Mark in Paris
[Purist]
10488
Well, no "defending" matter but rather that I like widening the point of views
I'm not here to look after the brand but when I see that an issue is presented from only one side, I like bringing the others. I always try to put things back into perspective and try to keep a larger view on matters. I like that exercize. That's why I try to put the subjective aspects aside, keeping only tangible elements.
Thus, when dealing with movements, I like looking a what other similar companies have in terms of:
- in-house or not: the latter is "laziness" or not financially interesting enough. Patek has in-house only now which means they made the developement efforts and that their calibers come out of their work and not from others. I like knowing I have a bit of Patek's watchmakers and philosophy in my movement (perfect example is 29-535 with all the smart and simple improvements they included)
- movement size compared to other traditional high-end brands: 215 I agree is perfect for a woman's watch size. otherwise, I had a look again at my 240 as I was washing my 5712: it is just gorgeous. People should really have a side by side analysis to judge (what I did).
- diversity of movements to other traditional high-end brands: very significant as there is nearly all kind of calibers (and not the easier complications, first for the AC, first for the Chrono-PC combination, the ultra small CHR 29-525 from the 5959, I don't talk about the MRs etc...). Their number and level of finishing, accuracy and reliability are top notch imho (again for similar high-end brands, not someone doing 100 pieces a year).
All that while keeping the watches (thus movements) rather thin (easy to make a 100 complications in a football baloon volume, harder to optimize room). Same for all kind of subjects we discussed on this forum lately. There are things that need improving of course but while in fairness and with the right balance imho. I will always defend that.
I didn't come (late) at Patek because of the image or investment grade, I came closer to Patek because it took me a while to understand it correctly and be able to judge what they are worth. Not perfect but when digging you realize their reputation is deserved.
Thus, when someone says one half, I'll say the other half. I think this is one of the aims of such a place: to increase our knowledge about this little watcmaking world we appreciate so much 
Cheers Kari,
Mark
This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2016-03-24 13:58:31
Patek Philippe's new collection in Basel - some impressions
What a day! I must say that Brussels was in everybody's mind and it gave a sad flavour to the day. The first surprise was: "Photography prohibited" in the private presentation. Naturally, I asked for explanation and it was about "the pictures might end to...
Thank you for this comprehensive review
I like the fact that for each watch you have said whether you would put your name on the list or not. Was there anything about 5235G? any word whether the production is going to resume or not?
No discussion at all.
Ref. 5235G was presented as a part of the regular collection. Best, Kari
Thanks for the great write up..
really valuable to have impressions from someone so knowledgable handling the pieces. The 5374P is perfection indeed and destined for very few wrists (and not mine sadly). Otherwise there is nothing in the collection that I would add to my own. Like you I...
Indeed, 5110P is hard to beat.
Mine is in the spa and it will shine again when coming back. Have a look at 5496P. One can understand the beauty only by handling the watch. Wait and see what kind of Anniversary Nautilus we will get. Perhaps something there will make you excited. Best, K...
Thank you for the hands on reviews.
I like the 5930 a lot. I\'m not sure why they would combine a chrono and a world time watch, but hey my 2 favourite complications so I\'m not complaining. Add the guilloche dial and it\'s a real winner. 30 mins does seem short for the chrono though, makes...
It is a nice watch
but can still be improved. Perhaps the 2nd generation... Best, Kari
Thank you, Kari ...
for having to 'struggle' through the private screening. ;-) The 5712 ~ a tried and true piece that is still stunning. My favorite Nautilus. The 5496: is the dial just brushed or is there some kind of guilloché pattern? I would love to see it in the metal ...
True, 5712 looks as fresh as 10 years ago.
The dial of 5496P is vertically brushed. It's quite interesting with all applied RG markers. It has an interesting vintage feel. Best to wonderful Honolulu! Kari
I only like the Breguet numerals on the 5950 dial,
because they match the curvy case. Thank you, Kari! Marcelo
It is naturally a matter of taste.
Anyhow, in 2016 there are a lot of Breguet numerals available for the fans of those. Best, Kari
Thank you for the write up!
There is a waiting list for the 5712?? It\'s so heavily discounted and available everywhere in the US. Also I find your love for the platinum versions very interesting. You are one of the only patek collectors I have met who have that. For certain models ...
That's news to me!
I did not know that 5712/1A would be "heavily discounted and available everywhere in the US". For sure that's not the case in Europe. I am not a collector so please don't compare. All of my watches are for wearing and there are no collectors' pieces. It i...
In fairness
By heavily I meant for patek levels other brands can get big discounts, for pateks my friend jokes that anything more than 5% is a big discount! But yes the 5712 sells poorly in the secondary market in the us and I know multiple dealers that have it here ...
