skyeriding
901
Thank you very much MTF for the detailed response
First I must say, I find the calibre naming convention for Chopard a little confusing!
I'm more familiar with the older Cal e.g. the 1.96 and the 3.96...
Regarding the swanneck regulator, I feel its more of an added "artistic", nice-to-have thing that adds some visual interest to the balance cock - portrays that sense of precision (despite, likely being impractical today).
The main reason I bring this post up is because of some previous posts I've seen that details different levels of finish on the different variants of the same calibre:
So for instance, in the movement photos of the new LUC XP 2017 in steel, it appears to have the satin/brushed finished of the oscillating plate next to the winding stem instead of the black-polished version of the higher-end 1.96. Besides the tangible differences (uses a tungsten rotor, does not have the swan-neck regulator, and the unseen dial-side finishes), it still seems that these new models still follow the trend of having varying levels of finish across the product range - notably on the anglage which still appears to be a machined, 45 degree bevel and unpolished - unlike the higher end variant. Can you confirm this?
Note that this is by no means an attempt at belittling the brand, but I'm just curious to know/reconfirm the differences between the lineup for educational purposes. Most of these little details afterall - are fairly subtle, and only movement enthusiasts would be very very particular about such nuances.
Personally, after seeing the level of finish attained in the 1.96 calibre, Chopard has ranked around the top in terms of movement decoration for a large production brand:
(Images from ninanet.net)
Regards,
skyeriding
Baselworld 2017: Chopard L.U.C XP
Less is More. L.U.C XP One watch from Chopard may have escaped notice at Baselworld 2017 because (ironically) it is the simplest L.U.C model in the Collection. The new L.U.C XP model is just on the right side of cool and casual elegance with its 40mm dia...
I'll keep an eye out for that one...
A very haute couture piece of haute horlogerie. I'll definitely be keeping en eye out for it the next time I'm at a Chopard boutique! Movement is well finished? It doesn't have the Geneva Seal nor the Fleurier seal, but looks reasonably well finished in t...
Reasons for lack of C.O.S.C. or QF or Geneva Seal
This L.U.C XP cannot be chronometer certified nor QF tested because it has no seconds hand; that being a vital requirement of those tests. Geneva Seal is not available because the watch is entirely manufactured in Fleurier, which is outside the Canton of ...
Got it!
Right, no seconds hand! Ahh, this one is not made in Geneva but made in the Fleurier factory we visited together several years ago. Got it! Thanks MTF!
I think it appeals to both beginners (like me) and experienced gentlemen (like you). :-)
Manual wind movement is preferable, but that micro rotor is such a little beauty! 38-39mm will be nice, but since this watch does not appear to be a pure dressy piece, 40mm will also do, especially with Chopard's great design of case shape and lugs.
The biggest appeal is the smallness of the retail price
As this watch has to appeal to younger or trendier gentlemen, costs have been kept down by the use of steel or tungsten instead of gold and "half" the alligator leather than standard L.U.C straps The L.U.C quality is still there and the fashion-conscious ...
I would take issue with this!
The biggest appeal - to me at least - is the simplicity on offer here. Steel. Nice brushed and polished case. Two hands only. Blued. No darned date window. No extraneous dial text. No lume. Lovely movement architecture (finishing quality TBC of course). G...
Really like this one
Sometimes simple is boring but little pops make it clean yet fresh. I think this fits that bill. Very nice.
Bonus feature: No need for obsessive compulsive geekiness
As there is no seconds hand, there is no need to be obsessive about setting the "precise" seconds Just chill out and enjoy the watch looks and style. Regards, MTF
I just got a warning from Mr Blomman not to post prices!?
What is our rule, Dr Foo? I'm really confused. Rgds Raymond
We do not discuss street prices
We do not discuss street prices. Posts that 'focus' on best price comparisons across dealers, countries, 2nd hand and discount palaces are discouraged. At special occasions like SIHH and Baselworld, official Manufacturer Recommended Selling Price can be q...
It is not a problem to post a brand's MSRP of a watch.
Sometimes, the numbers vary in different regions of the world, but you will not be in trouble to state the retail price of a watch. What we fully like to avoid are any conversations regarding "discounts", "street price", etc.
That's what I did but appreciate both for the explanation...
I will just use PM instead to the member who is asking. Rgds Raymond
Thanks Raymond. You have done absolutely nothing wrong.
It is very kind of you to check, you can always post MSRP if asked or have the info to offer. On the AP forum, if this ever comes up, I only ask that the information be completely accurate, and it usually is.
This is very interesting to me
Thanks, MTF. Very interesting that there has been zero coverage of this very attractive watch till now. As far as I know, it didn't show up on Chopard's own coverage of BaselWorld, nor is it on their website. --- An aside: I have a theory that the marketi...
Ah I see...
The price at approx 8000chf/usd has been posted, thanks MTF - that is competitive indeed and makes the watch yet more interesting as something one could spirit onto one's wrist without attracting the ire of one's better half...
Timing of report is just me
E, I was swamped and delayed posting until now. Nothing to do with Chopard PR machine. Chopard had full disclosure at Baselworld 2017 and I could take photographs and stroke the cashmere strap But you may be right about some brands holding back and stagge...
