion
Independent watchmaking, as showcased by AHCI members, is characterized by personal interpretation and a focus on bringing something new and genuine to horology, rather than aiming for mass appeal.
The exhibition provided a rare opportunity to see many unique AHCI pieces in person, with videos offering a closer look at their intricate movements and designs.
The Antoine Preziuso triple tourbillon is noted for its striking and potentially distracting visual complexity.
There is a desire among collectors to see more AHCI exhibitions held in the United States.
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The Discussion
AN
AnthonyTsai
Jul 19, 2015
Since I've never seen many of these AHCI pieces in the flesh before, I really appreciated the videos you shared with us in your report. The Antoine Preziuso triple tourbillon is a beast! I'd probably get into a car accident if I had one strapped to my wrist while driving. My eyes would be on the dial rather than the road... Cheers, Anthony
SA
SALMANPK
Jul 19, 2015
One of the best I've seen on AHCI watch makers. Thank You. S
MA
Mark in Paris
Jul 20, 2015
It will even allow people willing to discover many of the AHCI members in a single post. I noticed I'm not a fan of every watches I could see but I would say this is inherent to independent watchmaking: personal interpretation from a talented watchmaker of what is watchmaking to him. Not here to please the larger part but to bring something new and genuine. Thanks for the report Ken :) Cheers, Mark
DA
Darren
Jul 20, 2015
sounds good to me. Would love to see a few of these AHCI exhibitions in the United States! For now, fun to admire from afar. Darren
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