In fairness
I do not care at all which reference sells well and which not. Furthermore, call it stupidity, I am not after rebates. However, I know it is a very American thing. For me a collector and "lover" are two different things. I understand a collector as a pers...
I appreciate the rare watch lover that you are
So tired of seeing great Pateks sealed and in bank safes. I love that you wear and enjoy yours!
I do not see any point in having watches unused stored into safes.
Let's face a couple of facts: - if one wants to do solid investments, i.e. blue chip stock is a better one - watches if used are not depreciating much more than unused if they are kept in good condition, serviced and papers & boxes stored. It's good to re...
I agree with your facts
Which is why I wear everything too! And invest in stocks or real estate and not watches. I also agree that sealed but unworn (meaning, likely in need of a service, with expired papers) is less attractive than recently serviced and under warranty, so we ca...
Nice to hear that some people share my logic.
In the end the ratio of a wristwatch is to tell the time. Best, Kari
Thank you for your personal collector's words
Dear Kari, I have to admit that with each picture of your report, I wondered why they forbid photographs during the presentation? All the efforts they put into new models presented to you in person are somewhat disgraced by zoo-like pictures. Once the mod...
Yes, it was amazing that photography was prohibited.
I did not believe my ears when I heard this and before going for the presentation this issue was checked by "Chief Policy officer on Duty". Lol! Sometimes Patek is a bit snobbish and old fashioned. I do not know the ratio behind the "no-photos - policy" b...
Hi Kari, As usual, a great write-up by you, and hope that your wife enjoyed 1 or 2 ...
glasses of champagne ! Thanks for providing your comments on these new pieces. Will definitely take your comments into consideration when I see the new collection eventually. The 5131R looks great and you should add your name for it. Having a G on the lef...
I will revert later to 5539
I will not put my name to the waiting list of 5131R. Such a watch belongs to a person who would wear it more. I have some issues because of the brightness of the watch and I am happy to admire it from distance. I am not buying watches because of their val...
I am in oil and oil shipping business
and watch flipping I leave to others. Furthermore, there are people who would love to get 5131R like our Moderator so let's hope them the best of luck! Kari
The dial of 5539G
Is really nice. I wanted to get the same to another Patek reference but my application did not go through. Seeing this watch now, I understand why. But who cares! A lot of money was saved. I am not a big fan of tourbillon on a wrist watch and 37 mm is a b...
thank you kari for
Your baselworld report. Love to read a very honest and impressive review about the new patek references. I must admit that i am very eager to see the 5930G and 5170R (black dial) in the metal. I am hoping that the waiting list for the 5930 in particular i...
Better to be honest...
For me Patek is #1 but not perfect. I guess the watch sales are melting so for sure you will get yours. All the best! Kari
The WT chrono makes sense
and it would have made even more sense if it was a 12h chrono in order to enable the traveller to time his journey. But also as a 30 min chrono I am sure it will find lots of likes as it is dressy and sporty too. I agree that the 5146 P is the most attrac...
Dear Count,
we obviously travel differently. I do not see much point in WT plus chronograph. My dream complication for travelling would be Perpetual + WT. Don't worry: the new perpetual feels slim on the wrist. Best Kari
And please understand:
chrono plus WT is great. But I would rather combine to WT something more travel related. Best Kari
I would time my journeys, for sure and even moreif a 12h chrono is at hand.
It would be one "odd" thing more in my life to do ! Best Moritz
My trips are longer
and 24 hours counter would be needed. But to Hawaii it takes 28 hours in average... Best, Kari
Well yes and no
My opinion is that a PC is not really travel related or more "coherent" with a WT complication, even if I prefer a PC over the WT. I just base my feeling on the "relevance" aspect. Furthermore, do you imagine coupling a WT setting with the PC date display...
Use the dial of 5496
and develop the WT in such a way that it can be adjusted to both directions. Then mark clearly the date line and: a perfect business traveller's watch. I mean in my opinion... Best, Kari
Very interesting suggestion about the chrono counter
Furthermore, I confirm the new 5327 has no hinged back. I imagine it would have been quite more expensive (around 8 or 10 K€ from the 5227's price ?) and what will people say about the next generation if the hinged back is dropped? I think people may comp...
No reason to cover the beautiful movement and
as the watch belongs to Grand Complication collection, it is delivered with both solid and see-through case backs. Finally, the hinged one would add the thickness and thus spoil the (perfect) lines of the watch. Best, Kari
Wow. Thank you for the write-up.
A lot of effort went into this, obviously. I also do not see the point in combining the 30 min chrono with WT. Maybe a 12 hour, but a PP makes much more sense.
You are so very welcome.
