SJX
[Purist]
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SIHH 2010: De Bethune
De Bethune exhibits at the quietly palatial Four Seasons hotel during SIHH. This year David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet had only a small handful, actually only three, watches to show, but they were outstanding, as always.
The DB25 Moon Phase was launched late last year but here are some quick photos. The version shown last year was a prototype with different hands while this is an actual production piece.
Originally available with a remarkable polished or sandblasted titanium dial, the Dream Watch One now comes with a unique glossy black dial. The dial is polished steel and heat treated to achieve the colour. Consequently the dial colour is remarkably deep, unlike anything I have seen before. Black dials are rarely engaging, but when done right they are spectacular and this falls into that category.
Clients have long clamoured for a smaller De Bethune watch, previously the smallest was 44 mm. David Zanetta originally made a smaller watch as a custom order, but now the DB25 is available in a 40 mm case.
Though almost identical to the original DB25, with the movements remaining the same automatic (shown above) or hand-wound (below) calibres, the 40 mm variant is also offered with a new style of hands which are attractive in an eccentric way.
The mini DB25 is still a good size watch by most measures, yet it looks surprisingly diminutive. It lacks the punch of the 44 mm DB25. David Zanetta also thinks the DB25 works best as a 44 mm watch. Nonetheless the 40 mm will do well in allowing more to wear a De Bethune.
This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-02-12 20:11:50
SIHH 2010: by SJX - A Comprehensive Report
SIHH and Geneva 2010 By Su Jia Xian January 2010 I present my report on the watches presented at SIHH and in Geneva in January 2010. This year’s fair was excellent for two main reasons. One being the exceptional range of products and the other being the u...
SIHH 2010: A. Lange & Söhne
Lange had a superb range of products this year. In contrast to previous years where the collection was led by a highly complicated watch that was complicated for the sake of being so, the range this year is a gifted balance. Both commercial products with ...
The TurboGraph..... To die for!
Thanks for this excellent (no BS, really good) report and less than grainy photos.... nah... seriously good shots and work. The new Lange stuff doesn't excite me too much but that's just me. The Turbograph however.... oooolala! In my wildest dreams unfort...
I must confess...
although I like the Annual Calendar as a practical piece, its design reminds me of Union Glashutte from about 7 years ago (which is not a bad thing, but was a VERY different price point. -Dean
Great shots and report on the Langes!
Thank you for providing the clear shots of the Referenzuhr especially! Helps me alot! Stephen
there isn't one that i don't like.
wow. all are gorgeous but can not afford any ;0((( thanks for sharing Tony
SIHH 2010: Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet presented a good range of watches with something for everyone. What was unusual was the relatively few high complication watches. On more than one occasion AP unveiled a bewildering number of complications, but this year the quantity was m...
What AP need is a dedicated chronograph movement
to match their 'positioning' as a sports watch company. Most of their chronographs are bolt-on stop watch mechanisms on the tried and tested JLC-base. Of course, they have tourbillon chronographs but they only time 30 mins epochs......now, I ask you.....w...
I disagree, but then...
my position on this has been so often misconstrued that I have decided not to engage in any further public discussions on this. Oops...did I just contradict my decision? ;-) TM
I said 'dedicated' and not the dreaded 'integrated' word
Thomas, As an AP fan myself, with a dedicated chronograph movement in one of my AP watches, I was careful to specify 'dedicated' chronograph movement. Otherwise, it's like me (physician) saying: "Well, I started off planning to do a liver transplant but w...
As I've written in a post elsewhere...
we needn't "pretend to disingenuously effete euphemisms " - when we mean shit, we should write shit, and not sh!t. Otherwise, don't use sh!t (shit) at all. (crap? or how about just "damned lousy?" ) See? Now you've gone and done it; you got me to slip fur...
Admit it...you just love flagelllation! LOL!
I was very careful not to diss the actual movements in use. I have a number of those movements too, in my small AP collection. So, I have to praise them! As a fan, I like to see AP being able to offer a range of engines at every price point and tastes. At...
I find it extremely unfortunate...
Hi, SJX, I find it extremely unfortunate that the "standards" of the field of watch appreciation (and product positioning) have evolved to the point that 37mm case sizes are assumed to be or "look like" ladies models. This not only shows an ignorance of p...
SIHH 2010: Cartier
Last year saw the first models from Cartier’s new range of high horology watches, intended to replace the Cartier Collection Privée Cartier (CPCP). Those watches demonstrated a serious and careful effort in creating a respected range of complications. Mor...
Your report is again amazing
and I do agree with jou on the 'Jumping Hour', my favorite watch too, especially in white gold. Thanks SJX, it was worth the waiting. GEO
SIHH 2010: De Bethune
De Bethune exhibits at the quietly palatial Four Seasons hotel during SIHH. This year David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet had only a small handful, actually only three, watches to show, but they were outstanding, as always. The DB25 Moon Phase was launched...
I know aesthetics are personal
but for the DW1 (still think its an absolutely stunning piece!), which do you reckon looks better? This of the original high shine PT finish?
