DrStrong's in-depth exploration of the Rolex 1665 COMEX 'Brothers in Arms' provides a compelling historical account of these specialized dive watches. His article highlights the critical role of COMEX in the development of the Sea-Dweller and the Helium Gas Escape Valve, offering collectors and enthusiasts a detailed look into the engineering and purpose behind these iconic references. This piece is a valuable resource for understanding the heritage of Rolex's professional diving instruments.
During the late 1960s, commercial work in the oceans
and seas created professional diving organizations that needed tool watches
designed for conducting safe diving operations at greater depths – known as
saturation diving.
This led to the development of the first ‘ultra water
resistant’ watches. In collaboration with COMEX - a France-based professional
dive company which is considered as the NASA of the sea - Rolex developed its
“Submariner” model to meet the most stringent technical and professional demands
of the professional deep-sea diver.
In the process, Rolex eventually produced a very different
watch from the Submariner - the “Sea Dweller” – whose genesis has already been described
on the forum:
rolex.watchprosite.com
rolex.watchprosite.com
COMEX divers not only needed solutions for water
resistance at extreme depth, they also faced the danger of explosive
decompression caused by helium penetrating the interior of the watch (divers
breathed the mixture of oxygen and helium within their hyperbaric chamber after
lengthy deep sea dives). Rolex collaborated with COMEX to develop a solution by
installing a one-way pressure escape valve on the side of the watch case, at
the nine o’clock position. The one-way valve will begin to equalize the
pressure inside the watch when the difference between the exterior and interior
of the watch exceeded 2.5 kg. per sq. cm.
The Helium Gas Escape Valve (HEV) was featured and
tested on the Single Red and Double Red Patent Pending Submariner Sea-Dwellers,
circa 1967-1969. Once the testing was successfully completed and Patent of the
HEV approved, COMEX placed a special order with Rolex for the supply of a number
of dive watches featuring the HEV; the first batch consisted of ten thin case
Sea Dweller - for the top divers only - and Submariner. The ref. 5513 COMEX
watches with HEV (an improved version introduced post Patent approval) that
followed (circa 1972) were mostly produced with a small or medium sized issue
number engraved on the case back and a plain matt non-logo dial. The following
model was the same watch with only a special reference for Comex, the 5514.
After some years, the
need for increased water resistance led to the delivery of an additional batch
of Sea Dwellers
These watches were delivered to COMEX from 1977 to 1981, with pretty
distinctive dials: compared to the regular 1665 dials, they have a 600m rating (instead
of 610) and do not say “sea dweller”.
Here’s a close up of this very special dial, nicknamed
the Pisani dial:
The COMEX numbers for these watches were in the range
of 2000-2300 with only 300 delivered. The first 100 watches have a “double Red”
type caseback, with the large straight “Rolex” engraving. That’s the very
desirable “first serie”, the holy grail of Comex collectors.
Here’s a close up of a first serie caseback, in
unpolished condition. Isn’t that a beautiful engraving ?
Over the years, I was lucky enough to buy two of these
watches from their first owners, two ex Comex divers. The two watches have
quite similar stories: they were both delivered in the mid 1970’s and used
intensively in underwater work, especially in Africa and the North Sea. I have
bought these watches in raw condition, never touched up by any collector or dealer…that’s how a Comex should be and that's priceless IMHO !
The watches belonged to two good friends, who have worked together on some occasions. I got plenty of informations and documentation with the watches. Here are a couple of pictures taken in Gabon in 1976:
A great picture of one of the divers connecting
oil pipes at a depth of 104m under the Sandokan barge:
Here are some more
pictures of underwater work in Norway in 1979:
The timepieces definitely show scars from their extreme working
conditions.
It’s a great feeling
to have brought these two working mates back together after all these years. If they
could speak, they would have amazing stories to tell !
This message has been edited by DrStrong on 2016-02-10 00:54:56
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513
The Rolex Submariner reference 5513 is a notable example within the Submariner line, distinguished by its two-line dial and lack of a date complication. Produced for an extended period, it represents a core offering for collectors seeking a straightforward and robust tool watch. Its design emphasizes legibility and functionality, aligning with the original purpose of the Submariner series. This reference is recognized for its consistent aesthetic throughout its production run, with subtle variations in dial text and bezel inserts.
The watch features a 40mm stainless steel Oyster case, offering durability and water resistance suitable for its intended use. Powering the reference 5513 is the automatic Caliber 1520 movement, known for its reliability. The crystal is acrylic, contributing to the vintage character of the watch. The unidirectional rotating bezel, typically with an aluminum insert, allows for elapsed time measurement.