I think if one wants to enjoy this forum in full, it's also good to contribute a bit. Best, Kari
That's a great opinion overview
Funny as the WT + Chrono is a combo that is questionned in that case and not in other references (or watches from any other brands) like other combinations we see mostly have no specific interactions in common either. Furthermore, I agree there are some n...
Believe me Mark,
you should not have a close look at 5327R. The dial is simply perfect. The lugs are fantastic. And the case back is made in a very clever way so that 240Q looks like it would be just the right size for the watch. This watch is really appealing for anybody...
Don't do that!
Your sleep is spoiled and you will add one more option to your "buy list". Trust me, it's a beautiful and eternal watch. Just like perpetual should be. I have a feeling that even Philippe Stern accepts it as it's the style of his regime. Best, Kari
I'm glad you say that
I think it is a little underestimated in the context of the first week excitement. I'm sure it will gently and peacefully settle as a gorgeous and successful PC-only reference. And I like to have dream watches I'm not able to get too! Cheers, Mark
What I like in this watch is that I will feel and look perfect after tens of years,
just look at Philippe Stern's perpetual. Furthermore, cal. 240Q is already an old, well proven and solid movement. And it does not harm that it also looks pretty fantastic. My maths goes as follows: 5327 + 5170 is much more than 5270. Best, Kari
Thank you for the summary. The close up picture of 5327...
was especially useful in revealing the fact that some date numbers, especially 5, are still smaller than the rest. The difference is subtle maybe 10%, not as pronounced as the 5140, but still there. So, 3940 still holds the title for the perfect date ring...
Excellent trip report
makes good read for those of us less fortunate in not being able to attend. Reading your report I sense your disappointment in white metal novelties and a general softening towards colored metals. I used to be a white metal only person myself. I can still...
Hi, I wasn't really disappointed but
I am a bit surprised that Patek Philippe intends to pass the coming difficult times mostly by just polishing the old collection. I have been waiting for long a replacement for 215 movement (even it's a good one) as well as 240. I agree with you: the new 5...
I must say I don't think I'm on the same line here
for once! First, changing movement for changing movement is not a thing I'm look for (except the 215). The 324, 240, 28-520 are great stuff for their level (I don't talk about the manual chronograph 29-535 or higher complications where the movement are re...
It's good to be of different opinion and you made me smile!
Dear Mark, You defend Patek like a bear defends her cubs... I did not (strongly) criticise but I believe Patek can do better. Not necessarily that much but better. I nearly agree what you say about the movements. Cal. 215 is too small for gents watches an...
Well, no "defending" matter but rather that I like widening the point of views
I'm not here to look after the brand but when I see that an issue is presented from only one side, I like bringing the others. I always try to put things back into perspective and try to keep a larger view on matters. I like that exercize. That's why I tr...
Wow Mark - that was a long reply.
I agree "99%" with you. Furthermore, I did not go for Patek because of resale prices or fame. I sincerely like the products, philosophy and people. Some people even claim that I'm a hard core Patek fan... True or not, I have a close emotional relationship...
Indeed but an interesting subject :)
I watched a video of an interview of T. Stern back in 2014 during Baselworld and the question was about movement new technologies. He said that they have ideas about new movements but the problem is not about releasing them but doing so with high accuracy...
An interesting video, thanks.
So let's see if the anniversary of Nautilus will bring something new. However, I do not believe that there will be totally new movements but perhaps something interesting. I was told "new dials" but these comments are basically worthless because Patek is ...
Thanks dr k
As a hard core Patel fan ,I am a bit ambivalent. Basel is to watches what quarterly reporting is to a listed company. Short term performance and change just for the sake of it To me it is a it. Same-same but different. I mean how many different combinatio...
What a wonderful review Kari! A lot of admiration for your ...
great review but also for your philosophy. Like you I dislike the word "collector". I also buy (on a much smaller scale of course!) only watches that I will use. No point in collecting amazing watches -- or better said art pieces -- in the plastic or the ...
Thank you Christian a lot.
Sometimes it makes sense to let some watches go. As an example I bought last May 5134G with black dial. I like the watch a lot but somehow it does not end up to my wrist. Let's see. Watch collecting especially when keeping them unused makes as much sense ...
Great review Kari!
My preference would be the 5327 albeit in white gold and a black dial. That would be a first for a Patek PC, no?
It would be even nicer
if the black dial would be enamel and the case platinum. Best, Kari
Quite rare but the 5139G has a black dial currently
This combination would look great indeed. Here, it is a black lacquered dial. Cheers, Mark ...
I have quite an opinion about lacquer versus enamel in terms of look
and I'll keep it for myself as it won't be politically correct On the craftmanship level (skills required, know-how, difficulty to realize) this is a whole different story of course. Cheers, Mark