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SIHH 2010: Cartier

Last year saw the first models from Cartier’s new range of high horology watches, intended to replace the Cartier Collection Privée Cartier (CPCP). Those watches demonstrated a serious and careful effort in creating a respected range of complications. More importantly they have been well received by consumers but they have also been noticed by industry, with the most frequent comments being a grudging respect for the quality of the product and the price point.

Cartier has continued its push upwards and 2010 sees a slew of new high horology models that more than double the size of the range. But before moving on to that let’s take a look at Cartier’s new case shape for 2010 – the Calibre de Cartier.

When I first saw images of the Calibre I was not impressed, it looked dull and the wide date aperture seemed like a repeat of the mistake IWC made with the ceramic Doppelchronograph. Fortunately in the metal it looks far better with a well detailed case.

Calibre de Cartier in steel  

Intended as a sporty looking, daily wear watch, the Calibre is 42 mm wide. It is a moderate size and I am sure many women will be wearing one, even though it’s designed as a men’s watch. It looks different from any existing Cartier but retains enough of classic Cartier design elements, like Roman numerals, sword hands and a crown cabouchon, that it is recognisable as a Cartier. Though the dial design leaves me lukewarm, I find there are too many elements on the dial, this watch has all the qualities necessary for it to be a commercial success. Three versions are available, steel, steel-gold and gold, with either a silver or black dial.

Steel with gold bezel  

In rose gold 

This watch is positioned as an entry- to mid-range timepiece though it has a newly developed in-house movement, the 1904 MC manufactured at Cartier’s La Chaux-de-Fonds facility. An in-house movement, even a simple one like this, at this price from Cartier is an interesting move and I expect to see it in other watches eventually.

The 1904 MC is a fairly large but slim twin barrel automatic with a 48 hour power reserve. So named because Cartier made the first Santos for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos Dumont in 1904, the 1904 MC uses a pawl winding system that is similar to that found in the IWC Pellaton and Seiko Magic Lever. This pawl winding seems to be finding favour amongst Richemont companies, Panerai is another company that uses it inside its in-house movements.

Two complicated Calibre de Cartier models were also unveiled, though these are also part of the high watchmaking collection. A central chronograph utilising the movement found in the Rotonde chronograph of 2009, as well as a flying tourbillon. Unfortunately I somehow did not get photos of these. The Calibre chronograph is especially good looking with a complication and design that suits the chunky case perfectly. Both the Calibre tourbillon and chronograph are 45 mm in diameter.

On to the high horology models, beginning with one of my favourites, the Santos Dumont Squelette in white gold. This movement was first used in the Santos 100 Skeleton, which I found disproportionately large and thick for the skeleton movement. Now the movement has found the perfect case in the form of the slim and simplified Santos Dumont.

What’s notable about this calibre is the fact that it was designed as a skeleton from the ground up, versus being a skeletonised existing movement, so the bridges and baseplate are integrated into the design of the movement as Roman numerals. All movement edges exhibit a careful bevelling, though the finish of the edges display a regularity consistent with mechanical application. That, however, is consistent with the clean aesthetic of the movement. And at this particular price point, lower than top tier high watchmakers like Lange and Patek but above mid tier firms like JLC, the level of movement finish is highly sufficient.

The second skeleton watch unveiled this year is the Rotonde de Cartier Flying Tourbillon Skeleton. This watch looks stunning and manages to look harmonious, despite the small movement floating in a large case. It is 45 mm which means it will take some ambition and much optimism for smaller wristed folk to wear. 45 mm is probably the right size for this though, as a smaller case would cut into the open space on the dial and reduce the light, delicate feel of the movement.

It uses the 9455 MC calibre manufactured in Geneva and is derived from the Roger Dubuis tourbillon calibre though it has been heavily and evidently modified. The movement has the Geneva Seal and is a marginally better finished than the Santos Dumont Skeleton. For instance the keyless works of the tourbillon have a deeper, more evident bevelling than the skeleton. However, the Roman numeral bridges exhibit a similar sharply bevelled edges as the Santos skeleton.

Another tourbillon, but one that is decidedly more interesting, also introduced was the Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon. It features an orbital tourbillon – the entire tourbillon cage makes one revolution around the periphery of the dial each minute.

Astrotourbillon with baguette diamond set bezel 

Positioned above the movement, the tourbillon makes its way across the vast empty sweep of the dial, giving the watch a significant feeling of depth and also size (the case is 47 mm wide). Though fabricated from titanium for low weight, the carriage still requires a platinum counterweight on the other side of the rotational axis which is hidden beneath the guilloche centre of the dial.

This watch was five years in the making, according to Cartier, and is entirely made at La Chaux-de-Fonds. Remember that Carole Forestier, who is head of Cartier’s technical development, was the originator of the concept for the Ulysse-Nardin Freak so this watch is right up her alley. I like the idea and execution of this watch, it is but it is very large. Cartier has also priced this fairly realistically which is further compelling evidence of the state of the market for tourbillon complications.

Though much simpler than the preceding tourbillons, my favourite Cartier watch for 2010 is the Rotonde de Cartier Heure Sautantes. This jump hour is inspired by an earlier 20^th century Cartier pocket watch. It’s dutiful to the original but reveals its modernity with the numbered minute track. At 42 mm this is a modestly sized watch and an ideal size. The movement is decorated with the interlocking “C” Cartier logo, instead of the striping found on the rest of the range, because this was originally designed for the CPCP which had the “C” logo decoration on all its movements.

Heure Sautante in white gold  

Heure Sautante in rose gold   

Another small complication shown was the Rotonde de Cartier Dürer's Folium Seconds. The seconds hand on this watch travels in a curve modelled after Dürer's Folium, a form of cycloid. Albrecht Dürer is of course best known for his woodblock prints.

The base movement for this watch is a Roger Dubuis automatic calibre; note the separate bridges for the escape, third and fourth wheel characteristic of classic Geneva style movements that RD heavily draws from. This is reminiscent of the Infinity Looping from Pierre Kunz, except this Cartier is much more elegant and subtle.

One of the strengths of the now defunct CPCP range was the large number of exotic form cases, ranging from the well known like the Tortue to the rare, for instance the Tank Obus. Cartier has revived the Tortue case shape for the first time in its new high watchmaking collection with the Tortue Perpetual Calendar. I am certain more case designs – Cartier has a hundred year’s worth of them – will be added to the high watchmaking collection.

The Tortue Perpetual Calendar is a chunky watch at 45.6 mm wide and 51 mm long, but that’s mitigated somewhat by its shape. Shapes like tortue and tonneau tend to look feminine if made small and slim, witness the Patek Gondolo ref. 5098, but Cartier managed to avoid that by giving the case the right proportions. And the open dial which exposes the levers of the perpetual calendar plate contrasts well with the sleek, curved case.

Tortue Perpetual Calendar in rose gold  

In white gold 

Lastly is the most complicated watch Cartier presented this year, the Rotonde de Cartier Grand Complication Squelette. It’s a skeletonised, monopusher chronograph with perpetual calendar and tourbillon; one of those whoppers that Renaud et Papi does so well.

This watch is not to my taste, it is too complicated looking and yet another Renaud et Papi grand complication (they are beginning to feel generic). Moreover, unlike the rest of the Cartier high watchmaking collection this watch is actually fairly expensive when compared to others in this rarefied segment.

But Cartier has unveiled a Renaud et Papi super-complication every year for some years now, and will continue to do so for the foreseeable future. Each year they manage to sell all of the watches, an accomplishment several high horology brands wished they could manage. That is the strength of Cartier.

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