Any thoughts on this Urban Jurgensen

Jul 24, 2019,04:05 AM
 

This is a rare stainless steel UJ 1140 ie it is in 40mm and spots the proprietary P4 movement.  Limited to only fifty pieces, the UJ1140 had previously only been produced in precious metals so this stainless steel case is a welcome departure. Unlike salmon or rose gold dials adopted by other manufacturers, Urban Jurgensen has opted for a champagne coloured dial or if you like light yellow gold plated guilloche dial which is quite unique in its colour. The 32mm movement is made exclusively for Urban Jurgensen by Chronode which is headed Jean Francois Mojon. The finishing is exemplary.  A nice touch is the suede strap to give the watch a more casual look.


Yesterday, I posted a Grossmann v Grossmann thread. How would you rate this UJ against the Grossmann Hamatic and the Grossmann Power Reserve Vintage?

Thank you for reading.









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Thank you very much Nico!

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-04:27
I don't know how you do it but you are generally the first to reply to my posts! I like the Urban Jurgensen as it in steel and the dial is gorgeous in my opinion. Anyway, I already own a lovely Mortitz Grossmann so perhaps I should seriously consider this... 

I think so too!

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-04:45
Quite ironically, my last two watch purchases have been steel watches and I have two steel Pateks incoming this year and next. Maybe being retired only allows me to consider cheaper watches or perhaps I am finally getting more mature horologically and app... 

I like the way you said that I will 'need' one!!

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-04:52
I have seen a couple of our friend, Mike H's Laurent Ferrier's which are lovely but I prefer my watches manually wound unless we are talking about that Moritz Grossmann Hamatic!

As an alternative...

 
 By: jleno : July 24th, 2019-17:58
I'll suggest the Parmigiani Kalpa Hebdomadaire. These are priced very well for what they are. Perhaps a bit more expensive than the UJ, but you get a rose gold case+deployant clasp, 8 day power reserve, and a manual wind movement that looks like nothing e...  

Thank you for your suggestion

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-20:43
but somehow I have never really fallen for Parmigiani's offerings. I have met the man and he is a lovely chap but am somehow not too keen on his watches especially the rectangular ones.

The Parmigiani designs are definitely on the quirkier side and not to everyone's taste

 
 By: jleno : July 24th, 2019-21:30
My hope is that these will show up heavily discounted on the grey/secondary market in the near future as a result Regardless, I think the UJ would make more sense in your case given that the MGs you mentioned are very similar in style to your piece unique... 

I am pretty sure

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-21:55
that you are right about the Parmigiani in the used market. In fact, I think Grossmann may be affected similarly. I have just sent an email directly to Soren Peterson, the CEO of UJ who I had met once to ask him how I can obtain this watch. If it is meant... 

I look forward to reading your posts Nico!

 
 By: sham1 : July 25th, 2019-02:09
Thanking you in advance.

So true!

 
 By: sham1 : July 25th, 2019-02:47
Some spirits are more obvious than others

Sham1, do consider another look at the LF micro

 
 By: nwk00 : July 25th, 2019-02:54
The picture is by Peter Chong, hopefully he doesn't mind me sharing it here. The quality is pretty incredible. Like you, I had issues with automatics in general but made an exception for this and the new Grossmann auto. Look at the inward angles, black po...  

Thank you for your reply!

 
 By: sham1 : July 25th, 2019-03:00
The Laurent Ferrier micro rotor is undoubtedly the best finished micro rotor in the market, I would not disagree. I prefer the MG Hamatic simply because instead of a micro rotor, the hammer and pendulum movement to me seems more attractive, perhaps due it...  

Haha it's on my short list too

 
 By: nwk00 : July 25th, 2019-03:05
I would get them both funds permitting.

Regrettably I am unable to join you in your quest

 
 By: sham1 : July 25th, 2019-03:12
My watch budget for 2019 has been used up. In fact so has the budget for 2020! So if I am lucky I will be able to get myself the above UJ 1140 in steel. I seriously hope you get the LF and Hamatic, especially the latter because MG really needs a bigger au... 

The watch nerd in me favours one underrated element of the LF micro-rotor: its natural escapement.

 
 By: skyeriding : July 25th, 2019-05:53
While finishing is arguably the most prominent feature of the LF, I find a natural escapement always fascinating. It was originally Breguet's idea two centuries ago, to have an escapement with (little to no) sliding friction, back in the days when modern ... 

Yayy for the Moritz Grossmann Hamatic!

 
 By: sham1 : July 25th, 2019-06:43
Nico, are you reading this?!!

I love the Galet Square in particular

 
 By: sham1 : July 25th, 2019-12:22
or one of the round Galet Micro Rotors but in 39mm instead of the standard 40mm

I guess that is the only way

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-10:46
one gets pass the 200,000 mark.

I realy like this UJ a lot . Love that Dial and the numerals

 
 By: Watchonthewrist : July 24th, 2019-04:50
👌🏻😘 thanks for the post my friend .

You are most welcome my friend and thank you for the feedback!

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-04:53
It is nice to buy a gorgeous watch that does not break the bank too badly for a change!

well, after owning mine for nearly 3 months....

 
 By: Izhik : July 24th, 2019-04:56
I can't recommend enough an UJ piece...it's also powered by a P4. somehow I cannot connect myself with the Grossmann pieces... ...  

You have a lovely Alfred!

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-10:24
I love everything about your watch apart from the 42mm diameter. I wish they had made it 40mm because I would choose it over the 1140 in steel.

honestly??...before deciding for the Alfred...

 
 By: Izhik : July 24th, 2019-10:52
I was also trying some other 1140 models in steel that they had at the manufacture in Biel...although my wrist is small, I simply felt the 1140 was too small for me...the 42mm is just perfect for me...

You are lucky my friend

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-10:55
as you have the right sized wrist to wear most watches. I unfortunately do not!

I agree totally!

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-11:38
With limited funds and only one watch to choose from, the 1140 seems like a wise choice. Could you tell me how accurate has your Alfred been?

my impression...+1-2sec/day....it's a superb caliber

 
 By: Izhik : July 24th, 2019-13:30
looking forward for your photos here...

That is amazing accuracy!

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-20:36
I am quite impressed by some of these brands that do not publish the accuracy of their movements but actually attain a higher accuracy than those that do publish theirs like Patek Philippe, Lange, Rolex and Grand Seiko. For the record, my Moritz Grossmann... 

hey, would you expect any compromise on that at this price segment??...

 
 By: Izhik : July 25th, 2019-01:23
at the end of the day, it's a high-end watch, and although people today are primarily focused on design, for me, a watch its foremost....a watch, not a piece of jewelery, so it must give the maximum as a time measuring instrument...well, just old school p... 

I could not agree with you more.

 
 By: sham1 : July 25th, 2019-01:31
Accuracy in a mechanical timepiece is the ultimate compliment to the watchmaker/manufacturer and an indication of a job well done. And I do expect it at any price range which is why two decades ago, I was overly impressed by the Nomos that I had bought wh... 

The Grossman is a nice watch but this UJ is much more special, if I can use this word

 
 By: ZSHSZ : July 24th, 2019-05:38
The dial is something you don’t see to often , and the applied numerals with that beautiful polish just pop. If choice given , I would go for the UJ in a heartbeat. Zsolt.

Thank you Zsolt for your valuable feedback!

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-10:27
Yes the dial is reminiscent of a Breguet or even a Voutilainen! I have made enquiries to a couple of London dealers since the UJ network does not cover South East Asia regrettably.

Very different watch

 
 By: nwk00 : July 24th, 2019-05:39
I like the case of the UJS. The Grossmann is a bit chunkier. So which exterior aesthetics that you prefer in the end is subjective. However, I would rate the Grossmann a few steps ahead in terms of finishing.

Thank you for chiming in!

 
 By: Spangles - Mr. Tabby : July 24th, 2019-05:58
I always want to learn more about finishing. Without putting you on the spot, could you say more about what makes the finishing better on the MG? I've only seen pictures of the UJ, but it looks like there are some interior angles chamfered, etc. I believe... 

Ok here is my take

 
 By: nwk00 : July 24th, 2019-06:39
I will just describe them. Using the MG Vintage as a reference(because I have experience with the Atum/Benu model), 1) there are gold chatons around the jewels, with screws to hold them down. This is simlar to Lange but MG went one step further. The chato... 

That is a great answer, thank you!

 
 By: Spangles - Mr. Tabby : July 24th, 2019-07:30
Now I need the dial and handset of UJ (guilloché, etc.) with the hand finishing of MG!

