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Baron - Mr Red's insightful post challenges the common perception of Rolex, arguing that its true innovation lies not in complex horological breakthroughs, but in its unwavering commitment to reliability, integrity, and robustness. He traces this philosophy back to Hans Wilsdorf's foundational principles, highlighting how early chronometer certifications set the stage for Rolex to become the quintessential adventurer's watch. This article explores the core identity of Rolex, prompting readers to reconsider what truly defines innovation in watchmaking.
Rolex doesn’t grab the headlines for its innovations. Houses like Patek Philippe and Jaeger LeCoultre have their histories replete with examples of ingenious horological breakthroughs and clever, highly complicated innovations. Rolex seemingly sails under the radar in this area. However, having given this some thought, it occurs to me that understanding the true nature of Rolex is at the heart of its innovation persona. Rolex is not about complications. It is not about novelties and quirky functions. Rolex is about fairly ruthless reliability. If one owns a Rolex, one expects it to be totally dependable and for it to fulfill its functionality in the toughest of environments. Reliability. Integrity. Robustness. These are all words that spring to mind when I think Rolex. What jumps to my mind when I think of Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar? Certainly not Rolex. However, what springs to my mind when I think of exploring, diving, travelling……. Uhm….Explorer 1, Submariner, GMT. Rolex is the watch that Indiana Jones would have not just worn, but would have needed. OK, maybe I am a touch biased, but to my mind, Rolex invented the Adventurer’s Watch.
Proof? Well, I think it is worth touching on some of the historical roots. I don’t think it is necessary to trawl through each and every part of history to garner a flavour, but some historical context provides the aperitif for the more recent innovations.
With Rolex, knowing what was “the beginning” is harder than it seems. I am going to start at 1910, five years after the company Wilsdorf & Davis Ltd was born. In 1910, Rolex sent their movement to the School of Horology in Switzerland where their watch was awarded the world’s first chronometer rating. This was followed in 1914 by a Class “A” Certificate of Precision from the British Kew Observatory. Again, this was a first. These tests of accuracy were performed under varying conditions of stress. Wilsdorf decided that this Certificate of Accuracy was going to be something that every single Rolex would have. Sometimes a watch manufacturer loses its way. One can think of many examples where this has happened. But, I would argue that the success that Rolex has today stems from never truly having departed from the key principles laid down by Hans Wilsdorf back in 1910. The word Rolex was to be synonymous with reliability. In terms of innovations, I would argue that these accuracy tests laid the foundation for pretty much everything that Rolex was to become.
Building on this success, Rolex went on to introduce a number of crucial horological innovations. The first self-winding watch was offered to the public by Rolex in 1931. Some say it was never released until 1933, but if we say between 1931-33 we can be safe. The Bubbleback. What was this innovation really about? Well, not needing to wind the watch manually removed the risk of forgetting to wind it. For an explorer, or diver, one can see how such a complication will have been so useful. Of many complications that a modern watch has today, I find the automatic function one of my favourites. I have heard many people argue than the action of manually winding their watch provides great pleasure. Of course, I can see that, but equally the marvel of translating potential energy of body movement into powering a watch is similarly a wonder. This innovation also allowed the power to the mainspring to be kept more consistent, thereby allowing more reliable time-keeping. Reliability. Accuracy. Pragmatism.
It is, perhaps, the arena of diving where Rolex is most well-known. As mentioned, Rolex pioneered the waterproof watch, and then went on to make it more and more waterproof. In an effort to demonstrate how Rolex wanted to be seen as pushing the envelope on reliability under stress, Wilsdorf had a Rolex specially manufactured and subsequently attached to the side of the Trieste Bathyscape, the vessel that went to the bottom of the Mariana Trench. Jacques Piccard telegram-ed Wilsdorf following the successful dive;
But expertise in water was not the core of Rolex. It is the issue of reliability under varying stresses that is the DNA, in my view.
A common theme runs through many, if not all of these horological landmarks. Sometimes it is the simple things that make such a difference. This leads me neatly into the current era. As technology has advanced, so the potential complications in a watch have risen exponentially. Soon, there will be a watch that can wash the dishes too. I feel fairly certain that Rolex will not be a pioneer in that direction. Where Rolex will be a pioneer is in its core competences; reliability, accuracy, and performance under pressure. It is worth looking at some of the recent patents and innovations from Rolex.
