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Hublot Big Bang Black Magic Diamonds - An On-the-Wrist Review

Hublot Big Bang Black Magic Diamonds

An On-the-Wrist Review

By Ping Tsai

Is it true that when you are the first to do something that there’s a great likelihood that you are the best at doing it? I do believe that there is truth to this, if not before then definitely now after having spent a week and a half with what can now be considered an iconic watch – Hublot’s Big Bang. With all the different versions and special editions of Big Bangs that are available from Hublot, the most challenging part is picking one to review. There’s a spectrum of colors and variations that could satisfy anyone’s tastes.

I focused on the 41mm Hublot Big Bang Black Magic Diamonds, an automatic chronograph which has an all black case and dial with a diamond bezel and rubber strap. The watch carries the perfect blend of bold empowerment and high-tech edginess with a touch of glamour; a mechanized and ticking ‘Danica Patrick’ in the metal. Although the watch isn’t specifically a “ladies” watch, what a great watch for a woman it is. It allows us accessibility to the men’s playing field of fine watches. For all intensive purposes, it is a men’s watch and the slightly smaller case size and diamond bezel just make it more acceptable and familiar for a woman to wear.

The Big Bang Black Magic is the kind of watch that a woman chooses when she doesn’t want a traditional ladies watch but still wants to distinguish herself as a female.  Hublot’s watches aren’t exactly subtle and understated and this one is no different.  A person can’t help feeling a little larger than life when wearing it and certainly more intrigued by where it came from.

Wanting to know more about the brand and the watch’s history, I set about doing some reading and found out that it is a relatively young watch company compared to some of its Swiss competitors which have been around for centuries. Founded in 1980 by Italian watchmaker, Carlo Crocco, Hublot quickly captured the attention of European royalty with its avante garde design concepts and ability to break from traditional watch making norms. Hublot, which Crocco named after the French word for ‘porthole’, was the very first brand to introduce a rubber strap on a luxury wristwatch.    

With the ubiquitous existence of rubber straps on high-end watches these days, it’s hard to believe that it wasn’t a common occurrence before 1980.  Before then, only leather and crocodile were acceptable by true watch connoisseurs. It was even more unlikely to find a rubber strap paired with a gold case. Crocco wanted cleaner lines for his initial watch and thus at Basel in 1980, he introduced his first Hublot to the world. It featured a porthole shaped watch case in gold, minimalist black dial and the distinctive black natural rubber strap.  It wasn’t an immediate hit but caught on quickly and is now considered a trademark of the brand as well as a pioneering achievement in the history of watchmaking and watch design.

Normally, I begin my watch reviews by examining the case and the overall general feeling of wearing the watch.  However in this case, in light of the significance of the rubber strap, I will start with that.

Strap and Fit

The Big Bang Black Magic Diamonds is fitted with a structured black rubber strap and deployant buckle clasp in stainless steel black PVD.  The diamond checkered texture of the strap contributes to the masculinity of the watch and complements the sharp angular lines and edges of the case.  Despite the oversized nature of the case as a womens watch, the rubber strap made the Big Bang Black Magic extremely comfortable to have on the wrist.  If I had to choose the single best feature about the watch, it would be the distinctive rubber strap, a standout in appearance, comfort and durability.

Little has changed with the rubber strap from its original which took Crocco three years and cost over $1 million to develop.  The specially and secretly formulated rubber is resistant to cracks and stains but still retains comfort and suppleness.  It even lacks the usual rubber smell because of a strong vanilla scent that is added to the mixture. The way that the steel is chemically fused to the rubber accounts for its stability and comfort. There are small steel plates placed at the ends of the straps which are permanently welded to the rubber.  The treatment ensures a great deal of security at the points where the strap connects to the case.

I can attest to the secure fit. In my personal experience, the substantial mass of larger watch cases sometimes causes them to move around during wear instead of sitting flush on the plane of the wrist, even with a tight strap fit. With the Big Bang Black Magic, it was surprising to me that this really didn’t happen. In contrast to the previous rubber strap, this one is adjustable in length and has a folding deployant clasp, a risky mechanism for the small-wristed folk, especially on a big watch. If it isn’t placed just right, the folding metal clasp can dig into the skin causing discomfort during wear. This clasp contours my inner wrist with such a delicate line and precision that I could barely feel it was there. Folding metal against the skin with a clasp is a tricky mechanism to get right and Hublot manages to really shine in their triumph of it, not only in comfort but styling and functionality as well.