You need the finishing of...

 
 By: Cpt Scarlet : July 24th, 2019-09:05
KV and the price from Seiko

And the reliability from Rolex! [nt]

 
 By: Spangles - Mr. Tabby : July 24th, 2019-09:06

That would be the ultimate watch!!!

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-10:51
Who would need a collection?!! Just one such watch would be perfect!!

Yep 👍 [nt]

 
 By: Cpt Scarlet : July 24th, 2019-11:33

LOL ! [nt]

 
 By: Cpt Scarlet : July 24th, 2019-11:33

Somehow this might affect the price :-)

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-10:48
The finishing of the UJ is 'good enough' in my opinion. It is the dial we tend to see more of while wearing a watch

I am pretty sure you are right

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-10:40
that the people at MG spend more time hand finishing their watches - at least on their incomparable hands!! And I must thank you for your well thought of and elaborate reply comparing the finishing of both brands.

Great summary, though I'd like to add an important point - MG also polishes the ratchet&crown wheel teeth, something surprisingly uncommon to see but is a beautiful effect.

 
 By: skyeriding : July 25th, 2019-04:56
The raised chatons are another great point - while Lange needs to flat polish only the surface and inner concave of the chaton, MG has to also polish the outer flank/rim of it. The clear sapphires used also makes it distinctive in aesthetics over many oth... 

Totally!

 
 By: sham1 : July 25th, 2019-06:41
I have the privilege of knowing our esteemed friend personally and it is almost unfair that someone so young can be so knowledgeable!

Thank you my friend for enlightening us and especially enlightening me!

 
 By: sham1 : July 25th, 2019-06:40
I have always been in awe of the finishing at Moritz Grossmann which is said to be better than that of Lange, which is high praise indeed. Arguably it offers a more finely finished movement than the Urban Jurgensen but it is like saying that a Lange offer... 

Thank you very much for saying so!

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-10:35
I was beginning to wonder when someone would say something favourable about the Grossmann. I agree that the finishing of the Grossmann is superior to a Lange and even the UJ but we are in the golden age where movement finishing seems to have taken priorit... 

the dial is mesmerizing..

 
 By: woodman : July 24th, 2019-06:05
Although I like the decoration of the movement, the dial side really speaks to me. very nice choice

Thank you!

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-10:37
I agree that the dial takes some beating and in that unusual colour too. Afterall, it is the dial that we tend to stare at more than any other part of the watch.

I'm absolutely loving it!

 
 By: Pour le Mérite : July 24th, 2019-07:56
Pricetag is quite reasonable as well.

Yes making the watch in steel

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-10:41
is always a touch of genius at this price level. Laurent Ferrier did it and so did Patek with its new Calatrava 5212A. Imagine a steel Lange!

The Platinum Blue which I own

 
 By: watch-er : July 24th, 2019-14:41
...  

Thank you for sharing with us!

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-20:38
Very nice and I particularly like the raised numerals on yours.

UJ in a way has better value proposition...

 
 By: maverickmahesh : July 24th, 2019-15:32
great details on the dial, applied numerals, multiple guilloche & the tear drop lugs... speaking about the movement, strong offer too. Best, mahesh.,

Thanks Mahesh!

 
 By: sham1 : July 24th, 2019-20:40
UJ definitely offers better value than the Grossmann. It looks like the complete package especially in my preferred stainless steel case.

Just to say some words in favor of MG since I'm biased...

 
 By: jleno : August 2nd, 2019-13:00
Although the UJ is less expensive, I'm not quite sure I'd consider it better value. When you take into account the cost required to develop a unique complication like the hammer winder, the higher level of finishing, and the gold case, I think the MG more... 

Good point!

 
 By: sham1 : August 2nd, 2019-20:29
I must confess that it is difficult to ignore the movement of the Hamatic - what a refreshing change from any other movement let alone other automatic movements. I seriously need to try it on!!

I. Love. This. Watch. !!! How could I ever take it off??? While I've been a great fan of Grossmann ever since their "dawn," I find their present offerings a bit too refined.

 
 By: halgedahl : July 25th, 2019-09:17
Beautiful pieces, yes, but this… A heart stopper! Grab it!!! (And love the champagne, by the way.) Good luck with your choice. Best regards, FH

Thank you for your feedback and encouragement!

