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When a dream finally comes true
It took me four years to figure out if I really wanted a Patek Philippe and, if so, which one would really suit me best.
Month after month, the more I researched and delved into the history of the brand and its many references, the more I was convinced that what seemed truly wonderful to me was a shaped case with a shaped hand-wound movement.
Which is why I was so drawn to the ref. 5100 and, in particular, the yellow gold variant (the ref. 5105, with a genuine vintage 9-90 caliber, also seems very desirable, but I haven't been able to see one yet and the price range is high).
Then, quite unexpectedly and very recently, I came to try on the Chronometro Gondolo ref. 5098R-001 and immediately realised it had everything I was looking for:
- a magnificent tonneau case,
- an insane hand-guilloché dial,
- fabulously playful and unctuous Art Nouveau painted numerals,
- delicate pear-shaped hands,
- curved cartouches bearing the brand and the iconic model names,
- a shaped hand-wound movement with a traditional design unique to this reference.
And a direct link to one of the most incredible moments in Patek Philippe's history: the partnership with Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau (below: the original example from the Patek Philippe Museum).
Yet two things prompted me to look further, even if I generally have a strong preference for colored gold (my three other watches are in rose gold):
(i) there is a platinum variant that can be had for almost the same price, and of course, a platinum Patek Philippe would make it even more extraordinary: indeed, the idea has matured over the months that considering platinum for a Patek Philippe could really make a lot of sense;
(ii) most platinum examples bear the very important and historically relevant Geneva Seal, while almost all rose gold examples bear the much less significant Patek Philippe Seal.
Below: how the Geneva Seal is presented in the watch's Instructions for use booklet:
So I flew out to see an available full-set Geneva Seal platinum example and... decided to make it mine.
Look at this insane dial:
And look at this beautiful Geneva Seal hand-wound movement with a beautiful S-shaped minute-wheel bridge, caliber 25-21 REC:
A delightful detail: while winding the watch, you can see the crown wheel, ratchet wheel and click in action (obviously, I've been cleaning the case back with my red t-shirt...).
Here’s the presentation of the movement in the user guide which specifies that it was Patek’s "first simple form movement since its famous 1930s and 1940s predecessors":
The Top Wesselton diamond between the thin welded screwed lugs at 6 o’clock, silently reminding the owner that he is wearing a platinum watch.
The case profile (the watch is only 8.9 mm thick) shows the subtle curvature of the whole case.
And even the prong buckle, inspired by its historic predecessor, is quite special (it might even be unique to this reference, but I'm not completely sure). And I have to say that having a rather small wrist, I really enjoy the 17 to 14 mm size (from lug to buckle) of the strap.
As a conclusion, here's the official press release from 2007 in which I highlighted a few passages:
Thanks for reading!
Best, Emmanuel
When a dream finally comes true
It took me four years to figure out if I really wanted a Patek Philippe and, if so, which one would really suit me best. Month after month, the more I researched and delved into the history of the brand and its many references, the more I was convinced th...
Your taste is quite exquisite Everything about
That watch is sublime It looks magnificent on your wrist and every point you make about the watch including the case dial and movement as well as its history with chronometro gondolo is just another factor in you making this momentous decision Enjoy J
Thank you so much for your very kind words, J!
They go straight to my heart. Wearing this watch filled with charm, history and craftsmanship, since yesterday is pure joy. Best, Emmanuel
Thank you so much for your kind words, Kurt!
To say that I enjoy wearing this watch is an understatement. Best, Emmanuel
Congratulations 🔥😊. Absolutely beautiful watch. Very happy for you!
My only questions are that from reading your other posts I thought you were partial to colored metal cases and thought the Patek seal was more stringent than the Geneva Seal. Doesn’t matter, I would love to have any of the examples shown and after all the...
Thank you so much for your kind words, Vetnov!
I am partial to colored gold, but in this particular case (pun intended), platinum made total sense. My preference for the Geneva Seal comes from the fact that it was created in 1886, is shared with other brands (my CdV and LUC bear it) and is awarded by ...
Thanks for the information about the Geneva Seal.
