Baselworld/SIHH

SJX
[Purist]
8540

• Show profile
• Show other posts

SIHH 2010: Panerai

The primary thing that struck me about this year’s Panerai collection is the seemingly liberal use of faux vintage ecru luminova – which works terrifically for the Panerai aesthetic. 2010 is a good year for Panerai, it never has bad years, and this year’s collection is led by a pair of complications that are startling.

The first is the Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Ceramica – I went “wow” when I saw this one – it’s an impressive watch. I like the look tremendously, but I can’t decide if it’s ugly or good looking because it looks exceedingly strange, especially in a Radiomir case.

Housed in a 48 mm ceramic case, it contains a skeletonised version of Panerai’s tourbillon movement; the movement is mechanically the same as the ordinary tourbillon. Particularly out of the ordinary is the movement design – the base plate is a mesh-like platform, giving the movement a military-industrial type look.

The second complication is much more complex but simpler looking. Measuring 50 mm across, the titanic Luminor 1950 Equation of Time Tourbillon is a tribute to Galileo Galilei. It displays equation of time on a linear indicator at six, sunrise and sunset at eight and four respectively, and a star chart on the rear customised for the buyer’s location. At three sits the date and month, while the tourbillon is visible from the display back.

This watch was developed with help from Richemont’s head of technical development, whose name I can’t recall. Regardless it is still an impressive watch and a good sign that Panerai is putting effort in serious watchmaking instead of sitting back and enjoying the trouble-free revenue from entry to mid range watches.

On to the simpler watches. Two special editions were unveiled, one being the Radiomir Composite. This watch is a mountain of brown tones. The case is aluminium coated with ceramic, resulting in an unusual brown shade. Though the dial is also brown, it’s a different shade, and it complements the ecru indices and hands nicely. All of that is set off by a distressed brown strap.

The movement is the hand-wound P.2002 calibre with an 8 day power reserve (like that matters to the potential customers). I never thought I’d like a watch this brown but I do like this one. 1000 of these will be made and there will probably be 3000 buyers, so purchasers, brace yourselves.

The other special edition is the Mare Nostrum chronograph. Last year saw the launch of the ridiculous 60 mm Egiziano. Panerai followed up this year with the 52 mm Mare Nostrum. Logic would dictate such watches are made for sitting in a display case, unless you’re Sylvester Stallone, but then logic isn’t present in the Panerai pear wood box.

That being said, the Mare Nostrum is a magnificent watch to behold. This watch is modelled on a deck watch prototype of the Second World War era and Panerai did a superb job in recreating the look and feel of a vintage watch, right down to the drab green strap. Not only does the dial look old, but so do the blued steel hands.

A Panerai with an unusual dial, in itself is unusual, made its debut at SIHH. The PAM359 is a 44 mm, 1950 case watch with the P.9000 entry level in-house movement. What sets it apart is the dial, which has Arabic hour indices at all 12 hours. This is apparently inspired by a vintage Panerai of some sort. A dial similar to this was used before on an automatic Luminor but here it looks too artificial vintage and I don’t like the look at all.

Several more 44 mm 1950 watches were unveiled. The PAM351 and PAM352 are the strap and bracelet versions, respectively, of the same automatic P.9000-equipped watch in a titanium case. Last year saw the launch of the first P.9000 watches which were in steel cases.

Another model is the PAM347 GMT Power Reserve in steel on a matching bracelet with the P.9002 calibre, which further expands the class of entry-level, in-house movement Panerai watches.

The next watch is a sure hit, PAM335 GMT in ceramic. Housed in the 44 mm case is a 10 day automatic with GMT and power reserve indicator. What’s unique about this is the grey tinted sapphire display back. It gives the movement a ruthenium-plated look, which is what I initially thought it was. This is a clever touch and allows the display back to blend in with the dark theme of the watch, hiding the otherwise jarring rhodium finish.

Also introduced were a few chronographs, a rattrapante (PAM362) and a flyback (PAM361). Both are housed in 44 mm, steel 1950 cases with Valjoux 7750 based calibres inside.

The next chronograph brings us to the Radiomir watches. The PAM343 is a foudroyante chronograph, officially known as the Radiomir Regatta 1/8 Second Titanio. Equipped with a Valjoux derived movement, the Regatta chronograph is made to commemorate the Classic Yachts Challenge 2010. It’s 47 mm in diameter and titanium.

Another new Radiomir is the PAM346, an 8 day watch in a 45 mm titanium case. The movement is the in-house P.2002/9. Gold hands and a titanium case, once again a winning combination, this time with the added bonus of the 8 day movement.

Last is the PAM323, a 10 Days GMT in a 47 mm, steel Radiomir case. Silver hands and a steel case make this plain in appearance but it’s not a bad looking watch. A titanium version will eventually come along anyway.

Site Info.