 
 By: sham1 : July 25th, 2019-10:46
I really wish I could try on the UJ before placing my order. The CEO, Soren Petersen, has kindly reserved one for me but I have always been worried about 40mm dress watches. Yes the UJ has nice lugs but.........we shall see!

Yes (sigh), trying a watch on.... The ultimate arbiter!

 
 By: halgedahl : July 25th, 2019-11:30
You certainly have a right to a reservation about 40mm. Of course this depends on wrist size. But what struck me immediately was the versatility of the piece. You, yourself, pointed to this mentioning that strap. So my thoughts about 40 may be more forgiv... 

I must confess

 
 By: sham1 : July 25th, 2019-11:41
that I did not expect so many responses to this piece especially only a day before I had posted a thread on two gorgeous Moritz Grossmann watches have received a third less views and responses. I always feel if a watch is meant to be mine, it will be

Reminds me of my KV

 
 By: Jke67245 : July 31st, 2019-13:04
...  

Your KV is spectacular

 
 By: sham1 : July 31st, 2019-13:20
and as you probably know that for many years, Kari spent a lot of time at Urban Jurgensen hence his influence noticeable on the guilloche dial and the hands. But the KV's movement takes some beating and is in a league above the UJ, as good as the UJ is.

Sublime! [nt]

 
 By: amanico : July 31st, 2019-13:41

I think you may be in error...

 
 By: watch-er : August 9th, 2019-12:32
The movement is an UJ in-house movement from everything I have heard and read on the P4. I know their older PCs were Fredric Piguet movements and they acknowledged this on their website.

I have it from reliable sources

 
 By: sham1 : August 9th, 2019-14:14
ie Monochrome Watches and SJX watches that confirm the the P4 movement is constructed by Jean Francois Mojon of Chronode. The older movements were Frederic Piguet as you correctly stated. Perhaps it is worth mentioning here that Kari Voutiainen and Jean F... 

Today, I finally managed to view the watch in London

 
 By: sham1 : September 9th, 2019-07:02
Unfortunately or perhaps fortunately, I found the dial colour not very appealing and the size of the watch a tad too large at 40mm. I did however buy myself a Rolex datejust in 36mm in steel. I shall cover that in a separate post. My first Rolex!!!

I’m happy you got something.

 
 By: DruidPadj : September 9th, 2019-07:31
I was worried you might let Vlad down.

I let my bank account down!

 
 By: sham1 : September 9th, 2019-07:55
But I hope to sell one of my watches to finance this unexpected purchase! The price of being retired!

The UJ wear true to size at 40mm

 
 By: watch-er : September 22nd, 2019-12:31
so they are big for a wrist 6.5 inches or less.

Agreed

 
 By: sham1 : September 22nd, 2019-13:07
but unfortunately in this case it was not the size that put me off when I saw the watch but the colour of the dial was personally a bit of a let down. You need to see one to understand or perhaps it is just me!

I have thoughts. [nt]

 
 By: DruidPadj : September 22nd, 2019-16:50

Good or bad thoughts?!

 
 By: sham1 : September 22nd, 2019-19:57
C'mon, I know you are not the bashful type!

Some good.

 
 By: DruidPadj : September 23rd, 2019-05:32
Some bad.

I thank you! [nt]

 
 By: DruidPadj : September 23rd, 2019-16:15

Credit where due my friend

 
 By: sham1 : September 23rd, 2019-19:21
anyway, I did not like the watch when I saw it - I am relieved!

My objections are:

 
 By: DruidPadj : September 24th, 2019-04:55
the sub-seconds dial is a bit too big-out of proportion to the dial; the case is too thick, especially when you consider that it contains a manual wound movement; and, maybe most of all, other than the design of the case and dial none of this watch is tru... 

Thanks Mike for your observations!

 
 By: sham1 : September 24th, 2019-06:49
I have a strange feeling that your list of objections might be longer for a RW Smith where the case is 13 or 13.5mm for a manual winding watch and the sub seconds dial takes no prisoners. But surely a movement made by Chronode is high praise indeed as the... 

I understand that Chronade is high quality.

 
 By: DruidPadj : September 24th, 2019-09:14
But UJS wants to act like the P4 is an in-house movement, and that's just stretching the definition. They are not alone when it comes to that. And yes, I'm not a fan of Smith's watches, though I am a fan of his talent.

