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*** SIHH 2012: Panerai ***

Panerai had a significant number of new Radiomir watches this year. Several of the novelties use the large, manual wind P.3000 movement launched last year.

Starting with the Radiomir California 3 Days PAM424. This has a 47 mm case and the P.3000. Unfortunately the dial has both a date at three and a logo at six, which are at odds with the vintage look. This is a rare aesthetic misstep for Panerai.

With the same case and movement sans date is the Radiomir SLC PAM425. This has the oddball bar and dot dial, inspired by a prototype from the 1930s, as well as the mini-submarine logo at six (the prototype pictured is lacks this). I never warmed up to the bar and dot dial.

Next is a pair of special editions of 500 pieces each, which also have 47 mm case and P.3000. The first is one of my favourites from the line-up, the Radiomir California 3 Days PAM448. This is what Panerai does best, careful remakes of vintage watches.

The other is the Radiomir SLC PAM449. The bar and dot dial is not my cup of tea but the overall look of this one is actually quite appealing.

Also a special edition, but of only 100 pieces each, is the Radiomir 1940 in steel and red gold (which uses the reddish 5N rose gold alloy). The first 50 of each will be paired and sold as a set.

This pair is modelled on Radiomir watches made in the 1940s with integrated lugs, rather than the wire lugs that characterise the Radiomir. These are 47 mm with domed Plexiglas crystals, for an appropriately vintage look.

The movements used for both versions is a Minerva supplied pocket watch calibre that is 16 ¾ ’’’ wide. Notably the movement decoration is better than the average Panerai, though not quite as good as the average Villeret 1858.

The last new Radiomir is the Radiomir GMT 8 Days Oro Rosso, in the same 5N red gold alloy as the Radiomir 1940. A dark brown dial matches the case colour well but this is certainly one of the least military styled Panerai watches.

This is 45 mm with the P.2002 movement. But unlike previous versions of the P.2002, the calibre here has open worked bridges and barrel, exposing the gear train and mainspring. The result is an attractive movement that reminds me of the bridge for the Lange Zeitwerk constant force mechanism.

Then on to the Luminor line, which sees three new ceramic models joining the range. One is the Tuttonero, which is entirely in black ceramic, case and bracelet. To match the case and bracelet the movement has a black coating.

While the ceramic bracelet has a good tactile feel, the overall look is unappealing. There is just an overwhelming quantity of black ceramic.

Similar to the Tuttonero is the Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic. This is on a strap instead of bracelet, and the P.9001 movement is behind grey tinted sapphire, rather than black coated.

The third ceramic model is the Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT. This has a 48 mm ceramic case with the P.2005 tourbillon calibre featuring blackened bridges.

Panerai’s tourbillon is unusual for the axis of the tourbillon cage is perpendicular to the axis of the balance wheel, making it quite visually compelling.

One notable detail is the tourbillon indicator on the seconds subdial with a series of dots that turns at twice the speed of the seconds hand.

And the final two models are in the 47 mm case first seen on the PAM372 of last year. The first, the PAM422, has the addition of a seconds hand and power reserve on the back. This watch hews to the classic Panerai formula and looks good.

The other is the PAM423, which puts the power reserve indicator on the dial instead. That doesn’t work so well for the modern looking power reserve looks out of place on the vintage-ish dial.

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