Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712 Review

Mark in Paris shares his personal journey and comprehensive review of the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712, a watch that unexpectedly captured his admiration. This article offers a collector's perspective on the 5712, detailing its comfort, elegance, and the subtle differences that distinguish it within the Nautilus family.

Hello everyone,

As some already know, I recently purchased a 5712 Patek and I just thought about sharing this with you through this little overview.

I won't go through the Nautilus history again as there are already many datas on the subject among the forum's threads.

But just before starting the review, I would like to share with you the developement I followed and how I felt about this purchase.

To start with, and for the story, I never was a great Patek fan (except very complicated and rare timepieces). Nevertheless, I had a great admiration for their legacy and thus the history, the philosophy, the evolution of the brand through the eventful moments of history and their technical knowledge as for their crafting mastery. But yet, was missing this watch I would be ready to collect that budget for.

Of course, I did hear about the Nautilus. I saw it from far away sometimes, briefly recognized it on a stranger's wrist but never really focused on it and thought about trying it on.

I like the Royal Oak a lot, for the bracelet + case box + bezel as the beautiful sculpture it is. On several shots from the Nautilus, I saw a more sober and well-behaved competitor, maybe fade, which didn't bring any significant sensation to me.

But this was before ...

I had the chance to try the 5711 of a friend and this experience was a true revelation, the love at first sight effect. You may say that it looks like happens very often to many people, and that in many cases it doesn't last, thus leading several weeks later to grow tired of it and switch to another one. It is true ... sometimes.

Here, as this 5711 was at my size, I remember perfectly well how comfortable it was, the elegance it showed (edges are less clear-cut than a RO for example), and something I didn't know I was looking for these times anymore, the thinness. I saw many ultra-thin watches but in a more round-classic shape, and it is not what usually attracts me the most (at least as of today, excepted the 1955 VC)

But yet, this detail was the main reason why I was caught then and, finally, this criterion became mandatory for that watch. I saw the beautiful 5726 with its 12.3mm underlining its exquisite shape but I found this version less attractive in the end because of the thickness. Something was really missing. It was of course "worse" with the very nice 5980 (13.3mm) with its additional pushers and the rise in diameter (yet small: +0.5mm). Simple question of personal feeling there.

I usually like strong character watches. This is the path I followed since my 1815. But finally, I've been attracted again by what was part of my tastes some years ago. This experience finally threw light on the fact that watches are a foggy area and where "never say never" is facing its full meaning and where certainties have a tough life.

During the try, I remembered all I could read from Nautilus' fans, impressions I couldn't feel and understand at that time. It was just part of all the subjective feelings that make our community so diversified, a feeling concerning this watch I would definitively not be sharing.

After I spent hours reading reports, reviews and willing to go for a try, here is where I am now, for my immense pleasure, while I'm looking backward to all the different brands and watches I touched and explored.

The review - General

But let's come back to the watch presented today.

And a little technical reminder to start with.

It is:

- The 5712 steel Nautilus launched in 2006: 40mm (10-4 o'clock), 38mm wide bezel, 43mm overall (9-3 o'clock) and 8.5mm thickness (8.3mm for the 5711). 116 gr (much more comfortable to wear by the way than my leather-strapped Speed Mark IV which is 100 gr);

- With the 240 caliber with its micro-rotor, with a power reserve hand (45/48 hours), moonphase, date and small second hands. 21,600 alt/h frequency and Patek Philippe's seal. The watch is not equipped with a stop-second display.

As usual, the watch is presented in a beautifully crafted wooden box. Its clasp is shaped like a Patek's ardillon buckle. Furthermore, you find all kind of booklets (the moonphase settings, the 5712 manual, the retailers list, the books list and a brochure about Patek's museum). Altogether provided with the felt cover and the moonphase display setting stylus.

One of the most present feelings when looking at the watch (especially on the wrist) is the harmony between polished/brushed surfaces on the one hand, the overall mild form (case + bezel + bracelet links) and the dial color on the other hand. This set is particularly well balanced and I didn't find it as such, at this point, on any other watch I've had in my hands. There is a sort of metallic sheen in the blue/gray dial color that fits perfectly with the steel.

About this, I realized that the dial is brass or maillechort, it is pressed to give it its relief and it is then placed in successive baths in which a chemical reaction gives it its color.

