Baselworld 2017: Chopard L.U.C XP
Less is More.
L.U.C XP ref.168592-3001
One watch from Chopard may have escaped notice at Baselworld 2017 because (ironically) it is the simplest L.U.C model in the Collection.
The new L.U.C XP model is just on the right side of cool and casual elegance with its 40mm diameter steel case, a silver-toned vertical satin-brushed Dacron-finish dial with large blued numerals and a blue cashmere strap.
L.U.C XP ref.168592-3001
L.U.C XP case
L.U.C XP ref.168592-3001
A cool new timepiece needs a new engine and so they created the ultra-thin self-winding Calibre 96.53-L.
The new movement has a tungsten micro-rotor to generate power and dual-barrel Twin® technology to store it.
Modern, reliable, precision timekeeping entirely developed and produced in the Chopard Manufacture workshops in Fleurier, this cool bit of kit is an affordable entry into haute horlogerie for the young gentleman.
L.U.C XP ref.168592-3001
L.U.C XP ref.168592-3001
L.U.C XP design
Getting away from the traditional House of Leather or Country Club style usually associated with the highest echelon of horology, this pure and contemporary ultra-thin timepiece from Chopard displays a stylish vibe and sartorial awareness like a breath of fresh air.
I can see the influence of Chopard Porto Cervo in the way it plays with codes and styles of casual beach life.
Chopard Porto Cervo, Sardinia
The dial shimmers with finely vertical satin-brushed silver-tones and the slender applied hour-markers seem to "pop" out.
The polished curves of the broad blued numerals are swept over by blue dauphine fusée hands.
L.U.C XP numerals
How can so little do so much to the visual field?
The contrarian blue cashmere woven strap lined with brown alligator leather is a first for the L.U.C collection. The strap feels just like any L.U.C strap on-the-wrist because of the alligator leather lining but the cashmere outer feels soft and luxurious to the touch.
For the more conservative men or on formal occasions, the L.U.C XP may also be paired with a blue alligator leather strap.
The really cool guys would probably just stick with the cashmere strap.
New L.U.C 96.53-L movement
The L.U.C XP watches contain a new L.U.C 96.53-L movement with double stacked mainspring barrels (patented Twin® technology) guaranteeing a 58-hour power reserve.
As there is not much space in an ultra-thin 7.20 mm case, the self-winding movement uses an ingenious micro-rotor that hides within the movement. The rotor is made of dense tungsten for efficient winding.
Despite the extra flat case, you can admire your new movement through the exhibition case back.
Dress Down or Up
CONCLUSIONS
The L.U.C XP is suited to all occasions and can be either an entry into Haute Horlogerie...
OR
...a spare accessory for experienced collectors to complement any masculine wardrobe.
Technical details
L.U.C XP ref.168592-3001
Case:
Stainless steel
Total diameter 40.00 mm
Thickness 7.20 mm
Water resistance 30 metres
Stainless steel crown with L.U.C logo 5.00 mm
Vertical satin-brushed flanks and space between lugs, polished bezel and case-back
Glareproofed sapphire crystal
Exhibition case-back
L.U.C 96.53-L movement
Movement:
Self-winding movement L.U.C 96.53-L
Number of components: 172
Total diameter: 27.4 mm
Thickness: 3.30 mm
Number of jewels: 27
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve 58 hours
Two barrels – Twin® technology
Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif
Black engravings
L.U.C XP compared with L.U.C XPS
Dial and hands:
Silver-toned dial with vertical satin-brushed vertical finish
Applied blued numerals
Applied blued Dauphine-type hour-markers
Blued Dauphine fusée-type hours and minutes hands
Functions and displays:
Central display of the hours and minutes
Strap and buckle:
Blue cashmere strap with hand-sewn brown alligator leather lining OR blue alligator leather strap with hand-sewn brown alligator leather lining
Stainless steel pin buckle
Ref. 168592-3001 – in stainless steel
What do you think?
For beginners or experienced gentlemen? 
Regards,
MTF
I'll keep an eye out for that one...
Movement is well finished? It doesn't have the Geneva Seal nor the Fleurier seal, but looks reasonably well finished in the photos. Main thing I care about is perfectly polished anglage (you hear that Jaeger-LeCoultre).
Reasons for lack of C.O.S.C. or QF or Geneva Seal
This L.U.C XP cannot be chronometer certified nor QF tested because it has no seconds hand; that being a vital requirement of those tests.
Geneva Seal is not available because the watch is entirely manufactured in Fleurier, which is outside the Canton of Geneva, that being a requirement for certification.
Regards,
MTF
Got it!
Ahh, this one is not made in Geneva but made in the Fleurier factory we visited together several years ago. Got it!
Thanks MTF!
I think it appeals to both beginners (like me) and experienced gentlemen (like you). :-)
The biggest appeal is the smallness of the retail price
As this watch has to appeal to younger or trendier gentlemen, costs have been kept down by the use of steel or tungsten instead of gold and "half" the alligator leather than standard L.U.C straps
The L.U.C quality is still there and the fashion-conscious vibe is a free bonus.
