Bruno.M1
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Independents ... bubbles ... and some critical thoughts
Seeing this new Ming selling for close to 60.000 euro taxes included .... Have to say I have serious reservations about the terms independent and bubble anyway.
For me this is 100% the opposite of an independent.
They are DEPENDING 100% on third party suppliers.
Imo ( but really IMO) cause most call everything independent that does not belong to LVMH, Kering, Swatch, Richemont, ...) and independent should be able to make a watch on his own without somebody delivering him ALL the necessary parts.
I coud do the same. Contact a designer, a case maker, a movement maker, dial and hands and finally look for someone who puts everything together. Maybe I would like the result but I would not have the arrogance nor the guts to call myself an independent watchmaker.
If you make your own case ( already VERY rare ) if you make your own dial, hands, crown ... If you reword a existing movement or you finish it to a superior level or you really start from scratch ( except hairspring, jewels, ... ) THAT makes you an independent
People scream all the time the Nautulis, Daytona, Royal oak and so are overhyped and we should look more at independents. I agree but only to a degree cause nowadays we're imo in an independent bubble. Or at least when we're talking about brands like ... well I don't need to name them you can easily name enough of them yourself.
Also, but that's another discussion .... The top independents are unfortunately also a way overpriced and overhyped story today. Most will agree the top 3 are Rexhep, Dufour and Smith.
Look, as much as I like these ... They are insane overhyped today.
I'm already long in this watch collecting thing and believe me, I've met all 3 of them more than once ... and more important Dufour and Smith about 20 years ago and Rexhep 12 years ago.
Back then a Dufour was about 40-50 K, Smith also around 45K. If only I had the money 
... and by the way all you needed was the money, there were NO waiting lists or you didn't have to be a wealthy watch collector with already a bag full of expensive special watches.
... and by the way all you needed was the money, there were NO waiting lists or you didn't have to be a wealthy watch collector with already a bag full of expensive special watches.When Rexhep started Akrivia I spoke him more than once during the first 2 years. Believe me these were VERY hard times for him... nobody bought them.
Yes, these 3 are also in my top 3 dream list ... But seeing Dufour and Smith selling for around 1 million ... that's just nuts
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Independents ... bubbles ... and some critical thoughts
Seeing this new Ming selling for close to 60.000 euro taxes included .... Have to say I have serious reservations about the terms independent and bubble anyway. For me this is 100% the opposite of an independent. They are DEPENDING 100% on third party sup...
The independent watch market has been my home for about 5-6 years. I have moved on last year/this year (with one exception).
I have less of a problem with the prices and more of a problem with the experiences. Buying independent watches was as much about the experience of buying „your“ watch and being in direct contact with the watchmakers as it was about the watches themselves...
I'm happy about how much easier it is to start a brand and succeed
But I like brands with a big history that I can dive into and study, and that have proven their staying power over the years. Plus I don't have the budget to buy high end independents.
Agreed the horology market has changed. It has done so in an *expected* manner and at a drastic / alarming pace.
Great profits in horological endeavors were reaped due to 'easy currency central banking schemes' to keep their system afloat in recent years. As we all know, this has greatly benefitted the luxury goods market (in general), with too much 'cheap currency'...
Wholeheartedly agree that “independents” are past the point of overhyped. All of them.
It’s been a crazy several years which of course has encouraged many new entrants (watchmakers, brand makers and CEOs) to the “my first indie watch will be $50-80k” market. But entry price points aside I don’t know if these new entrants are bad for collect...
Great post, Bruno
I, too, don’t see Ming and others similar to them as an Independent, more of a high end micro brand… which by the way there is nothing wrong with whatsoever and we as collectors are allowed to place our money however we wish. Fortunately there are still s...
Fantastic point Brandon
I can imagine some of the names on that list: Kudoke, Habring, Dornbluth & Sohn, Benzinger. But who else might you include on it?
You nailed it
I might add Sinn to that list even though I don't personally think of them as an Independent. Oil filled watches, watches with the AR-dehumidifying technology, Tegiment hardening, Captive bezels, etc. shows me they do not take making sport watches lightly...
I mostly agree with you on that 👍🏻
I do tend to focus more on real indies nowadays where watches are for the most part made by there creators and not by a designer although some are really beautiful watches tbh .
Very much agree, this has been bugging me for a while now. Ultimately I think more options are good but hype and crazy prices make it treacherous for buyers, people really need to know what they are buying for the $ and be 1000% comfortable with it.
$60k for a gold Ming? $150k for a new watch school graduates first project? $500k for assembly of the best outsourced parts money can buy? I love Ming's designs, I'm happy talented and motivated youths can make their own way without toiling in the mines o...
Good article thank you
but I think there are two different definitions of an independent watchmaker - one that does not belong to a large group which means Patek Philippe can also be classed as an independent watchmaker and one that makes his watches entirely in house which is ...
Extremely well said, especially the point on opportunity cost
Even an entry-level independent three hander - think Moser Pioneer or Ferrier Classic Origin - competes on pricing with a Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre.
Exactly!
And the Duometre is a quality product by a proven brand with a long history. It has a spectacular movement too, though a little large fand thick for some wrists.