Fair comment Mike!

 
 By: sham1 : September 24th, 2019-10:08
Personally, I don't give much weight these days as to who makes a movement for a brand even if it is a misrepresentation. For me, as long as it is finished well and performs reliably and accurately, I can be bought. Okay, okay, of course there are other c... 

I just want a little more honesty in advertising.

 
 By: DruidPadj : September 25th, 2019-05:49
I know I'm beating a dead horse. And I have skin in the game. I have a WG 1140; thinking I was getting a well-priced, small numbers independent with an in-house movement. Then the true story slowly starting dripping out-at least for me. I'm sure many peop... 

I always thought the term was 'sour grapes'! :-)

 
 By: sham1 : September 25th, 2019-06:19
But you are totally justified Mike to feel the way you do. Brands should just come clean with the origins of their movement like Rexhep Rexhepi who does not hide the fact that many of the parts of his movement are outsourced but he does hand finish his mo... 

Yes to LF. Same deal.

 
 By: DruidPadj : September 25th, 2019-06:50
I'm not very familiar with Rexhepi's inner workings. (I'm starting to feel like I've taken Alkiro's place here with you!)

Ah the legendary Alkiro!

 
 By: sham1 : September 25th, 2019-09:37
I wonder how my friend is. I am just glad I had the privilege to meet him in person as I am you.

:-)

 
 By: DruidPadj : September 26th, 2019-06:23
Same here!

I have to agree here

 
 By: watch-er : September 30th, 2019-15:10
From everything I read, I thought the P4 was from the ground up a designed and built UJ movement, all in-house. I too thought the dial and case were UJ. Reading all the posts here there is not much UJ but more a collaboration of others. This is all fine b... 

I think that there should be a body

 
 By: sham1 : September 30th, 2019-18:29
to ensure that watch manufacturers do not make misrepresentations and that they are penalised/fined should they mislead the public, UJs are not cheap watches and if Volkswagen can be fined for misrepresenting its fuel consumption figures, surely this is t... 

That is one of the points.

 
 By: DruidPadj : October 1st, 2019-06:02
UJS watches are quite expensive. The Ophion that Noh is writing about is quite similar in appearance and also has a Kari case (in fairness the movement is a Soprod and not finished nearly as nicely as the P4) and it costs a tenth of the 1140 WG. I'm not s... 

So I think we can safely say UJS is overpriced

 
 By: sham1 : October 1st, 2019-09:21
for what they offer but ooops, we are not supposed to be talking about price here! Ophion offers better value no doubt although it does not have the history of UJS and the movement which some may say would be worth the additional cost. I just ordered a Mi... 

👌 [nt]

 
 By: DruidPadj : October 1st, 2019-11:20

What UJS history?

 
 By: watch-er : October 1st, 2019-12:29
Isn't the present company a group of investors who have the rights to the UJ name. I do not believe there is any continuity of operations to the watch maker of the 1700s. This happens all the time in the watch industry. The rights to an old historical nam... 

I think we tend to hear only of the success stories of independents

 
 By: sham1 : October 1st, 2019-17:33
and not the failures so much and although the Smiths, Voutilainens and Journes have flourished, the majority have not. I guess one can say to succeed as an independent, one has to be the best at one's game. So many new companies take the 'safer' route by ... 

UJS have never been out of business;

 
 By: DruidPadj : October 2nd, 2019-05:59
but like Breguet have had low-production eras. The present investor group is led by a Dane. And, by the way, Kari's "style" of cases and dials, to a large extent, come from UJS and not the other way around. His having perfected it UJS now relies on him ra... 

Overpriced?!

 
 By: right_wrist : October 7th, 2019-14:20
Your argument is that because UJS use cases and dials made by Voutilainen and not "themselves" (Kari used to work for them), that they are overpriced? And yet a Voutilainen watch costs far more than a UJS. Perhaps they don't divulge such things because th... 

Thank you for your feedback

 
 By: sham1 : October 7th, 2019-19:21
I had mentioned that the UJS is possibly overpriced because very little of the watch is from UJS including the movement, arguably the costliest part of the watch. Kari's dials actually are not cheap if you look at the prices one has to pay for a Kari dial... 

I did compare the two. [nt]

 
 By: DruidPadj : October 8th, 2019-05:58