SIHH 2010: Franck Muller
Three years ago Franck Muller showcased a prototype of the Aeternitas Mega 4, which it says is the most complicated wristwatch ever made. That’s an overused and much debated title, but this watch is certainly a strong contender. This year, at the complex ...
Thanks a lot for the FM report.
I don't know why, it is always very rare to see reports about this brand. Thanks SJX. Fr.Xavier
Thanks for the FM report
My favorite is the metallic red Grand Prix. The Aeternitas 4 is just amazing to look it, although a highly impractical watch. Don't know why they made the master banker case so large. I thought 8880 is already too large (in fact, I thought 7880 should be ...
SIHH 2010: Girard-Perregaux
Girard-Perregaux offered a compact and straightforward collection this year; all new models were derivatives in one way or another of existing products. GP has made so many variations of the Three Gold Bridges tourbillon I’ve lost count. Yet it remains ic...
Thanks for your pics and thoughs, SJX.
My 2 GP Champions, this year, are the Vintage 66 Chrono, and the new World Time. Smart move from GP! Best, Nicolas
SIHH 2010: Greubel Forsey
Greubel Forsey presented three impressive and exotic tourbillons – though each is a variation of an existing model – at their SIHH debut (no doubt thanks to Richemont’s 20% stake in the company). When I first encountered GF when it was established some ye...
SIHH 2010: IWC
In contrast to previous years, IWC’s collection this year is tight and focused, almost entirely consisting of new Portuguese models. Another notable trend of the collection is the lean towards more classical designs, which is itself a result of the watche...
SIHH 2010: Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre presented a small collection this year, which is a surprise since they never do. To start with, two models previously found in the LMH-era JLC Master range have been revived. The Master Control chronograph has returned with an automatic m...
Brilliant compilation of pictures, SJX
I'am amazed by the quality of your pictures, knowing the light conditions at the SIHH.... The worst to take in pic is certainly the MGT Grande Complication dial...I had a big fight to take some decent pictures... Do you authroize me to use some of them to...
Thanks for the info
I've corrected the info on the black dial Duometre. As for the finishing of the GC, I do understand that is a prototype, but going by the finishing on the production versions of last year's Master Grande Tradition, I do not believe the finishing is truly ...
IMO, this latest Grande Tradition has a better finished movement
Than the 2 previous MGT, the Tourbillon QP, and the Minute Repeater. It is indeed another league, but we'll see the definitive watches, and we'll be able to objectively judge. Actually, I agree that by essence, a JLC can't be finished at the same level th...
SIHH 2010: Maximilian Büsser & Friends
Maximilian Büsser & Friends presented one new model, the Horological Machine No. 2-SV for sapphire vision. The front panel of the watch has been replaced with a clear sapphire block, exposing the workings of the double retrograde. Running along the edge i...
i m biased
the hm2 sv is prob their "coolest" watch till date...and yes...i thought the alain silberstein version WAS the "coolest"...had i known....sigh. when will be pics of the hm4 be out?
hahaha..
will send the pics and specs to the local bank manager to seek financing possibilities...
No idea of what will be the HM4...
but Max confirmed us that it would be very different from the existing HM ! Can't wait to discover it ! Fr.Xavier
from
little grapevines here and there... yes, it should be extremely extremely different. Hold on to your seat.
SIHH 2010: Montblanc
Montblanc unveiled a collection that was fairly balanced between high horology and mass market watches. Starting at the top with the Villeret 1858 collection: the first is the Villeret Vintage chronograph. Fitted with a grand feu enamel dial (white for ro...
very interesting where Montblac
was a few years ago and there it is these Days.!! from some average Watches to ultra High end.! oh ! LOVE those Minerva Movements.!! thnaks Tony
SIHH 2010: Panerai
The primary thing that struck me about this year’s Panerai collection is the seemingly liberal use of faux vintage ecru luminova – which works terrifically for the Panerai aesthetic. 2010 is a good year for Panerai, it never has bad years, and this year’s...
yes yes
PAMs have the best showing from the Richemont gp this year,,,excellent range,though all pricey end. the skeleton tourby...wht a weirdo and still a winner!! hope to see a pam tourby with a cut out dial one day. and the Composite...now that's a real looker....
Me too
so many great brands with so many amazing looking watches my favourites are Panerai Richard Mille Lange & Sohne Jaeger Lecoultre Vacheron Constantin and the Debethune in no particular order although the De bethune Pams and RMs were stunning and left me sp...
some great New Models
Panerai did it again this year.. always impressive. wow. Several New Models i'd love to have ( but my only small problem i have is not enough of this: $$$$$$ ) thanks Tony
Much appreciated these live shots!
Especially of the PAM 300 and the 339, both of which are due to land on my wrist in due time... Stephen
impressive line up...
of new models by Panerai, they have been going strong for many years now and entering a completetly new segment now with the astronomic watch. I wonder whent the first minute repeater is coming.... My favorites this year are the 335 and especially the 343...
SIHH 2010: Piaget
Being predominantly known for making ladies’ jewellery watches, Piaget is slowly but surely moving towards earning recognition for its solid range of men’s watches with respectable, in-house calibres. Last year Piaget’s flagship launch was the Polo FortyF...