Innovation, however, can take place not just inside the watch case. Take the Submariner transition from 16800 to 168000 in 1980s. To look at these two watches, they appear identical. There is only one difference really, and that is the new type of steel used in the latter model. What makes the Submariner 168000 special is the fact that it was this reference that introduced the use of steel 904L instead of steel 316L that was used before. Why the change? It is all about attention to detail.
How did Rolex notice that a new steel was needed? Rolex discovered that watches that had been taken in the sea sometimes had water trapped in some of the caseback threading. Sitting in these threads for years (presumably between services), the chemicals in the water caused a reaction with the 316L steel….causing corrosion and pitting. Rolex tested the steel and found that it was susceptible to certain types of corrosion.
With the 168000, Rolex moved to 904L, a steel with a different composition – containing more nickel and chromium. Furthermore, 904L is also more resistant to chloride. Since it would be expected that a Submariner would be used in the sea, switching to a steel that was especially resistant to the chloride in the sea seemed straightforward. But actually, it is far from straightforward.
The idea that Rolex is falling behind other manufacturers in terms of innovation seems to be a criticism that is commonplace. I think it is an unfair criticism. One can quite simply locate the patent application pages for Rolex applications to see just how active Rolex have been. If anyone wants that, just PM me. Over the last 12 months, I can see no less than eleven new patent applications, ranging from an optimised balance wheel assembly, an articulated bracelet design through to atomic oscillators.
The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 is notable as the first Submariner model to feature a date complication, marking a significant evolution for the line. Introduced in the late 1960s, it bridged the gap between the earlier no-date Submariners and later iterations, offering enhanced functionality while retaining the robust characteristics of the professional tool watch. This reference is distinguished by its single cyclops date magnifier on the crystal, a feature that would become a hallmark of many subsequent Rolex models.
This reference typically features a 40mm steel case, housing the self-winding Caliber 1575 movement. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The crystal is acrylic, commonly referred to as Plexiglas, contributing to its vintage aesthetic. Water resistance for the 1680 is rated at 200 meters, consistent with its design as a reliable underwater instrument.
For collectors, the reference 1680 is highly sought after, particularly early examples with "Red Submariner" dials where the word "Submariner" is printed in red. These variants represent a distinct period in Rolex's production history and are prized for their rarity and aesthetic appeal. The 1680 appeals to those who appreciate the blend of historical significance, functional design, and the tangible qualities of vintage Rolex manufacturing.
This is a good pleading for Rolex. You mentionned all what we sue to read about and against Rlex, but it was fair- and necessary- to recal all whar rolex did and still does, for watchlovers. Cirticism is good, too, and there will be also a lot to say about the current collection, but yes, it was good to read all the ideas, concepts, innovations and ameliorations Rolex achieved all over these years. There are two or three things to hilight: 1/ Rolex does some of the most amazing and achieved brac
Thank you very much for the thoroughness. I love reading about the history of these watch companies. I learned a great deal from your article and that much more educated =D Greatly appreciate it.
.....it is exactly spot on. Reminds me of a joke I know. A man discovers a leaking pipe in his attic. He calls a plumber. The plumber takes his hammer and taps the pipe in several places. Then, on the fourth tap he says the problem is fixed. He charges ÂŁ100 for the 5 mins work. The man complains to the plumber that it only took 5 mins, so ÂŁ100 is expensive. The plumber explains...."5 mins to tap the pipe, but 25 years of experience in knowing where to tap the pipe." This is how it feels with Rol
A few low key, but solid improvements over the years equate to a solid watch. Good job Rolex, and I know that Rolex is the definitive watch for someone who needs pure reliability and dependability. Great watch! No matter what!
....my 16600 has been my chosen watch for technical diving since I got it, and has but up with a lot of abuse! Made for the job, the ultimate tool watch for me! Of course, my 2 vintage are treated with kid gloves, but I'm pretty sure the 1680 (given the appropriate service first) could also take the punishment, but the risk if needing a dial replacement during serive puts me off!! Again, great post Joe. Cheers Tony
The one thing I've struggled to understand is their use of a jeweled post instead of ball bearings for the majority of their simple (non-daytona/sky dweller/yatch master II) movements which is widely known to result in main plate wear from the rotor (I've seen this with my own eyes). I fully expect them to continue to improve their movements slowly over time, and I'm sure I won't be disappointed.
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