Montblanc unveiled a collection that was fairly balanced between high horology and mass market watches.
Starting at the top with the Villeret 1858 collection: the first is the Villeret Vintage chronograph. Fitted with a grand feu enamel dial (white for rose gold and black for white gold), this watch sports both a telemetric scale as well as a spiral tachymetric scale on the dial.
Though the case is not overly large at 43.5 mm, especially when compared to some of the giant 47 mm watches in the Villeret range, the case is bulky due to its shape; the flat sides of the case and lugs make it appear overly thick. Nonetheless this is a strong and good-looking product that incorporates many of the suggestions initially given when the Villeret range was launched, namely smaller cases and less superflous text on the dial.
Another addition to the Villeret range is the ExoTourbillon Chronographe. This is a handsome and impressive watch but the name is clumsy (anyone remember a cartoon named ExoSquad?) and the press release tagline even worse: “The Emancipation of the Tourbillon”. Since women already had their go it must now be the turn of the tourbillon. But the watch does not deserve to be ridiculed.
The reason for the name is the unique construction of the tourbillon. Because the Minerva movements use such enormous balance wheels, being pocket watch calibres, Montblanc decided to put the balance wheel above the tourbillon cage, which is consequently smaller than the balance wheel.
This allows the ExoTourbillon to consume less energy, 30% according to Montblanc, than a regular tourbillon regulator, freeing up torque for the chronograph. In addition, Montblanc says positioning the balance in this manner frees it from the inertia of the cage, further improving timekeeping. Whether all of these claims are genuinely practical is debatable but I like the concept and the interesting ideas that are percolating at Montblanc Minerva.
At first glance this is a peculiar looking watch, it does not look like a tourbillon since there is no cage apparent at first glance. Aside from its size of 47 mm, I like the look of the watch. Generally I do not like perlage as dial decoration, one reason being the association with refined watches like the brilliant Breitling for Bentley chronographs. But in this case the perlage decorating the area around the base of the tourbillon bridge gives the watch a slightly more mechanical feel which sets off the rest of the dial well.
The third addition to the Villeret collection is also the major release for the year. Known as the Metamorphosis, this is the result of the TimeWriter project at Montblanc, which was started to support independent watchmakers by developing their ideas.
Most admirable about the project is the fact that the intellectual property that results from each TimeWriter development remains with the watchmakers who created it. So the ideas behind the Metamorphosis belong to Johnny Girardin and Franck Orny who have set up Telos Watch SA to further develop their watches. I assume that revenue from the watches produced by Montblanc goes to Montblanc though.
The Metamorphosis is the first of the TimeWriter creations which will be presented biennially. Its primary concept is that of dual dials, in this case accomplished by a quartet of wing-like plates that slide in and out under the bridges of the dial, allowing the watch to display either the date or the elapsed chronograph time. Notable is the circular disc that rises up at six o’clock to function as the elapsed minute disc during the transformation. It is difficult to describe how the functions double up as both a date and chronograph without an illustration (the pictured watch was not working), but it’s sufficient to say it’s accomplished by a clever placement of hands and numbers.
What is most interesting is how this is achieved. From what was explained to me, mostly in French and a little bit of English, the mechanism is similar to that of a minute repeater. Pulling a slide on the case winds up a small spring that unwinds rapidly to power the transformation of the dial. Like a minute repeater this is paced by a centrifugal regulator. In short, this mechanism is similar to what drives a repeater, except here it powers the opening and closing of the dial plates.
Not only is this watch mechanically impressive, the dial itself is engaging due to the multiple, complex layers. The case is 47 mm and in the same shape as first seen on the Villeret tourbillon with a protrusion at six o’clock. 28 of these will be made in white gold and the price is an absolute whale (developmental costs have to be recouped after all and this is Richemont).
And truthfully, for me as well as for many others, the price would be easier to accept if the watch came from as struggling independent not backed by a large brand. That being said, Montblanc deserves high praise for both the TimeWriter project and the willingness to experiment.
Moving away from the Villeret collection and back to earth, Montblanc added another Rieussec chronograph. This is largely identical to last year’s skeleton dial version, except this year’s edition has a silicon escapement. 25 will be made.
Two black DLC coated models were added to the TimeWalker collection. The first is a chronograph while the second is a dual time zone with big date. Montblanc calls the coating Dual Carbon: the surface of the case is hardened first before the black DLC coating is applied for higher resistance to scratches.
Two models were also added to the Star 4810 range, an automatic and a chronograph. These are distinguished by their deep, star-shaped guilloche motif. Though the guilloche is almost certainly embossed instead of engine-turned, it is attractive and at this price one can’t expect more.
The final watch is the Star Magie d’Étoiles, a limited edition jewellery watch. Shown is the black mother-of-pearl version, also available is one with a white mother-of-pearl dial. The movement is quartz but this is an attractive ladies watch with interesting dial work.