I had no idea it had been created that long ago. Makes total sense you would want that standard of excellence on your watch 😊
Yes, and a seal from 1886
makes more sense for such a vintage inspired watch than the modern PP seal from 2009. The ref. 5098P was launched in 2007 for the 80th anniversary of the last original Gondolo wristwatch sold in 1927 (and the example that served as a model is from 1925).
Congratulations!
It’s a striking beauty and well worth the plunge. I hope it brings you many years of enjoyment and happy memories. And thank you for this wonderful post. Wear it in good health.
Thank you so much for your kind words !
This watch is pure joy to wear and, hopefully, will continue to be so for a long time to come. Best, Emmanuel
Thank you so much for your kind words, Count!
This watch is pure joy to wear and stare at. Best, Emmanuel
Thank you for the wonderful sharing and congrats for acquiring this gorgeous beauty, Emmanuel.
My next action is to find an equally well preserved 5098P..... Cheers, Henry
Thank you so much for your kind words, Henry!
I hope you will find one soon and wish you the best for the search. Best, Emmanuel
That is one special PP - not often seen
my expectation would be that this reference is usually part of larger PP collections but the fact that this is the one for you shows the time you spent researching and refining your personal taste. Congratulations for walking on the less trodden path
Thank you so much for your kind words, Vinnie!
This watch is indeed not very much sought after, but it’s really made for me. I couldn’t like it more. Best, Emmanuel
Congratulations!
A wonderful dial, a sensual case and a charming package with the added benefit that most people have no clue what you may be wearing, looking forward to seeing many more photos!
Thank you so much for your kind words, Arronax!
This watch is a pure joy to wear (and isn’t very far from your beautiful Casablanca). Best, Emmanuel
Merci beaucoup, Nicolas!
Cette montre est vraiment faite pour moi. Et je suis content d’avoir franchi le pas du platine, car dans ce cas ça a vraiment du sens. Bon week-end ! Emmanuel
Congratulations on the arrival of your Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo 5098.
I know you usually prefer yellow gold to white metal but in this instance I think you made a brilliant choice, I read you were at first drawn to the ref 5105 in yellow gold but I think the one you have is infinitely nicer than it. The dial is really stunn...
Thank you so much for your kind words, Marc!
The 5100J has been an important step in the growing of my knowledge and the maturing of my choice, but this 5098P feels like it was made for me. I love every aspect of it and it is pure joy to wear. As for the 5105P, I hope I’ll be able to see one in real...
Congratulations, Emmanuel!
I also am a big fan of your watch. Enjoy it! I know you are.
Thank you very much for your kind words, Steve!
I’m definitely enjoying it! Best, Emmanuel
Huge congratulations 🎉🎊🎈
On acquiring this truly superb watch - you will probably not be surprised to hear it’s right up my alley 😊👍🏻 And the platinum makes it nicely stealthy on top - a fantastic choice overall 👏🏻🙌🏻👌🏻
Thank you so much for your kind words, Kristjan!
Indeed, I’m not surprised that it suits your taste too. Like your 1972, it’s a piece that really feels very special. It’s pure joy to wear it and I think/hope it will remain so for a very long time. Best, Emmanuel
What a pleasure it was to read about your journey, the passion and joy self evident, I am really happy for you Emmanuel 😊 Big Congrats 👍❤️
Who hasn't used an old t shirt to clean their watch? 😄 They work great! 👍
Thank you so much for your kind words, Salman!
This watch really feels like it was made for me. And I didn’t think my t-shirt would leave so many fluff 😅🌼 Best, Emmanuel
The amount of research you put into your posts in uncanny.
So it doesn’t surprise me that your dive into what watch to get for yourself led you to the deepest depths. Incredible. I’m thrilled for you with your new grail. Enjoy it in the best of health. It’s truly beautiful and clearly very special piece.
Thank you so much for your very kind words, Gary!
This watch is definitely very special: I love every aspect of it and it’s pure joy to wear. Few pieces, for me, are filled with as much charm and significance. Best, Emmanuel
Congratulations Emmanuel. I am sincerely thrilled for you on this superb acquisition.
Your excitement is palpable. Very well done. I love a platinum case so obviously I'm 100% on board with your selection, lol. Again, massive congratulations. M4
Thank you so much for your kind words and your enthusiasm, M4!