Thanks MTF
And fair enough! I am quite surprised in that case that none of the blogs has featured this watch, since I think it's quite a doozy. More fool they... I was actually hoping Chopard would introduce something along these lines (I couldn't have anticipated t...
I see this works well in Southern California and the silver tones matches BMW cars....
It also complements any L.U.C 1937 timepieces.... MTF
Please MTF, ask Chopard if they could ship me a watch for long-term "editorial review"
as you are already known to be extremely knowledgeable of and favorable towards the brand, perhaps they would like to help provoke a more objective / detached report from a Purist moderator known for writing long-winded, 6-part series ... but not known fo...
I really really like the simplicity and elegance of this watch.
It most definitely could fit into any category. Dress it up or down, experienced or novice, this watch is for everyone. I especially love the blued hands. Thank you for the write up and for bringing it to my attention as it flew under the radar.
Blue is the new Black
Although everyone at Baselworld was going crazy with trendy blue dials, this L.U.C XP only has a blue fabric on leather strap. This means that when blue is out of favour, the watch has longevity in neutral silver tones and the strap can be changed. Regard...
Very nice. For men with taste. The dial, case and movement, all is good in this watch.
Thanks for pointing out the key points of this watch. Even the strap is well chosen for this steel version. I can only say I like it a lot! Chic, but with a touch of coolness which makes superb cocktail. Best, Nicolas
Open Secret: L.U.C XP Blue Cashmere also appeals to Ladies with Taste
Everything you expressed also appeals to ladies. Nowadays, when the girls wear Bell & Ross or IWC Divers or Mille Miglia GT XL (as the current Mrs MTF), this 40 x 7 mm timepiece is also sexy. She already has experience of Chopard watches of her own and no...
Really looking forward to seeing this one in the Boutique!
Definitely find it very appealing. It may be less formal than the regular XP but still decently usable in various contexts. And no date
I did not like them at first
When the dauphine fusee hands were first introduced in the 2nd series of L.U.C Collection, I did not like change for the sake of change. The dauphine hands worked fine, I thought. It was explained that the dauphine fusee hands allowed better legibility of...
Love the simplicity of that watch
very very well executed, everything in the right place and a very nice movement too. Okay, I would change the strap but that is easy. How would you call those hands? They look like artillery or cannons. CC
Specific for L.U.C, the hands are derived fron the original shapes
Dauphine hands had 'rocket fins' added and now are 'dauphine fusee' hands. They are double bevelled at the flat segment to tip for reflection of available light and legibility. The hand is difficult to make and copy / fake, being round profile at the pivo...
Another good looking LUC...
I particularly like the blue cashmere strap which makes it look fashionably, I imagine this watch can pair with when wearing jeans during weekend. Stefan
That's what I was thinking and my jeans are ready
Just a small change of watch needed... MTF Blue jeans at the ready... ...
I have lots of respect for Chopard,
Especially their basic three-handers which has outstanding finish in their category. However, my personal quibble is with the "varying" levels of quality for essentially the same movement throughout the same product lineup. I.e. if I were to get a Chopard...
The only difference cannot be seen...
The new Calibre L.U.C 96.53-L is finished similarly to most of the "96" family on the back except for the tungsten rotor. The main difference in finishing is an area not seen by any owner or observer, on the front of the movement that is covered by the di...
Now THIS is worth knowing more about
MTF, all, First of all, how refreshing for a manufacture to be forthcoming and honest about the levels of finishing in the different variants of their movements! Bravo. I have no issue with a clean and simple finish on the dial side. What would be most us...
As far as I know, the quality of finishing is the same across the L.U.C '96' family
There are differences in actual components e.g. Swan-Neck regulator at the top end (formerly known as L.U.C 1.96). It is pretty obvious by cost, which models had different materials for the rotor: 1.96 and 3.96 had solid 950 Pt or 750 Au. 4.96 had Gold-ca...
Thank you very much MTF for the detailed response
First I must say, I find the calibre naming convention for Chopard a little confusing! I'm more familiar with the older Cal e.g. the 1.96 and the 3.96... Regarding the swanneck regulator, I feel its more of an added "artistic", nice-to-have thing that add...
Precisely...
Thanks, Skyeriding, for this comprehensive explanation of what was going through my mind too! I also remember another recent steel XPS introduction - was it last year's? - that had a different level of finish, particularly in terms of anglage and polishin...
Chopard Manufacture 20th Anniversary L.U.C 1860 XPS presented in 2016
Chopard Manufacture movements: L.U.C 96.01-L for the 250-piece rose gold version L.U.C 96.03-L for the unlimited steel version L.U.C 1860 XPS steel L.U.C 96.03-L movement ...
nice!
I think that appeals both to younger/new collectors, and seasoned alike. A lot to like in that one! A superb effort to put a twist to an already great design
Wow wow wow !
i have not visited PuristSPro for awhile due to travels and work and now I see this Luc ! really want to check out in the metal soon Cheers Robin
That means you are amongst the trendy young gentlemen
You have proven the hypothesis that this new L.U.C XP Cashmere Blue is for trendy young gentlemen but you are experienced too..... MTF
Ahhh... you young whippersnappers...
I never thought I would say that when I first stumbled on ThePuristS 16 years ago. Time had stood still 'in my mind'. But now, I am 16 years older so most people here are younger You see...in my heart, even though I like this new trendy watch strap and ra...