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SIHH 2010: Roger Dubuis

This year marks the second collection presented by a Richemont-controlled Roger Dubuis. The aesthetics of the 2010 watches are largely the same as before, watches are planned several years in advance, but the quality control, as well as fit and finish, are markedly better than under previous management. There is also a hint of slightly more restraint in design. Roger Dubuis has an outstanding stable of in-house movements, including some notable calibres, and Richemont could potentially take it far.

  New models were presented in three cases, the Excalibur, KingSquare and Easydiver. The Excalibur is now the flagship shape for the brand, with the bulk of the new complications and movements presented in its distinctive, tripled-lug case.

  The Excalibur case is a large, distinctive design and I would like it more if it were a tad smaller; most are 45 mm. It is also entirely polished, which is a shame since the complexity of the case would allow it to display a range of finishes well.

A hint of art deco is evident in the dials. Several of them have raised numerals, but these are not applied, instead the brass blank for the dial is carefully machined away leaving the raised numerals. Greubel Forsey uses a similar technique for its dials though the base is gold.

All of the new models shown contained existing calibres, except for two which have new movements. The first is a tourbillon with an exposed micro-rotor on the dial. While this is not an ugly watch, and the mother-of-pearl inlays on the dial work well, I dislike exposed rotors on the dial.

The other new movement is a bi-retrograde date, with the date indicator running from 1-15 and then 16-31.

The rest of the calibres presented are from RD’s huge stable of movements. Topping off the range is the Excalibur minute repeater-tourbillon. It contains the RD 08 movement that features a flying tourbillon and double platinum micro-rotors. The dial is sapphire, exposing a good portion of the movement. Activation of the repeater is via the bezel, instead of a slide, hence the quaver on the bezel.

Unfortunately the prototype shown could not chime, but I do like the look of the watch. Though RD has the reputation of going over the top and far away in its designs, this one is good looking and the eccentrically positioned tourbillon gives it a slightly quirky air.

Another new complication model is the double tourbillon with retrograde minutes. Regrettably I find the double tourbillon gimmicky.

Another tourbillon, but one that’s more attractive, is the skeleton. The movement is wide open with seemingly little holding it together. It provides a good contrast with the hefty case. I examined another skeleton tourbillon from RD a few years back and this definitely has a more consistent and refined finish, in keeping with the spirit of the Geneva Seal rather than just the letter.

Next are a few chronographs. The first piece with the exposed balance is 45 mm while the rose gold chronograph is a mere 42 mm. Both contain the same base chronograph movement wound by a micro-rotor. Several versions of each are available with different dials and in various metals.

Last for the Excalibur collection is a three-piece set of platinum watches: a minute repeater-tourbillon-instantaneous perpetual calendar pictured below, as well as a minute repeater tourbillon and a double tourbillon. The latter two are identical to the model shown above except they are cased in platinum with matching silver dials like the watch below.

The minute repeater-tourbillon-instantaneous perpetual calendar is an illustrious looking watch. Although the movement is quite small and the windows are clustered in the centre, the dial design remains well proportioned and harmonious.

Several new KingSquare watches were launched as well. The KingSquare is fitted with a three-facet crystal that enhances the shape of the watch and is reminiscent of the crystal found on some vintage form watches.

The ladies’ KingSquare (QueenSquare perhaps?) was shown in several variations with satin straps.

The men’s KingSquare is now available with a tortoise shell-lacquered dial that is fine-looking. However the two black horizontal panels on the case seem out of place. Both the male and female KingSquare watches use the same RD14 automatic calibre, since the female watch is 35 mm wide which is large for a rectangular watch.

Last are a few new models from the EasyDiver collection. A couple of new chronographs and automatics were launched, including a ladies’ EasyDiver which is available in purple, amongst other fashionable colours.

Most striking was a chronograph in black and orange; the watch has orange accents all over, from bezel to pushers to back. The dial reminds me a little of the Parmigiani Pershing but with a bit more life. This is 46 mm which is large but the size suits the design.