Vintage
DrStrong's investigation into Tiffany & Co. double-signed Rolex sports models offers a crucial historical and collector's perspective on these distinctive timepieces. This article delves into the origins and characteristics of Rolex watches retailed by Tiffany & Co., providing valuable context for understanding their unique appeal and provenance. DrStrong's research, prompted by his own acquisition of a Tiffany-signed Submariner ref. 5513, illuminates a fascinating chapter in Rolex collecting.
The purchase of my Tiffany & Co. Submariner ref. 5513 has made me investigate a bit about the Rolex Sports models double signed by the NYC retailer.
Tiffany & Co. is a U.S. jewelry and silverware company founded by Charles Lewis Tiffany and Teddy Young in New York City in 1837. The store initially sold a wide variety of stationery items, and operated as Tiffany, Young and Ellis in lower Manhattan. The name was shortened to Tiffany & Co in 1853 when Charles Tiffany took control, and the firm's emphasis on jewelry was established. Tiffany's flagship store (since 1940) is located at the corner of Fifth Avenue and 57th Street in Manhattan , New York City .
The Tiffany & Co. Rolex are “ordinary” Rolex (i.e. with no technical specificities) with the retailer’s name added on the dial. Apparently, the marking was sometimes done in NY “by a watchmaker with a pencil and paint”, sometimes by the dial manufacturer under the control of the New York City store
There are not many information available about these watches, but here’s what I have been able to put together…
Apparently, Tiffany & Co. started to put their name on the Rolex they were selling in the late 1950’s: I have found a Tiffany & Co. ad featuring a Rolex dated 1959. Here’s a late 1950's Explorer ref. 6610 with a very uncommon early marking (Photo O.E.):
In the early 1960’s the marking is still the same, like on this Explorer reference 1016:
In the mid 1960’s, the Tiffany & Co. marking becomes different, with a somewhat thicker font like on this Submariner ref. 5512 (Photo BJSOnline):
Or my Submariner ref. 5513:
The same kind of markings appears on this 1960’s Cosmograph ref. 6239 (Photo: Philipp Stahl):
Or this late 1960’s Submariner ref. 5513 with papers:
In the 1970’s, the markings seem to become more “standard”, like on this Submariner with date ref. 1680 (Photo Andrew Shear):
This 1655 Freccione:
or this Cosmograph ref. 6263 (Photo Paul Boutros):
In the seventies, some rare birds have obviously been issued: here are several examples of Red Submariner ref. 1680 and Double Red Sea Dweller ref. 1665, with a Tiffany & Co. marking that may be either white or red (Photos Forstephan):
Here’s another special watch, a very rare Milgauss ref. 1019 (Photo nbtimes):
And a “rail dial” Sea Dweller ref. 1665, with a very odd and tiny marking (Photo Forstephan):
A more important number of watches has been issued in the “sapphire era” until the early 1990’s. These watches can more easily be found with the original box and papers. The box is a specific light green box and the papers bear the name of the retailer.
Here’s a rare Submariner ref. 16800:
A Submariner ref. 16610:
An Explorer ref. 16550:
And a Cosmograph ref. 16520:
In conclusion, we can observe that almost every Rolex sport model has been retailed by Tiffany & Co.; there are important variations of the font type used for the dial markings over the years, which makes the expertise of these watches very complicated. As usual, the collector looking for such a watch must focus on the provenance, although this might be difficult for a vintage piece.
I would be happy to have more informations about these watches, so feel free to add your contribution.
This message has been edited by DrStrong on 2008-12-08 04:40:26
Rolex Submariner Reference 5512
The Submariner reference 5512 represents Rolex's no-date variant within the Submariner series. Distinguished by its clean dial layout without date complication, this reference was produced from 1962 to 1989, spanning nearly three decades of manufacturing.
The 40mm stainless steel case houses either caliber 1560 or 1570 automatic movements, providing 42-48 hours of power reserve. The watch features a black dial, unidirectional rotating bezel with aluminum insert, and acrylic crystal. Water resistance extends to 200 meters, with the watch fitted to a stainless steel bracelet.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking the fundamental Submariner aesthetic without date functionality. The extended production period and dual caliber usage create multiple variations within the 5512 designation. The no-date configuration offers symmetrical dial proportions that attract purists within the collecting community.
The 1655, for example... And what to say about this Red 1680, with a White " Submariner ", but a Red " Tiffany "? Wow, didn't know that, my friend. I also saw a " Tiffany " 1675, and missed it for quite nothing a few years ago...Too bad. Tell me, is this co branding that interesting in a Rolex Collection? Best, and thanks for your great work, once again, Jeff. Nicolas
Thanks, Dr. Strong for giving us very exciting informations Very nice "story" n photos. Best Chung
with Tiffany on the dial? MTF
and very sexy pieces in my eyes ;-) Cheers Jeff
But it 's difficult to say yes to so many appealing watches... Sadly. Best, my friend. Nicolas
Here another small Tiffany meter first Redsub and it's like Stephane's white 1665 i once bought on Ebay for euro 5k ;- ) Rgrds.P
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