(By the way, if anyone has a link to more technical information about the Nautilus, materials and manufacturing processes, I'm interested)

For comparison, the dial + case of the Lange 1815 form a sublime finish but the curves and style are quite different (and there's no one better than another, it all depends on what you are most sensitive to, with our own subjectivity). But from Lange, the style is heavily loaded emphasizing higher reliefs and more contrasted forms, more prominent ridges, a box with dimensions more assertive and more contrasting colors of materials too.

In the Nautilus that harmony is more homogeneous, less plays on juxtapositions but on smoother transitions between materials and colors.

That's definitely what I could perceive at the time, wrongly, as the blandness and lack of character photos of the Nautilus. In the flesh, it is quite different and I must say it pleases me even more.

While it may seem a bit incongruous to compare a steel Nautilus and a rose gold 1815, there are some perceptions that could be analyzed. Although this is not representative of a brand in general, I must say that these findings helped me a lot to understand what differentiates Lange's style from Patek's.

The movement - The finish

The movement used here on the 5712 is the 240 which holds its famous micro-rotor. For a 31mm diameter, it is rather flat, probably because of the choice of this micro-rotor (3.98mm with this model and its additional complications, but originally 2.5mm). From the few days I spent with her, the winding process is very effective (winding counterclockwise by a ball bearing system and 6 jewels).

Aesthetically, as for other particularly well finished watches, no picture reflects the quality of the finish as we can see with our own eyes. The style here is airy, delicate, elegant, particularly balanced in terms of colors (jewels, engravings, maillechort,brass) and discreet. In two words: relaxing and refined.

Comparing the 240 for example with the 1815's 3/4 plate, I would say it is not the same philosophy. Lange's movement size is greater in the sense that we look at it with a "zoom effect" from the 240. It is easier to see the work quality, especially the polished beveling, decorations and work on the anchor and the wheels. The bridges also seem thicker on the 1815 while those of 5712 are very slim.

Finally, the "screws" philosophy is radically different. There is what is strictly necessary on the 240, perfect finish, discretion and apparent lightness. Concerning the Lange, blued screws are involved in asserting a more assured character, more obvious (sometimes a bit too much on other movements). Moreover, these screws are also used to fix the 1815's gold chatons (decoration), which increases their number and so the visual effect (2 to 3 per gold chatons). The 1815 also has hand-engraved balance cock.

Everyone would certainly have noticed that the Nautilus' style is definitely sportier than that of 1815 (that's an understatement) and that such work on the 5712's 240 would be totally inconsistent (which is also not the style adopted by Patek anyway).

Finally, these are two very different styles and ultimately more a philosophical difference than expertise.

But to address the decoration's qualitative criterion, I would say they are almost identical (I did not use a magnifying glass and I no longer have the Lange to check). I would say maybe that Patek's bridges bevelling edges are less brilliant, less finely polished than those of 1815 (little vertical marks are slightly visible). But in the 240, the wheel axles outlets bevelling (around the jewels) is treated differently and appear brightest (smoother surfaces) than the outer bridges' edges (thus being identical to Lange). It is perhaps therefore a voluntary choice.

To make it short, it's just two quite different movements ... and one should just get both: D.

From what I understand, the moonphase disk is a sapphire plate on which was projected gold particles in a vacuum, using a mask made to the right format.

By the way, about details, I noticed that from my watch, the disk's stars are not outlined with a black paint anymore. It looks lighter to me and I appreciate it.

The MP and the date can be set by two small "invisible" pushers, located at 8 and 4 o'clock.

The clasp, engraved with Calatrava cross, locks with 2 small ceramic bearings to either side of it. The opening is quite easy and you do not shock the watch at each opening.

The crown :

The bracelet links are thinner than for the 5726 (QA) or the 5980 (chrono) and the same is true for the case. I myself have used the link in 1.5 which allowed me to adjust the strap to the perfect size.

The bracelet's inside "blasted" finish (and the case back's) is very pleasant to touch and to watch. Furthermore the links' finish and their assembly is a caress for the wrist.

The polished/brushed hinges' work (on the left and on the right with the crown) make it particularly nice to look at: neither flashy nor dull. Perfect.

A final word on this micro-rotor, decorated with cotes de Geneve, striated beveling, deeply engraved with a Calatrava cross and placed on a pearled background. Beautiful.

So, I think it's been enough talks, I hope it helped you learn more about this model and you enjoyed the pictures.

Have a good day!

Mark

Some wristshots for the end :