ChristianDK
[F.P. Journe Moderator]
15062
This is exactly right Ichairan
with a production just below 1000 per annum it is a manufacture and not possible to hand finish watches to the same degree as a Phillipe Dufour or a Rexhep Rexhepi. The comparison simply doesnt make sense. That kind of finish is for the very minor production of say 50 pc per annum.
In the interview I dont see him belittleing those who are making artisinal wathces. He merely states that too many of the young independants is doing the SAME watch. A 3 hand with nice bevels and that this doesnt move the industry forward. Much less is the comment targeted at Rexhep Rexhepi. Remember that they work together and Montres Journe have delivered parts to RR and that they are very good friends. (I think RR is going vertical as well now)..... And remenber Rexhep is doing so much more than 3 handed watches. He is in no way a guy to rest on the laurels and makes very technically ambitious watches. He is exactly a watchmaker with a vision beyond his wonderfully finished product.
From speaking with FP I understand that it was always his ambition to build a fully vertically integrated manufacture. As he explains this process started in 2005 and was very soon achieved. Why?
WHY this number? Because it opens the possibilities to make everything yourself. As he also explains it had to do with quality of components and security of delivery but also freedom to manufacture the way he wanted. (e.g CB dial) This is his vision of INDEPENDENCE as a watchmaker.
And BTW:
I learned a very valuable insight during a conversation I had with Rexhep. I was discussing the finishing of Pateks watches. He explained in detail that he felt the discussion of finish had become mislead. To him, first and foremost, "finish" is about the quality and consistency of components. He also mentioned some of the best components come out the Patek maufacture and of Montres Journe because they have invested heavily on raising the bar in this area. E.g. the polishing of cams and gears which are essential to the quality of the watch in the end. In our concersation he was complaining how especially Patek was belittled over their movement finish in the public opinion. As he said. "thats not what they are about". (beveling) but their quality is some of the best ( movement components) .
On the other hand you have "SOME" other highly regarded manufaturers whos claim to fame is in the finishing but when you study components closer, the quality is mediocre because they rely and depend on outside suppliers. The smaller quantities you buy the more limited your supply becomes. Finding good quality suppliers is not so easy as one might think. Even in Switzerland.
There is a very interesting interview with Francois-Paul at Perpetual Passion
I think this one is worth a read. Please enjoy š Link to interview: www.perpetualpassion.com ...
I was reading thinking āsounds like he has come to terms with Jaquet Drozā, not realizing another few paragraphs downs he specifically mentions them! š
He also makes a point about luxury and industry which actually has come up on this forum today and another forum a few days back. The crux of that discussion is people donāt understand what luxury actually is, how much of Swiss watchmaking is less luxury ...
I think for the big players like Rolex (with large/respectable market shares), there is also something to be said for āeconomies of scale.ā
They can make certain movements that are of high durability/quality by spending serious cash $$$ (that close to all others cannot do, cost prohibitive or otherwise) and the fact that they produce over a million watches a year and can sell those pieces, he...
Totally! I respect rolex more now than ever. Sometimes I toy with the idea of what it would look like to sell everything and create an all rolex collection
I do think his idea of luxury though is pretty narrow and his lack of appreciation for simplicity and finishing puts him at the other end of the spectrum from dufour or smith. While I agree finishing isn't watchmaking and I can see his point as an invento...
This is a great postā¦
You have drilled down to what is the very soul of aspirational creativity or the nexus of art and craft. There must be purpose but itās the artful expression of purpose that inhabits that mercurial union. When endeavoring to improve on such a universal ag...
Thats not what he said Fastwong
He respects those two you mentioned. The point he makes is that most in the new generation of independents are following that same recipe without contributing with anything other than nice craft. And he is dead right. Itās uninspired and at brink of being...
He does say he sees no added value in simple well finished watches. My point is that his dismissal of value there I think narrows his concept of luxury, of "the best".
Is the GF Handmade 1 uninspired because it delivers nothing but hand craft? The RR CC is one of the most extravagantly craft simple 3 handers made today, certainly RR must see value in it? I'm not saying craft is everything, just that it's something, and ...
Fastwong: No - he doesnāt say that and again youāre so obviously twisting the meaning
His exact words are : ā What leaves me perplexed in the new generations is that almost all of them focus on creating three-hand watches, with or without tourbillons, finished with impeccable polishes, but then? What is the added value? It is a technical l...
My thoughts exactly; the way someone āfinishesā a watch can be luxury itself
There can be art type luxury (finishing) and complication type luxury (multiple complications), then having both art and complication luxury in one watch should make that watch way more appealing. Some simply made drawings (art) can garner high valuations...
š
Rolex is totally unique form the rest of the big manufacturers in the industry. The absolute benchmark for quality. I believe F.P. Sees it that way as well and I suspect that is a big reason why he privately is a Rolex collector among the different catego...
Love this quote
"What leaves me perplexed in the new generations is that almost all of them focus on creating three-hand watches, with or without tourbillons, finished with impeccable polishes, but then? What is the added value? It is a technical level of three out of te...
This deserve a dedicated discussion
I think that this is the latest years' trend, great finishing and nothing more. The only watchmaker who's done something really be is Stephen McDonnell with his perpetual and "chrono", while Zenith and Frederique Constant have introduced oscillators.
Yes, itās gotten tiresome an uninspired but has been hyped beyond belief
Itās why we have people counting inward angles and oohing over wide beveling. It EASY to see and appreciate. But it is merely craft and a default way to establish your self as an independent to make some dollars. I do think though, that when you look at s...
Technical or artisanal or both
First thing up front, I'm the biggest fan of Francois-Paul. I admire his philosophy on watches and I have dined with him (sometimes with Masa) in a group setting a handful of times over the past few years. I own his watches which I have posted a few times...
This is exactly right Ichairan
with a production just below 1000 per annum it is a manufacture and not possible to hand finish watches to the same degree as a Phillipe Dufour or a Rexhep Rexhepi. The comparison simply doesnt make sense. That kind of finish is for the very minor product...
This is an amazing interview.
Freedom of thought and expression coupled with discipline and pursuit of perfection arenāt always present in the same person. Yet FPJ achieves this in his own way. His style is unique and special. Different yet familiar. Pure genius. I love his watches (a...
A real pleasure, Gary.
Itās not often that I see interviews with him any more but he always makes thoughtful and sometimes provocative comments. I also learned something from it.
Great interview
The brand identity being embedded in product the way he described is the same thing I like tn rant about when we acquire a consumer brand. Heās 100% correctly that people should be able to tell itās yours without a logo.