For collectors, the reference 5513 is a significant model due to its long production history and the various dial iterations, such as gilt and matte dials, which present distinct collecting opportunities. Its appeal lies in its foundational design and its position as a non-date Submariner, making it a desirable piece for those who appreciate the model's original form. The watch is often paired with an Oyster bracelet, completing its functional aesthetic.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.1520
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black gilt
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 1680
The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 is notable as the first Submariner model to feature a date complication, marking a significant evolution for the line. Introduced in the late 1960s, it bridged the gap between the earlier no-date Submariners and later iterations, offering enhanced functionality while retaining the robust characteristics of the professional tool watch. This reference is distinguished by its single cyclops date magnifier on the crystal, a feature that would become a hallmark of many subsequent Rolex models.
This reference typically features a 40mm steel case, housing the self-winding Caliber 1575 movement. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The crystal is acrylic, commonly referred to as Plexiglas, contributing to its vintage aesthetic. Water resistance for the 1680 is rated at 200 meters, consistent with its design as a reliable underwater instrument.
For collectors, the reference 1680 is highly sought after, particularly early examples with "Red Submariner" dials where the word "Submariner" is printed in red. These variants represent a distinct period in Rolex's production history and are prized for their rarity and aesthetic appeal. The 1680 appeals to those who appreciate the blend of historical significance, functional design, and the tangible qualities of vintage Rolex manufacturing.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.1575
- Case
- steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- black
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic (Plexiglas)
About the Rolex 1665 Ref. 1665
The Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 1665 is a significant model within the brand's professional tool watch lineage, distinguished by its enhanced water resistance compared to contemporary Submariner models. This reference was developed to meet the demands of professional saturation divers, featuring a helium escape valve (HEV) integrated into the case side, a key differentiator from other Rolex dive watches of its era. It represents a period of innovation in deep-sea horology, offering a robust solution for extreme underwater environments.
This reference features a 40 mm stainless steel case, designed for durability and resistance to high pressures. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 1575, a chronometer-certified movement known for its reliability and precision, offering a power reserve of approximately 42 to 48 hours. The watch is fitted with an acrylic crystal, contributing to its water resistance rating of 610 meters, and typically features a black dial with luminous hour markers.
For collectors, the reference 1665 is notable for its functional design and its place in the evolution of professional dive watches. Early examples, often referred to as "Double Red Sea-Dweller" (DRSD) due to two lines of red text on the dial, are particularly sought after. Later versions feature all-white text. The presence of the helium escape valve and its robust construction make it a distinct and historically important piece for those interested in the development of specialized timekeeping instruments.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 1575
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 610m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Ref. 5514
The Rolex Submariner reference 5514 is a specialized variant of the Submariner line, produced exclusively for COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises), a French industrial deep-sea diving company. This reference is distinguished by its unique helium escape valve, integrated into the left side of the case, a feature not found on standard Submariner models of its era. It represents a purpose-built tool watch designed for professional saturation divers, setting it apart from other Submariner references intended for broader commercial release. Its limited production and specific client make it a notable piece within the brand's history of professional watches.
The case of the reference 5514 is crafted from stainless steel, typically measuring 40mm in diameter. It houses an automatic movement, likely the Rolex Caliber 1520 or 1530, known for its robustness and reliability. The watch is fitted with a Plexiglas crystal, consistent with Rolex sports models from the mid-20th century, providing durability and ease of maintenance in demanding environments. The helium escape valve is a key technical modification, allowing accumulated helium to escape during decompression without damaging the watch crystal.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in specialized Rolex tool watches and those with a focus on professional diving equipment. Its association with COMEX and the presence of the helium escape valve make it a distinct and highly sought-after model. Variants often include dials with the COMEX logo, further emphasizing its unique provenance. The 5514 occupies a specific niche, representing a period when Rolex collaborated directly with professional organizations to develop watches tailored for extreme conditions.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 1520/1530
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Plexiglass
About the Rolex 16660 Ref. 16660
The Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 16660, often referred to as the "Triple Six," represents a significant transitional model within the Sea-Dweller lineage. It was the first Sea-Dweller to incorporate a sapphire crystal, a crucial upgrade that enhanced its pressure resistance and durability compared to its plexiglass predecessors. This reference also marked the introduction of a larger helium escape valve, further solidifying its professional dive watch credentials and distinguishing it from earlier iterations. It bridges the gap between the vintage four-digit references and the more modern five-digit models.
This reference features a 40 mm stainless steel Oyster case, designed for extreme depths. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 3035, a robust movement known for its reliability and quick-set date function. The watch is equipped with a sapphire crystal, contributing to its impressive water resistance of 1220 meters (4000 feet). The unidirectional rotating bezel allows for precise timing of immersion, and the Oyster bracelet ensures secure wear during demanding activities.
For collectors, the 16660 is notable for its transitional characteristics, offering both vintage appeal with its matte dial variants in early production and the enhanced technical specifications of later models. It appeals to those seeking a robust tool watch with historical significance, representing a key evolutionary step in Rolex's professional dive watch development. The reference is recognized for its engineering advancements and its role in the continuous refinement of the Sea-Dweller series.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 3035
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 1220m (4000ft)
- Crystal
- Sapphire crystal