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An opportunity arises as the industry changes.
The traditional higher end brands have decreased the hand work that goes into their movements over time. As they have done this, opportunities open for watches like the present example where the finishing is probably not that different and achieved with some of the same approaches.
There are a lot of examples of this. PP moved from the Geneva Seal to the PP seal. Lange was designed with the display back in mind, but has eschewed some labor intensive elements of finishing and skimped on the dial side. VC adheres to the Geneva Seal, but has less hand anglage than one would ordinarily expect (see the peripheral rotor tourbillon for an example with no sharp interior angles). There is machine anglage on AP movements. PP and AP have a lot of stamped dials.
Rolex Perpetual 1908
This is a really nice watch that I look forward to seeing in person, especially the YG/black dial combo. Apologies if there's already a thread about this - didn't see it! ...
It's nice, but for the money, I'd rather get a Vacheron Constantin Patrimony or Traditionelle in manual wind.
Yes, in a vacuum, it's nice. But when compared to other existing products on the market like a Lange Saxonia or Lange 1815 or a Vacheron Constantin Patrimony or Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle, you can get much higher quality watches from a much higher ...
Not any more :)
A basic Lange 1815 is now $10K USD more than this 1908, as of last week. And I would definitely pick the Lange 1815 over this Rolex. But I find the dial and overall aesthetic of the Rolex 1908 to be much nicer than the Lange Saxonia, VC Patrimony, VC Trad...
I really like the look of the VCs and the older 40mm Lange 1815.
Ahh, right, Lange had that price increase recently.
I know it's controversial, but I'm personally a big fan of these rolex open casebacks
I hope it eventually trickles down to the rest of the lines
Interesting. I wonder why a display back would be controversial on a dressier watch that has no "tool watch" history.
I get the controversy on many Omegas, though (and tend to dislike display backs on Omegas). I'm keeping an open mind about this one for now.
A step to recognition
A silly title i typed. Rolex is highly recognized. But i could not understand the way Rolex do not want us to see a movement. Working horses, no lust to decorate a movement, be doing wat is doing for decades. For water resistance it is cheaper to use clos...
Does anybody know
Is it a screw down crown? Since it's an automatic, a screw down crown would not interfere with winding.
Yes, you right
The prince is the only one. Not my taste, but the 1908 is round and the watch i hoped for Rolex came up on one day. Sure a brand must do wat they want, but to get me, a brand better can look at PP and make me happy. I always loved PP making pristine watch...
In addition to the Ti Yacht-Master, I think the 1908 is Rolex’s best 2023 release.
Would I still rather have a 38mm VC Traditionnelle? Yes. But kudos to Rolex for entering the arena with a very attractive and thin dress watch that’s not a Cellini and that can potentially evolve into a line of multiple complicated offerings. I’m excited ...
I'm pretty intrigued, too!
I agree that for the money I'd rather have a Lange Saxonia... but I already have a Lange Saxonia!
Would love to see more complications in the 1908 line.
I think that will make this new line of dress watches competitive with other brands and appealing to those in the market
The combination of black dial and yellow gold is very handsome
But it needs smaller case. A 36-37 mm will be perfect for this kind of watch.
A gentleman's watch with a movement superior in reliability and durability to a Lange or Patek.
10 year service intervals, etc. If we look only at anglage (a historically recent obsession, and one that misses a lot about horology), then we lose what's interesting about this watch.
You may be right, but how can we know that now about a brand new movement?
I'd like to believe this "just because it's Rolex," but the 32xx movements undermined my confidence in that regard. Both of my watches with 32xx movements went back prematurely. I've had better luck with what are now vintage Rolex movements. I'm sure the ...
That's fair, although the 32xx line has been out since 2016 (iirc?), it seems pretty successful with some early kinks worked out.
I hear you on the 31xx being tanks.
Would have been perfect
Without the "superlative chronometer" text... And maybe traditional quarter hours on the subdial. The more interesting question for me is, why would this succeed where Cellini failed? In a vacuum, I find the Cellini moon phase a undeniably attractive watc...
Not a big fan of the case shape and coin edge type bezel. Just a personal preference. I’m sure it’s well made..
Movement-wise, prefer a manual or micro rotor for the display back.
Love the white gold version
but, don't think it will ever get to ordinary folks like me ☹️
Mmmm
I like the idea but the dials should be improved. The clasp with crown is identical to that of the old day date strap 11813x
Thanks for sharing
I really like the WG version an interesting release and one I look forward to seeing in the flesh. But I think the 1815 in pink gold stole my heart a while ago ….
I like this very much.
I'd choose this over the 6119. As for the VCs-it would be nice to compare in person. But there doesn't seem to be anything not to like here.
An opportunity arises as the industry changes.
The traditional higher end brands have decreased the hand work that goes into their movements over time. As they have done this, opportunities open for watches like the present example where the finishing is probably not that different and achieved with s...
Quite right.
One brand you didn’t mention, and one that I,at least, haven’t seen any lowering of standards, is Breguet. The quality of finishing seems to have started back with the Chaumet Brothers; carried through the Investcorp days; and has been upheld by Swatch. ...
Can you say more about "Lange ... skimped on the dial side"?
I hadn't heard that before and am curious about it. Thanks!
This is just an opinion.
Lange includes features designed to make their display backs visually striking. The dial side of the movements are much more plain. In the past with many brands (and I think still the case with VC), the dial side and back side were closer in finishing. I ...
Rolex-specific terminology...
In Rolex-land, perpetual means automatic or self-winding, a term they've been using since the 1930's, when they invented and were the first to offer that type of movement. Anywhere else, perpetual typically means what you are alluding to, e.g. a perpetual...
personally
I find this release quite intriguing as it shows Rolex is making efforts to diversify its offerings away from sports models. The Cellini range needed a facelift and this is a great effort in that. I am curious to see how it feels on the wrist so will rese...