I agree with the sentiments about the new Moon
face Emperador Coussin watches with cloisonné enamel dial; the hands are incongruous with the excellent enamel work. I can see the point of having slots to minimise obstruction of the dial, but the they are not the most refined :-( More importantly, ...
Hi, SJX!
I keep meaning to write you and let you know how wonderful this Piaget report is (Honestly, all your reportage for SIHH 2010 has been amazing!). The photos really do the watches justice. Piaget had a fantastic showing this year IMO. There are so many roma...
SIHH 2010: Richard Mille
Along with Greubel Forsey, Richard Mille was one of the two new exhibitors at SIHH this year. Audemars Piguet is a long time SIHH exhibitor, being there since 1999. RM is connected to AP via the latter’s minority stake in RM, as well as the fact that all ...
Great write up on the Richard Mille watches - great photos too
You said it - Richard's genius is that despite people telling him something cannot be done, he will find a way to do it. I believe the lapis version of the RM018 is something to behold... Thanks for the photos and write up. Andrew H
SIHH 2010: Roger Dubuis
This year marks the second collection presented by a Richemont-controlled Roger Dubuis. The aesthetics of the 2010 watches are largely the same as before, watches are planned several years in advance, but the quality control, as well as fit and finish, ar...
SIHH 2010: Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin presented a small and quietly attractive collection this year. The first of which is a pair of ultra-thin watches, the Historiques Ultra-Fine 1955 and 1968. The 1955 is inspired by a VC from that year. At 36 mm it is faithful to watche...
SIHH 2010: Van Cleef & Arpels
Due to a lack of time – SIHH is one long, mad rush to one appointment after another – I was unable to see Van Cleef et Arpel’s complete collection. That was disappointing because I knew it would be worth my while. Fortunately I did get to see the two most...
Facinating this lover's bridge is!
And good macros too accompanying the description! Thanks! Stephen
Amazing report!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you so very very much, outstanding and very appreciated!!!! I didn't even know there was an LE Boutique JLC Duometre. Aaaaaghhhh!!!!
Well worth the wait...
prose and pictures make this a reference report. Will be very hard to top this one. Having said that, am sure you will do so somehow. As such, look forward to your upcoming ones with much anticipation. Thanks for sharing JX!!!!
Most excellent!
SJX, thank you so much for putting it together. You did a brilliant job. Well done!
It is the quality of this report that shines out more than anything
else in electronic or printed media. Truly herculean effort SJX. Brilliant in erudite commentary, and the photos are high end publication quality. Brilliant and my congratulations on a truly comprehensive report. Many thanks for all your efforts to bring ...
Absolutely amazing SJX!
I enjoyed reading your report than the watch magazines. The exquisite photos you took make the pieces very mouth-watering. I am really tempted to say "one of each please." You should start your own publication. Best Sam
That thought did cross my mind
and maybe one day it will happen but that'll be pretty far in the future. Thanks for the kind comments. - SJX
What an excruciating
torture to see so many potential choices brought to life by SJX's excellent opinionated report.. BRAVO! and Brava, even! Great work and crafting of the report. The torture is about prioritisation.....we don't have limitless wallets! SJX: So, what would be...
WOW!!!
How many man-hours you spent creating this report? WoW!!! I ilke Van Cleef, will they look good on my wrist, providing I change the straps? Also like AP ROO chrono w/ black dial for ladies, I think it's cute. Before you say anything, let me declare: I sti...
Thanks, SJX, I've been waiting for your report!
Very nice report. I wish I could have gone and meet up with several of members. Best, Ken
Awesome report SJX
And your photos have gotten even better too! Thank you for all your efforts to put together this extensive, fun to read, and witty report for all of us to enjoy. Huge kudos to you SJX! Best, Anthony
I couldn't possibly be more grateful and happier
thank you SJX for another and I'll call it traditional (hoping for many more to come) SIHH report .... absolute treat. Thinking of all the time and effort you put in this post for us to enjoy all I can say is Chapeau Bas! Cordially Damian
Fantastic report... as always !
The 2010 report is one of your best... thanks to the brands which presented a great number of interesting novelties and thanks to you: your pics are beautiful and you managed to capture the beauty of each and every model. Congrats ! Fr.Xavier
Super!
Appreciate what a hard work you have contributed. Thank you for sharing with us.
Incredible work SJX!
Hi SJX, Incredible work! I'm amazed! Do I really need to go to SIHH next year? Thank you very much for your efforts, and for their result! Cheers Dje
The best compliments I could give will not be sufficient. A resource!
Rely on the fact that these picutres will be seen by many!
Brilliant!.......
You made those of us who were not at the show feel like we didnt miss it! Thanks. J.
SJX...you are an asset to this community :-)
It's always a pleasure to read your article and I consider myself very fortunate and honoured to know you as a personal friend. Thank you for such wonderful report I wish you a very Happy Chinese New Year. Lovesss*Clang
Thank You So Much for such a complete report ...
SJX ...Thank You So Much for such a complete report ... !! many ....... many Thanks
Awesome Post
Thank you so much for this amazing effort. I wish I was there but I don't need to be with this.