You have to go your own way...
I was once considering the Patek 5396G back when it had the sector dial. I ended up getting a different Patek Philippe timepiece instead. One that was thinner. The 5396G was too polished, had sharp edges, and was a little too thick. I like the 5205G but I find it a little weird. It's definitely cool, but the pierced lugs is a little strange at the same time. If I were considering the 5205G, I'd consider the 5235G as well.
A friend of mine got the 5396G and loved it, but was a little sad when he got a small nick on the sharp edge of the case. He eventually upgraded to a 5140J and loves the watch. He was split between the 5159G and the 5140J. Ended up with the 5140J and loves it. He loves the slimness of the timepiece. He now wants a 5140G. He acquired a 5140R with brown dial for his spouse.
I'm personally a big fan of the 5140, although I don't own one. I would definitely like to get one. This is a great watch and performs dual function as a dress watch and as a daily watch. The thinness and lack of a seconds hand gives it formality (a small seconds hand is okay, but a large sweeping seconds hand is considered too much movement for formal situations).
The friend above says the one thing he doesn't like about his 5140 is the lack of a seconds hand means he can't tell if the watch is "alive" or not. A very minor problem to him. He finds he can't travel with the watch because you can't adjust the watch without fear of ruining the synchronization of the calendar mechanism, so he finds that he travels with his 5396G.
I'd get the 5140 if I could find one. Used, they're not terrible in price. And don't limit yourself to the big famous brands like Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. True, they're the two most famous brands, but keep an eye on Lange as well. Great watches. Noticeably thicker though.