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Independents

I didn't know this was a problem

 

Hmm, I think it's fine to use base movements or trains/escapements etc. from existing calibers, sure. Where I get riled is when makers are purposely vague or outright untruthful about the 'in-house-ness' of their movements.

I wouldn't want to see any less progress in the creation of new calibers, certainly not. What if Vyskocil or Strehler said, 'aw, why bother? I can just slap a 7001 train in here!'? That would be a real loss. If someone wants to use base movements or parts, great, just be clear about it (most are), but it would be sad for the watchmaking world to lose potential new and beautiful calibers because the buying public is happy with a 'pretty face' and a lower price.

Not that this is too huge of a problem though... creating a caliber from scratch is daunting enough that it's not going to become widespread anytime soon if ever. And having a bit of an insider's knowledge of what goes in to making a new caliber, I don't see any reason why if executed with good sense and practice the price of a time-only manual wind watch should exceed that of say a Voutilainen Observatoire. Which calls into question the price of that watch- which is not my intention!

More concerning for me would be a small independent brand that invests lots of money in their image. Walk into the workshops of Vianney, Dufour, Strehler, Gautier and others and it's clear that no money is wasted on making potential clients feel pampered wink. Which makes them all the more genuine and appealing.

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