Baselworld/SIHH

SJX
[Purist]
8540

• Show profile
• Show other posts

SIHH 2010: Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin presented a small and quietly attractive collection this year. The first of which is a pair of ultra-thin watches, the Historiques Ultra-Fine 1955 and 1968.

The 1955 is inspired by a VC from that year. At 36 mm it is faithful to watches of that period in size. It stands only 4.1 mm high, making it the thinnest mechanical wristwatch today. Because of its slimness, the 1955 has a display back fitted with a titanium ring for rigidity.

Inside beats the 1.64 mm high cal. 1003, originally developed by JLC and used by both VC and AP. VC now manufactures the movement in-house and the bridges and base plate of the cal. 1003 in the 1955 are 18k gold. The gold bridges have a rich colour but lack the sharply defined edges found on harder brass bridges.

On the other hand, the 1968 is an automatic, equipped with the 1120 automatic calibre with its distinctive round metal frame supporting the rotor. Like the 1003, the 1120 was developed by JLC, and then used by VC, AP as well as Patek Philippe. The latter two famously used the calibre in the first versions of their iconic sports watches, the Royal Oak and Nautilus respectively. This is a smallish watch at 35 mm wide and 5.5 mm high.

For the last three years VC introduced a four piece Les Masques set each year as part of its Metiers d’Art range that aims to showcase handcrafted artistry. 2010 sees the start of a new Metiers d’Art collection (they run for three years), the La Symbolique des Laques, which incorporates Japanese maki-e lacquer techniques.

Each watch in the three piece set, two in rose and one in white gold, depict traditional Japanese motifs: crane and pine tree, sparrow and bamboo, as well as nightingale and plum. All three are fitted with a skeletonised, ruthenium-plated 1003 movement, visible in the centre, with the maki-e surrounding the movement, both front and back – the sceptic might says these are glorified movement rings. The dimensions of the case are wide but slim at 40 by 7.5 mm high. 20 sets will be made.

Grade A maki-e calls for liberal use of elaborate techniques like taka maki-e which raises the motif, as well as a good amount of gold dust, egg shell and other fine materials. Good examples of Grade A maki-e technique can be found on the top end Namiki or Pilot Emperor No. 50 pens. The limitations of the size of the dial as well as the height of the case probably constrained the possibilities for the lacquer work on the watch. That being said, given the steep price point of the set – these are only sold as a set – a higher grade of maki-e decoration would have been appropriate.

But the highlight of the Patrimony line is undoubtedly the complications. Two were unveiled. One is the Patrimony Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 Collection Excellence Platine. With a name that long it has to be impressive and it is. The watch contains a new movement that features a perpetual calendar, equation of time, sunrise and sunset indicator, as well as a tourbillon.

Twin barrels give this watch a 14 day power reserve, indicated by a display on the movement. As is the case with all VC complications, the finishing on this watch is consummate; the black polished tourbillon bridge and cage are stunning.

This is also part of the Excellence Platine collection, so it has a platinum case and unusually, a platinum dial. 10 pieces will be made but the movement will surely appear in other watches.

Next is the even more complicated Traditionnelle Calibre 2755. I first encountered this minute repeater-perpetual-tourbillon two years ago when it was launched in a rose gold case. At the time I was impressed by the tourbillon, which was exceptionally loud and clear, and free of the buzzing of the regulator that usually accompanies the striking of the gongs. VC silenced the regulator by redesigning its structure so that it is silent.

This year VC presents the same 2755 movement in a platinum case, with either a silver or dark grey dial. To my surprise when I activated the repeater, the watch sounded as good as the original rose gold version, despite the dense case material. If VC continues to make repeaters of this quality, with superlative movement finish and consistently good sound, it will eventually be able to take on Patek Philippe’s still unassailable position as the maker of the consistently best striking watches.

We finish with a new Quai de l’Ile in a tantalum and palladium case, to be made in a limited edition of 100 pieces. As this watch was originally made for the Only Watch auction in 2009, a portion of each sale will go the muscular dystrophy charity that Only Watch benefits. I don’t like the case design of the Quai de l’Ile, though I do appreciate its complexity, especially in these exotic metals.