Platinum really made a lot of sense for this piece and I’m definitely glad I made this choice. Best, Emmanuel
Thank you so much for your kind words, orahu!
I’m definitely happy to have been patient and persistent: this watch really feels like it was made for me. Best, Emmanuel
This is uniquely impressive, Emmanuel 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Such a special piece. And I love how well researched your choice is. The information presented, as always, is eye opening as I didn’t realize the distinction of the Geneva seal on platinum pieces compared to gold pieces, which is very interesting. Wear it...
Thank you so much for your kind words, ArmisT!
The Geneva Seal was definitely an important point (even if not the only one of course) that led to me to choose the platinum variant. And I’m really happy to have made this choice. Best, Emmanuel
Thank you so much, Filip!
This watch feels like it was made for me and I’m looking forward to enjoying it for a long time! Best, Emmanuel
Thank you so much, Bruckner!
I’m glad you like this beauty and, yes, the buckle is the cherry on top! Best, Emmanuel
Doesn't get better than this!!
Huge congratulations Emmanuel! I've used this line before, and it applies here again - perfection is not supposed to exist, yet here we have it right in front of us. Personally, I have always loved the tonneau case. When I first started in watches in the ...
Thank you so much, mblum3!
I’m glad you like this reference as much as I do. And yes, a tonneau case has a very unique charm. Best, Emmanuel
Congratulations on a spectacular and very particular watch!
It's a watch that--foolishly--I have never paid much attention to, and you're showing exactly how fine and worthy it is. A platinum Patek with a bespoke shaped movement, gorgeous unique case, elaborate guilloche dial: what a treasure!
Thank you so much for your kind words, blau!
Getting to this little treasure was quite a journey! Best, Emmanuel
Hi Emmanuel, HUGE congratulations in getting your first Patek ! Welcome
to the Patek owners' club ! You chose a great watch as the first Patek. Love the brequet numerals and guilloche with such a vintage vibe ! Enjoy it often. What is next ?😉
Thank you so much for your warm welcome
to the Patek owner’s club, Gordon! I'm going to enjoy this one a bit before thinking about the next one! 😇🤩 Best, Emmanuel
Congratulations!
Very excited for you! Looks fantastic on your wrist. I know you’re going to love it. I need to get take some new photos of mine. I recently received a new strap that ordered through my local Patek boutique. It’s blue suede and it really looks great. Enjoy...
Thank you so much, Jason!
Your photos highlight the beauty of this watch so greatly! Thank you for them and for the awareness they have raised in me. I need to get another strap as the one I have is far too long. I’m really looking forward to seeing your new one and would gladly l...
Amazing watch, amazing photos, amazing story about your long search for THE one that you should choose…
…and finally amazing historical piece you now have on your wrist ! I am so happy for you my dear friend, you have no idea! I think I am almost as happy as if I would have been the one buying this marvel! 😉 And I am so glad that I had the privilege to know...
Thank you so much, Mike!
Your ever-kind and friendly support means a lot to me. And I'm really glad you were part of my journey toward this little grail. Thank you so much again, Emmanuel
I am so happy that you could finally make it 😉
This 5098P fits you like a glove, it is so you!
Emmanuel, a huge congratulations!!! I think you chose a watch that is perfect in every way, fits your wrist beautifully, is a watch for the ages (both modern and vintage)
and is about as pure Patek DNA as a watch can be. It stands out with its tonneau case and yet is stealthy and under the radar. That said, 5098P is definitely on my radar and maybe someday will be on my wrist. Best regards, Patekova
Thank you so much for your kind words, Patekova!
The fact that you also like this watch and find it worthy of a true Patek collection means a lot to me. Wearing this watch feels like having a glorious piece of Patek history on the wrist and yet an absolutely timeless timepiece. Best regards, Emmanuel
Thank you so much, David!
Indeed, I think this timepiece will make me happy for a very long time. Best, Emmanuel
Congratulations. The platinum version is amazing.
That dial is so wonderful you can stare at it forever. Wonderful addition and congratulations again!
Thank you so much, Sebastian!
I love every aspect of this watch and think it will make me happy for a long time. Best, Emmanuel
Huge congrats on a lovely addition!
