Baron - Mr Red
14613
My "Ricciardi Red"
Where does one start with a watch with as rich a
history as the 1680? Well, it is probably worth starting with some basic
information. The information I will give is drawn from a number of sources, but
obviously any errors are entirely due to me! It is also true that this forum is
very rich in information about the 1680 reference. Mark Leman’s article, in
particular was truly great. I am not sure anything can be added to that as a
reference piece. (Rolex Red Submariner
- Everything Red Sub Reference).
Although I have seen conflicting evidence on when
the first 1680 was launched by Rolex, I believe the first watches were
available from 1966. There is also conflicting evidence on how long the watch
was actually in production. Many reports suggest through to 1980, however a
production run through to 1973 also seems plausible since the “White” Sub
started to be produced from 1973. Plausibly they were both in production from
1973-80.
The watch in my collection has a Mk 2 dial.
According to Leman, there are 8 varieties of dial. The Mk1 typically can be
found with a serial number between 2.07m – 2.15m. The Mk2 and Mk3 dials are
found between 2.15m-2.45m. These three dial varieties all differ in a number of
ways, but all three have one thing in common: their depth rating is written
with the “metres” first. Mark 4 dials and onwards have their depth written with
“feet” first. In terms of rarity, the Mk1 dial is the rarest with just some 4%
of Red Sub dials having those specific Mk1 traits. Mk 2 and Mk3 dials are also
rare insofar as only 15% or so carried the Mk2 and Mk3 traits. Clearly, as
watches were returned for service, the older dials will have also suffered
service dial replacement.
My 1680 is a Mk2, as stated. It’s serial number
falling in the earlier half of the range mentioned by Leman. Bill posted a shot
of his 1680 a few weeks ago…also a Mk2. We cross-checked and found our watches
to be within 500 of each other.
Abel and FrancisV pointed out some of the history of my 1680. In particular, its Argentinian connection. Having a Mk2 dial makes the 1680 already a special watch. But to source its origins from Argentina adds a great deal of spice to the watch.
Lets start with the box. Finding a watch in its original box is always a big attraction. Sure, it is possible to source boxes from the correct era, but how wonderful to find a watch with its original box. As you can see from the scan, boxes from the early 1970s typically had an angled faceted top. My watch was sold in 1974, so this would fit with the era. But how can I be more sure that it is original to the watch?
Well, a look inside the box reveals its secret. As Abel pointed out, the Ricciardi retailer was, and still is, a prestigious retailer in Argentina. In much the same way that Tiffany or Serpico Y Laino stamped their hallmark on their watches, Ricciardi did something similar with their watches. Well, actually they did a few things. Ricciardi had their Rolex boxes made specifically for their clients, having their name printed into the fabric of the box. It really adds something to have it in such an unusual and original box.
But Ricciardi also did something else that is unusual - possibly unique. On the underside of one of the lugs, Ricciardi had a unique number reference engraved into the steel of the watch. This number was recorded by Ricciardi in its records of sales so that it could identify any specific watch it had sold as well as the details of the first owner. I have blurred some of the number detail, but the scan shows clearly the nature of the engraving on my watch’s under-lug. When I first saw this, I was slightly concerned. Sometimes one finds a rare watch and one of its previous owners has had their names or initials engraved on the underside. I know this shouldn’t put me off, but it so often does. Seeing the odd number engraving gave me similar thoughts. But not in this case. As Peppo pointed out, this is what Ricciardi used to do, and it makes the watch very special as a result.
The watch also has its original stamped papers. Ricciardi also liked to stamp those papers and counter-sign too.
All in all, the history of Ricciardi and its relationship with Rolex goes back a long time. The manner in which they dealt with their watches differed to the regular retailer. It is this odd and different way of retailing their watches that makes the Ricciardi Red so attractive to me. Given my love for the Double Reds, it would be very very tempting to combine this Ricciardi Red with a Ricciardi Double Red. Good to have dreams.
To finish, a wrist shot by the fire.

Reference Guide
markLerman · Sep 10, 2010
Mark Lerman's definitive guide to the Rolex Red Submariner 1680. Learn about dial variations, case numbers, and collecting insights for this iconic vintage model.
30 replies92270 views

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DrStrong · Nov 24, 2009
Discover DrStrong's elusive Rolex Comex Double Red Sea-Dweller (DRSD) ref. 1665, acquired directly from a Comex diver. Explore its unique provenance, historical significance, and the debate around its authenticity.
86 replies47919 views

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DrStrong · Dec 8, 2008
Explore the history and collector appeal of Tiffany & Co. double-signed Rolex sports models, including the Submariner ref. 5513.
27 replies40632 views

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Deep dive into the Rolex Submariner 6200, exploring its history, dial variations, and the debate over its status as the first Submariner. Essential for collectors.
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Explore a rare vintage Rolex GTG in London, featuring military-issued watches, the reunion of two Rolex Sea-Dweller Gold Oman watches, and diverse collector insights.
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Baron - Mr Red · Dec 25, 2018
Explore the Rolex 1665 Great White 'Rail Dial' Sea-Dweller. Discover its rarity, historical significance, and why it stands out from the Double Red.
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My "Ricciardi Red"
By: Baron - Mr Red : March 24th, 2013-08:50
Where does one start with a watch with as rich a history as the 1680? Well, it is probably worth starting with some basic information. The information I will give is drawn from a number of sources, but obviously any errors are entirely due to me! It is al...
Great info!
By: Mike1066 : March 24th, 2013-10:09
I have heard of the Serpico y Laino dials before and, obviously, the Tiffany connection. But I have never heard of this unique jeweler connection until now. That is what is so great about Rolex and this forum- you learn some new intricate detail each day!...
Great post!
By: FrancisV : March 24th, 2013-11:40
Hello Baron, your post reveals the special relationship between Rolex and Ricciardi, which make them almost unique. They use to have the records of every piece they sold. Many years ago, I owned a GMT (1675) from Ricciardi but at that time I was not aware...
Great write up Baron
By: Ubik : March 27th, 2013-09:09
some fascinating details, although for us non-Rolex heads the various dials and configurations is a little confusing to follow. The connection between brands and prestigous dealers is fascinating, of course in the early days very often the retailer was mo...