Miranda delivers a comprehensive report on Rolex's 2017 Baselworld releases, highlighting significant updates and unexpected innovations. The article focuses on key models like the new Sea-Dweller, the updated Yacht-Master II, and the surprising steel/gold Sky-Dweller, offering initial impressions and commercial predictions.
An interesting year from Rolex. We see major birthday and the return of a famous complication. Pieces in steel we perhaps thought would never happen and perhaps the most important watch in the whole collection.
Let us start with the birthday boy, the new 50th Anniversary Sea Dweller. Well let me clarify this statement, this is not an anniversary watch/edition, but rather Rolex took the opportunity to launch a new model. A new larger 43mm case, revised bracelet and a cyclops. Oh and a dash of red to hint at the famous double red 1665 of 1967.
Now in my opinion this will be commercially a great success. It fits the bill, a nice rival to 42mm plus dive watches. Does it fit the bill for Purist collectors?- I will write separately on this view point- including why you should not be rushing out to spend your money on the discontinued model.
The 43mm case has a wider bezel, and a new flush fitting bracelet which is wider and therefore more balanced. The cyclops is an apparent nod to new technology which for the first time means the cyclops won't pop off or create a week point in the crystal. So from a technical point of view its a move forward.
The new Sea Dweller has the latest calibre movement so power reserve is 70 hours and meets the Rolex COSC standard.
Now , the Yachtmaster 2 with revised dial - which is across the range.
Now for the surprise package. My favourite Rolex from this year- and a bargain- an annual calendar in new steel/gold Rolesor combinations. The pick are the steel/WG, I can not decide between the sensational blue dial or sporty black dial. The use of luminous baton instead of roman numerals makes a huge difference and take the piece to a new level. The stand out watch from Rolex this year. It is s perfect as it can get.
great on ladies wrist too!
Last year the steel ceramic Daytona stole the show. This year we see new gold ceramic models on the Oysterflex. Now look at the clasp- are you thinking what I am thinking? I think the rubber oyster flex could be adapted to a steel clasp? I digress. The dials are a wonderful nod to vintage Panda dials. These new Daytona's are really wonderful alternative especially in white gold to the bracelet models.
I liked them a lot.
The clasp in more detail
The new 41mm steel/steel WG Datejust- perhaps the most important watch in the whole collection. A super and I really do mean superb new rendition of an all time classic. I loved it- especially the grey dial. I will definitely add this watch to my collection.
The Ladies were treated to new 28mm sized watches, with some beautiful gem set pieces
Now the return of a complication not seen since the 1950's. The classic 8171 re-emerges today in the Cellini collection- yes we again see a Moonphase complication. Not a triple calendar as in the 8171 but just with date. The moon disc is made of meteorite and the overall aesthetic is very elegant. It is a Rolex complication so would be a good edition to the sports Oysters. I would like to see this in white metal, but I seriously doubt we will see it in platinum or steel- shame. (A steel version would be an instant classic).
Finally a unique and special piece made just for our esteemed moderator Baron- just his cup of tea
Best
Imran
About the Rolex 1665 Ref. 1665
The Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 1665 is a significant model within the brand's professional tool watch lineage, distinguished by its enhanced water resistance compared to contemporary Submariner models. This reference was developed to meet the demands of professional saturation divers, featuring a helium escape valve (HEV) integrated into the case side, a key differentiator from other Rolex dive watches of its era. It represents a period of innovation in deep-sea horology, offering a robust solution for extreme underwater environments.
This reference features a 40 mm stainless steel case, designed for durability and resistance to high pressures. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 1575, a chronometer-certified movement known for its reliability and precision, offering a power reserve of approximately 42 to 48 hours. The watch is fitted with an acrylic crystal, contributing to its water resistance rating of 610 meters, and typically features a black dial with luminous hour markers.
For collectors, the reference 1665 is notable for its functional design and its place in the evolution of professional dive watches. Early examples, often referred to as "Double Red Sea-Dweller" (DRSD) due to two lines of red text on the dial, are particularly sought after. Later versions feature all-white text. The presence of the helium escape valve and its robust construction make it a distinct and historically important piece for those interested in the development of specialized timekeeping instruments.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 1575
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 610m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Padellone Ref. 8171
The Rolex Reference 8171, known colloquially as the 'Padellone' due to its substantial 38mm case diameter for its era, represents one of Rolex's few triple calendar models with a moon phase complication. Produced for a limited period between 1949 and 1952, it stands apart from the brand's more tool-oriented offerings, showcasing a sophisticated aesthetic that appeals to collectors seeking horological complexity from Rolex.
This self-winding chronometer is powered by the Caliber A.295 CPL 10 1/2" movement, featuring 17 jewels. The case, available in yellow gold, pink gold, or stainless steel, houses a silver sunburst dial, often referred to as 'cadran soleil argent,' with applied gold baton and dot numerals. It displays the date via a central gilt hand on an outer blue ring, with day and month indicated through angular apertures. A subsidiary dial at 6 o'clock combines moon phases with constant seconds. The case features a snap-on back and calendar correctors integrated into the band.
The Reference 8171 is highly regarded for its distinctive design and rarity, particularly the pink gold variants, which were produced in smaller quantities. Its large diameter, clean lines, and comprehensive calendar display contribute to its enduring appeal in the vintage watch market. The presence of original dial features, such as sharp apertures and uniform patina, is a key factor for collectors assessing authenticity and condition.
Specifications
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- Case
- Pink Gold
- Diameter
- 38 mm
- Dial
- Silver sunburst