Not the usual first Patek watch, but you're a very special and knowledgeable collector, so it makes perfect sense. We'll done! Enjoy it in the best health!
Thank you so much for your kind words, 1WatchMan!
Now, if I had to become a “1Watch(only)Man” this really might be the one I would keep! Best, Emmanuel
Wow, that's a statement!
Glad to hear that you're so happy with your new acquisition. I find that the so called "dress watches" are really super versatile, and I actually prefer to wear them in more casual attires. It means that you can use them in 90-95% of the occasions, so I'm...
Like you, I find "dress watches" super versatile.
In fact, I wear mine all the time except during summer (I alternate between my CdV, my LUC, my LF and this PP is now entering the rotation). As for the size of the caliber, here's how I feel about it: the case back is curved (as well as the front crystal)...
Thanks a lot Emmanuel for the great explanation! 🙏
Your point about the curved case and flat mouvement makes actually perfect sense to me. And since I haven't seen the watch in the flesh, I fully understand that the back looks much nicer in person.
Congratulations! Yet another fantastic write up from you.
I really love the dial of this particular reference. Wear in good health!
Thank you so much for your kind words, loujo!
Wearing this watch feels like having a glorious piece of Patek history on the wrist. Yet, something about this watch also feels timeless. Best, Emmanuel
Huge congratulations, Emmanuel!
What a beautiful watch! I remember being captivated by it back when it was released, and to this day, remains as a top one in my book! It is a pleasure to see you getting yours and starting your history with it. Huge congrats and thank you for sharing the...
Thank you so much for your kind words
and for your enthusiasm, Alex! This watch feels absolutely special and hopefully I’ll be enjoying it for a very long time. Best, Emmanuel
Huge congratulations, Emmanuel!
Such a beautiful watch. And it looks perfect on your wrist. You did your homework, so time to enjoy the fruits of your labour! I feel platinum being more understated and casual, would see more wrist time. But the rose gold one looks great to me too, even ...
Thank you so much for your kind words, Goh!
The rose gold looks great indeed, I love it. But the Geneva Seal was an important point for me (a seal dating back to 1886 really makes more sense for such a vintage inspired watch) and I thought that choosing platinum would make this watch even more spec...
I'm catching up only now, huge congratulations Emmanuel!! Very happy for you for this purchase which was made with so much reflection!! A very wise choice!
How old is the watch? I love everything: the shape of the dial, its profile curvature, the front (dial & layout) and the back (lovely movement). The guilloché dial work must be mentioned, it is stunning, I'd love to see live the machine cutting it, its mo...
Thank you so much, Etienne!
The platinum model was launched in 2007 (because the last Chronometro Gondolo was sold in 1927) and my example is from 2008. The ref. 5098 is based on a watch from 1925, so the overall design is basically one hundred years old ! Like you, I simply like ev...
Thank you! A sleeper indeed
and I can understand why it’s not to everyone’s taste. But, for me, few pieces are as beautiful and significant. Best, Emmanuel
Congratulations not only on this magnificent watch but also on your exquisite taste 👌🏼
What a wonderful and exceptional watch 🥰👍🏻 Your wristshot shows that you've done everything right. The watch suits you perfectly. I immediately started looking for offers 😂 I think it's simply fantastic!
Thank you so much for your kind words!
Because of its tonneau shape and retro style, this watch isn't to everyone's taste of course, but I personally love everything about it. I wish you the best for your personal hunt! 😇😄 Best, Emmanuel
I was so deep into reading your informative post about this reference,
as I was on the hunt for my 5098 at that time as well, that I completely forgot to congratulate you on this fantastic addition. It looks perfect on your wrist and I sincerely hope that it will bring you a lot of enjoyment in years to come, Emmanuel 🥂 Milo...
Thanks a lot, Miloš!
I love everything about this watch and hopefully I will always feel the same way about it. Best, Emmanuel
Thank you so much for your very kind words, Mr. Anaroku, they go straight to my heart!
Two things force me to expand my collection only with extreme caution. First, I like to wear my watches, and owning several inevitably reduces the wrist time I can devote to them, which saddens me. Second, as a teacher and therefore on a middle-income, I ...