When I applied light pressure to the two lateral push buttons on each side of the clasp at the same time, it opened easily to reveal a hinged metal link in the shape of an H, for “Hublot”. The length of the strap can be readjusted simply by moving the metal prong on the buckle to a different insert hole on the strap. The stainless steel black PVD coated buckle has a beveled edge and is engraved with the company name between two polished screws. The pushers and sides of the buckle are polished as well giving it a very modern dynamic look – which is mirrored throughout the rest of the watch.

The Case

The Big Bang Black Magic features a 41mm polished and satin finished black ceramic case made up of 13 separate pieces.  The intrinsic sporty and dynamic character of the watch is derived from the layered configuration of these separate elements in varied finishes. Polished titanium screws shaped like the letter “H” on the bezel, lugs and sides of the case also contribute to the futuristic look of the watch. The presence of rubber in the case also enhances its modern sporty image. In addition to the rubber strap, it accents the crown as well as the automatic chronograph pushers. The polished stainless steel black PVD bezel is set with two rows of pave diamonds comprising 114 round diamonds that total 1.22ct.  The precious stones definitely add a bit of feminism and glamour to the watch. A double row substantiates the look without adding a great deal of cost to it.

For me, all black watches with diamonds always seemed contradictive. The design is meant to be monochromatic, uniform and perhaps stealthy. Putting white diamonds on the bezel seems to work against this.  It’s almost like giving a ninja a sequined mask. I think Hublot should have tried black diamonds instead or some other dark gemstone which would have given the watch a more unique and exclusive look while still allowing it some sparkle. 

The signature “porthole” shape of Hublot’s Big Bang watch is certainly unique, instantly recognizable from a distance. Although the Big Bang has its own distinctive shape and appearance, I couldn’t help but make comparisons to AP’s Lady Royal Oak Offshore, especially the one with a Forged Carbon case. I always had a fondness for the ROO and envy towards the men that sported them.  Even with the release of the 37mm ROO which so initially excited me, the Royal Oak still proved to be a watch that I could never wear due to the signature AP lugs. The 41mm Big Bang, whose masculine character is matched by that of AP’s ROO, has a broader range of wear, despite a larger case. I had a much easier time wearing the 41mm Big Bang compared to the ROO because of the lug and rubber strap construction.

On the ROO, the edge of the case meets up with the edge of the strap and they are connected by the two lugs. Because of the way the case and strap touch end to end in this manner, the angle of bend of the rubber strap is extremely limited.  If your wrist doesn’t come close to fitting within the preset ergonomic shape and curve, which is the case in my instance, then a close fit is difficult to achieve. This is not the case with the Big Bang Black Magic Watch. The rubber strap is tucked into the ends of the case causing a slight overlap of the case over the strap. This feature along with a thinner more flexible rubber strap allows the watch to have a closer more secure fit. From a side view of the watch, the rubber strap seems to run right through the case, an illusion created using black Kevlar inserts in the side of the case. This is a small detail that has maximum effect.  

The rich matte black dial on the Black Magic consists of silver rhodium plated hour markers and hands. One of the strengths of the face is the bright luminescence on the numbers, hands and markers. What’s interesting is that the hands on the subdials are luminescent too which isn’t as common on most chronograph watches. The red Chronograph second hand and other details add a hint of color in the sea of black. There is a date display window between 4 and 5 o’clock. The dial on the Black Magic is attractive but somewhat conventional. The real standout stars are the case construction and the rubber strap.   

Movement

Hublot created the Big Bang to join elements that would never ordinarily come together. When Jean-Claude Biver became CEO of Hublot in 2004, the goal of the company under his leadership would be to join unusual materials and styles and then extend that joining into the movement.  The Big Bang has become the signature exhibitor of this ideal. Its forward-thinking style won Hublot the Design Prize in the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix in 2005.

The Big Bang Black Magic is powered by the HUB4300 Self-winding Chronograph Movement, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. Another distinctive element about the watch is the black rotor with geometric shaped cutouts, completing the hi-tech mechanical and modern look of the watch from all angles, even from the back. 

Conclusion  

The 41mm Black Magic Big Bang certainly can add more ‘bang’ to any watch collection. Its most attractive aspect is the inner contradiction that is present. The fighting elements in contradiction can feed off of each other and create the “big bang” that Biver and Crocco sought to infuse in the watches they created. To put together sporty rubber, black technical detailing and sophisticated luxury of diamonds shows confidence and originality in watchmaking and designing. It shows thinking outside the box and a sure way to get attention and notoriety.

Watch Specifications

Below is a video of the Hublot Big Bang 41mm Black Magic on my wrist: