The evolution of Rolex bezel inserts tells the story of the brand's attention to detail and continuous refinement. Some of the very early inserts from the 1950s had no markers between 0-15—they just had individual marks at every 5-minute increment. We also have the famous red triangle that adorned the Rolex Big Crowns during the 1958-1959 period. Of course, there's the later military insert for the 5517 issue, which featured marks at every minute.

The focus here will be on the inserts fitted to the 5512, 5513, 1665, and 1680 models. As always with Rolex, I must preface this guide with the fact that we are discussing Rolex, and nothing is definitive. Please enjoy this review as a guide formed by experience.
First and most important is to cover the main buzzword: "Fat Font." What is it with Rolex and "fat" this and "fat" that? First the lugs, now the fat inserts. Well, when dealing with the time period from the late 1950s to early 1970s, the standard was fat font. During the vintage period in question, MK1 through MK3 inserts are all fat font, with only service replacement inserts being thin/skinny. There are degrees of "fat," which will be illustrated throughout this guide.
| Classification | Time Period | Key Characteristics | Models |
|---|---|---|---|
| MK0.5 | Late 1950s | Transitional insert, may have had red triangle | Early Big Crown models |
| MK1 | ~1958-1961 | "Kissing 40," very fat font, square "5," serifs | Early 5512, 5513 (gilt era) |
| MK2 | ~1961-1970 | Long "5," fat font without serifs, no touching numbers | 5512, 5513, 1680 "Red Sub" |
| MK3 | ~1965-1980s | Slight serifs, somewhat thinner font, square "5" | Most vintage Subs into early 1980s |
The fat font insert shown above features the early "kissing 40 font." Very rare to find, holding the position just after the early Subs with the red triangle. This model would have been present on early 1960s Submariners like the 5512 from the gilt era, and most likely the 5513 of the same period (i.e., a gilt "Swiss only" ending around 1963/64). It's not very common to find these intact on watches from this period.

The key identifier for this variant is the "long five" feature in the 50 marker. The interior of the five is elongated vertically, rather than square as in the MK1 (with the exception of the MK0.5 or MK1.5, which I'll discuss later). The fonts are without serifs and fat, but not touching in any way. There's slightly more breathing room between the fonts compared to MK1, but they're still very substantial.
This insert was probably fitted on the 5512 and 5513 models through the late 1960s to early 1970s. It was likely also the model found on the 1680 "Red Subs." It remains a highly desirable insert for all vintage Submariners.
The MK3 fat font appears to be the last of the fat fonts and exhibits some sort of serif in the font style. It appears slightly thinner than the other two variants. You can see the little tails on the "40" as well as on the "20." The number "50" is again more square but not as small as the MK1.
When compared to a thin font insert, the difference is quite evident. However, when viewed alone, it appears to have a solid bold font feel. This is the insert that graced most vintage Submariners up to the early 1980s, maybe even later, and can be considered the last variation of the fat font era.
The following images allow you to really see the differences between MK1, MK2, and MK3 as compared to the thin font service inserts:
These last two examples presented a classification challenge. As promised, here's the MK0.5—I'm not sure what else to call it. These inserts look like they would have featured a red triangle. While I had some doubts initially, they are genuine examples, and as I always say: this is Rolex.
| Feature | MK1 | MK2 | MK3 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Font Weight | Fattest | Very Fat | Fat |
| "5" Shape | Small square | Long/elongated | Medium square |
| Serifs | Yes, pronounced | No | Yes, subtle |
| "40" Touching | Yes ("kissing") | No | No |
| Spacing | Minimal | Slightly more | Moderate |
| Rarity | Very rare | Rare | Most common |
The evolution of Rolex Submariner bezel inserts from the late 1950s through the early 1980s represents a fascinating journey in design refinement. From the ultra-bold MK1 with its distinctive "kissing 40" to the more refined MK3 that served collectors well into the 1980s, each variation tells part of the Submariner's story.
While these classifications (MK1, MK2, MK3) provide a useful framework for understanding and identifying vintage inserts, it's important to remember that with Rolex, variations and transitional pieces always exist. The dates and model associations provided here are educated estimates based on experience and observation of numerous examples.
For collectors and enthusiasts, understanding these distinctions adds another layer of appreciation for these iconic timepieces. Whether you're verifying the originality of a vintage Submariner or simply appreciating the evolution of design, these "fat font" inserts remain one of the most sought-after and distinctive features of vintage Rolex dive watches.
Best regards,
Bill
One of the most significant discoveries from community feedback was the identification of a distinct insert variation known as the "Skinny 4" or "Slim 4." This insert doesn't fit neatly into the MK1-3 classification system and represents an important transitional piece in Rolex insert evolution.
The exact placement of the Skinny 4 in the chronological sequence remains debated within the collector community. The primary question is whether this insert predates or follows the MK3. Based on observed examples:
One theory suggests that some Skinny 4 examples may result from printing errors where the font positioning was too close to the outer edge of the insert. This caused the paint to be visible on the outer edges and created the distinctive appearance with numbers and markers pulled outward.
Vintage Rolex advertisements provide additional context, though their reliability for precise dating is debated. This 1967 advertisement shows insert characteristics that warrant careful examination:
Community member M. Pisani contributed detailed analysis highlighting that the "40" marker is perhaps the most telling feature across all insert variations. Examining the "40" can quickly help identify which MK version you're observing:
Based on community observations and documentation, a more comprehensive classification system has emerged for plastic Submariner inserts with crown guards:
| Version | Time Period | Key Features |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Square Font Red Triangle | End of 1959-1960 | Transitional piece with red triangle at 12 o'clock |
| 2. Super Fat Font "Kissing 40" | 1960-1962 | MK1 - Fattest fonts, numbers nearly touching |
| 3. "Skinny 4" Insert | Early 1960s (1963) | Roundish font with notably slim "4", numbers pulled outward |
| 4. "Long 5" Insert | Mid 1960s | MK2 - Elongated "5", fat font without serifs |
| 5. MK3 Insert | Late 1960s-1970s | Fonts with small serifs similar to Milsub, slightly thinner |
| 6. Fat Font No Serifs | Late 1970s-1980s | Later fat font without decorative elements |
| 7. Mid Font Service Insert | Service replacement | Transitional service replacement font |
| 8. Skinny Font Service Insert | Modern/Current | Modern thin font service replacement |
Some collectors have proposed an additional classification - the "MK3.5" - to describe inserts that exhibit medium font weight similar to the MK3 but lack the characteristic serifs. This would represent another transitional piece between the classic fat fonts and the later thinner service replacements.
This guide has benefited enormously from the vintage Rolex collecting community. Special acknowledgment to:
The study of vintage Rolex bezel inserts remains an evolving field. As more examples are documented and analyzed, our understanding of the chronology and variations continues to develop. Collectors are encouraged to:
As one community member astutely observed: "Great message...now I know why my inserts look like they were made by 20 different contractors or artists." This captures the reality of vintage Rolex insert collecting - the variations are numerous, the exceptions are common, and definitive classification remains elusive in many cases.
The MK1-3 system provides a useful framework for understanding the major insert variations, but collectors should remain aware that:
Rather than seeking absolute certainty, collectors are better served by understanding the general evolution of insert styles while appreciating the unique characteristics of each individual piece.
Updated: This addendum incorporates community feedback and discoveries made following the original publication. As always with vintage Rolex, new information continues to emerge, and classifications may be refined as our collective knowledge expands.
Best regards,
Bill
With appreciation to the vintage Rolex collecting community