Regards,
MTF
I would take issue with this!
Steel. Nice brushed and polished case.
Two hands only. Blued.
No darned date window.
No extraneous dial text.
No lume.
Lovely movement architecture (finishing quality TBC of course).
General aspect which is casually elegant, just like me (ha!).
The price is a bonus of course! But the appeal is in the product itself.
Thanks to Chopard and I am looking forward to seeing this in the metal.
Give it a 100m WR and a rubber strap option and it would be a compelling competitor to a number of other watches out there.
Best
E.
Really like this one
Bonus feature: No need for obsessive compulsive geekiness
As there is no seconds hand, there is no need to be obsessive about setting the "precise" seconds 
Just chill out and enjoy the watch looks and style.
Regards,
MTF
Some small details that make this one interesting ... especially the blued hands / indices and the micro-rotor
I just got a warning from Mr Blomman not to post prices!?
I'm really confused.
Rgds
Raymond
We do not discuss street prices
Posts that 'focus' on best price comparisons across dealers, countries, 2nd hand and discount palaces are discouraged.
At special occasions like SIHH and Baselworld, official Manufacturer Recommended Selling Price can be quoted, if avaliable and local country taxes notwithstanding.
Finally, as each brand forum is a micro-community with "local community spirit", each moderator upholds local practices in addition to general rules. Some brands have overheated focus on prices in either new or vintage segments and are more vigilant e.g. Patek Philippe, Rolex, Panerai, Girard-Perregaux etc...
Regards
MTF
It is not a problem to post a brand's MSRP of a watch.
What we fully like to avoid are any conversations regarding "discounts", "street price", etc.
That's what I did but appreciate both for the explanation...
Rgds
Raymond
Thanks Raymond. You have done absolutely nothing wrong.
This is very interesting to me
Very interesting that there has been zero coverage of this very attractive watch till now. As far as I know, it didn't show up on Chopard's own coverage of BaselWorld, nor is it on their website.
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An aside:
I have a theory that the marketing departments of the brands are worried about getting lost in the morass of hype and press releases during the two big fairs, so they are staggering their releases - as VC has done with the two-tone and 37mm-no-diamonds versions of the Overseas (and with the blue QdI), which were actually introduced earlier but received scant coverage until suddenly, boom, my guess is an embargo expired some time later. It's a practice which I understand but the more I see of this kind of thing, and the more flowery prose I read on supposedly-independent blogs that has been lifted wholesale from PR handouts, the more cynical I become.
For example: Is a micro-rotor "ingenious" to the PuristSPro audience? Chopard has been doing it since the 1.96 twenty years ago, the movement here is a variant of the same, and it's not as if we've never seen a Patek 240, Piaget 12P etc.
---
Back to the matter at hand:
That said, this is a handsome item. 40mm - I'd rather 38 or 39 but will have to see how it wears on the wrist, and how the lugs angle down - the XP line tends to fit quite nicely after all, much better than the sportier LUC watches with their flatter lugs which seem to be made for....manlier men than I (oh, Time Traveller One, how saddened I was when I tried you on!). And I do like the casually-elegant style. Cool strap, nice blued numerals and hands, interesting mix of brushed and polished finishes on the case, nice movement architecture.
As mentioned by another poster it will be interesting to see how nicely the movement is finished.
How about an easily-interchangeable dark blue rubber strap for this one?
When will they arrive in shops and what is the "affordable entry into haute horlogerie for the young gentleman" price point? I'm not very young and whether I'm a gentleman is doubtful, but I will have to take a look!
Best
E.
Ah I see...
Timing of report is just me
E,
I was swamped and delayed posting until now. Nothing to do with Chopard PR machine.
Chopard had full disclosure at Baselworld 2017 and I could take photographs and stroke the cashmere strap
But you may be right about some brands holding back and staggering their embargo dates.
Some do it to not get lost in the PR noise and others hold back until they actually have watches for sale.
Yet others, hold back because their launches are linked to specific events e.g. we've sneak peeked at the Mille Miglia 2017 Race Edition but have to wait for the '“la corsa più bella del mondo” this month, to reveal.
Christine and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele Porsche 550 Spyder
As the L.U.C XP Cashmere is not a limited edition, there is no need to have a speedy publicity campaign. With the big watches attracting most attention, I guess the little XP was forgotten a bit...until now on PuristSPro!
Regards,
MTF
Thanks MTF
I am quite surprised in that case that none of the blogs has featured this watch, since I think it's quite a doozy. More fool they...
I was actually hoping Chopard would introduce something along these lines (I couldn't have anticipated the details, but was thinking steel, simple and a bit casual) and was a bit disappointed at the time. Now I'm a happy camper.
Really looking forward to finding one in the metal...
Best
E.
I see this works well in Southern California and the silver tones matches BMW cars....
Please MTF, ask Chopard if they could ship me a watch for long-term "editorial review"
I really really like the simplicity and elegance of this watch.
Thank you for the write up and for bringing it to my attention as it flew under the radar.