Baselworld/SIHH

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*** SIHH 2012: Montblanc ***

Montblanc is a latecomer to high-end watchmaking but it has been making good progress with the Collection Villeret 1858 and the more affordable Rieussec and TimeWalker lines.

Three new models joined the Villeret collection, the first being the Villeret Tachydate. This is the first Villeret watch with a date, and it has a tachymetric scale on the dial, hence the name.

The date sits in a subdial at six o’clock. Though not unattractive, the design is a bit curious, the chronograph subdials are small and emphasis is on the larger date subdial.

Unsurprisingly the movement is entirely traditional and beautifully decorated.

This is a limited edition of 52 pieces each in rose gold and white gold. The dial is lacquered gold for the rose gold version and silvered for the white gold.

Next is the Régulateur Nautique Timepiece Set. This is a set comprising a wristwatch and a standing clock intended for mounting on a boat, nay, a yacht.

The watch is a regulateur with monopusher chronograph, dual time zone and power reserve. This watch was unveiled a few SIHH fairs ago, but in this iteration it has a semi-open dial showing the elegant mechanics of the power reserve. Notice the blued steel arrowhead logo of Minerva.

It is a power reserve display with a bit extra as it has two hands, which normally sit above one another when the mainspring is in a healthy state of wind. But once it unwinds to a certain level, a red hand swings out from underneath the main power reserve hand and travels into the red zone.

This wristwatch can be placed into holder built into the frame of an Erwin Sattler standing clock – almost a metre high – made of granite, brass and carbon fibre that weighs a whopping 120 kg. Both the clock and the holder for the watch are gimballed, so they will always be in a horizontal position regardless of the movement of the deck, like a marine chronometer.

The clock face is similar to the watch dial, with a regulator display and power reserve indicator. Additionally it has a chain and fusee, and a 360 hour power reserve.

16 sets will be made, with eight each paired with rose gold and white gold wristwatches.

Third is the creative TimeWriter II Chronographe Bi-Fréquence 1,000. This is the second TimeWriter project, the first being the Metamorphosis chronograph with the transforming dial (that incidentally was finally shown working perfectly this year). TimeWriter is a biennial creative watchmaking project, conceived by an independent watchmaker and sponsored by Montblanc.

The Spanish watchmaker behind the Bi-Frequence is named on the dial: Bartomeu Gomila. As with other chronographs like this, the Bi-Frequence has two barrels, one for the time and another for the chronograph. It also has two balance wheels for the same purpose.

Interestingly the balance wheels have very long staffs so that the balance and escape wheels are visible on the front, while the hairspring is on the back. At seven o’clock is the timekeeping balance wheel running at a mere 18,000 bph, while at ten o’clock the chronograph balance wheel runs at a frenzied 360,000 bph when activated.

That high beat balance means the central chronograph hand races around the dial once a second, measuring 1/100^th of a second. At six is the co-axial 60 seconds and 15 minutes counter. But the chronograph has a power reserve of 45 minutes only, displayed at three o’clock.

What makes this different from other such chronographs is the 1/1000^th of a second display at 12 o’clock. This remains static at “N” while the chronograph is movement, but jumps to the appropriate thousandth of a second when the chronograph is stopped. In the photos it shows 7/1000^th of a second.

The mechanism behind this 1/1000^th of a second display is quite novel and patent pending, so a clear and complete explanation cannot be provided yet according to Mr Gomila. But in principle it works by using a wheel linked to the 360,000 bph balance that changes the gear ratio, enabling the 1/100^th of a second of the chronograph seconds to be divided into 1/1000th of a second.

Mr Gomila explains that this is superior to the method of using an even higher frequency balance wheel (as favoured by TAG Heuer) as a lower beat balance has less wear and tear, a longer power reserve and more consistent amplitude.

And now for much lighter fare.  The distinctive Rieussec chronograph is now available with dual time zone, indicated by a disc helpfully labelled “Home Time”. This is linked to a day/night indicator at nine o’clock.

And the centre of the dial has been opened up as well. The Rieussec looks best with a simpler dial, the early versions with Geneva striping on the dial were unattractive, and though this isn’t that simple, it passes muster.

Also new is the Rieussec with diamond set bezel.

Though the Rieussec is the best known of the Montblanc chronographs thanks to its design, I prefer the look of the TimeWalker, especially the case. Two models were added to the line. The first, and more interesting, is the TimeWalker TwinFly Chronograph GreyTech with the in-house LL100 movement.

This watch epitomises “shades of grey”. Note the detail of the titanium case, which has brushed lugs and middle, and a sandblasted bezel, which provides wonderful yet subtle contrast.

And the dial has an appealing modern styling with geometric shapes. There’s quite a lot going on there but it’s still easy to read. The chronograph has co-axial seconds and minute hands in the centre, hence the name TwinFly, and a second time zone at 12 o’clock. This is a limited edition of 888 pieces.

The other new model is the TimeWalker ChronoVoyager UTC. It’s a dual time chronograph with a Valjoux 7750 movement and is necessarily priced much lower than the TwinFly. But it still looks good, especially with the grey dial and rose gold hands. The case is 43 mm in steel with a sandblasted titanium bezel.

And then for something really simple, the Star Classique Automatic. This is a 39 mm, ETA 2892 automatic. It’s available in gold, gold-steel and steel. Not much to be said about this.

Last is a charming ladies watch, the Grace Kelly. This has a subtle oval shape and elegant lugs, with diamonds set on the inner flange of the dial. It actually looks very, very good. Surprisingly, this is one of the best looking ladies watches of the fair.

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