I will begin with the comical Egiziano before discussing the proper watches unveiled at SIHH. It is a limited edition of only 300 pieces (whew) and is 60 mm in diameter like the original, but it is cased in titanium whereas the original was steel. And the Egiziano re-issue has a movement too by the way, the 8-days cal. P2002.
Panerai says this is intended as a historical tribute, for Panerai fans who want a feel of the famous Egiziano; unofficially they admit this is difficult to wear. But the depressing fact is some bright sparks out there with normal sized wrists will still be wearing one, and some of them will be posting wristshots on a forum somewhere asking if it looks a little large on their wrist.
Another historical reissue presented was the PAM28, a remake of the A- and B-series PVD-coated power reserve models with hobnail dials. This remake is DLC-coated and has slight changes to the dial, namely less text, but is otherwise nearly identical. 1000 pieces will be made.
Each year Panerai unveils a Regatta watch and this year’s 500-piece edition is a 44 mm rattrapante chronograph in a DLC-coated case. Inside lies a Valjoux 7750-based movement with two column wheels, I expect this movement comes from La Joux-Perret. Like many Panerais including most of those launched this year, this is a handsome watch that looks good on the wrist.
Also unveiled was the Luminor Chrono Daylight. Originally a limited edition for Sylvester Stallone made for the tunnel-disaster film Daylight, the name has since been applied to various chronographs, the latest of which is this blue dial titanium version. This is available on strap as the PAM326 or on titanium bracelet as the PAM327.
Several changes were made to Luminor Marina Automatic models. The 44 mm tobacco-dial titanium version is now available on a matching bracelet as the PAM296.
The 40 mm steel automatic PAM 298 available on two different bracelets, either the older titanium and steel bracelet or the newer all steel bracelet. I have no idea how this is different from the previous 40 mm automatic in steel, I can’t remember what I was told and the press kit isn’t clear.
Automatic on steel and titanium bracelet
On all steel bracelet
Now we move on to the Manifattura collection of watches using in-house movements. A new group of calibres was presented, the P.9000, P.9001 and P.9002, all of which have three day power reserve and zero-reset hack function for the seconds hand. These movements also have bidirectional winding using a V-shaped arm which reminds me of Seiko’s Magic Lever mechanism.
All new models using the P.9000 series movements are presented in 47 mm 1950-style cases with flat crystals instead of the domed crystal of the 1950. These watches will be the entry level of the Manifattura collection.
A subtle but well thought out change for the P.9000 watches are two notches on the rear of the case at the lugs.
New P.9000 family Manifattura cases on the left, regular cases on the right
Bracelets have a corresponding extension on the end links which gives the bracelet a much better fit than before.
The basic movement of the line is the P.9000, an automatic with date. This is used in the PAM312 and PAM328, which are strap and bracelet versions respectively of the time-only 1950 automatic.
The P.9000 is also found in the PAM305 Submersible in titanium. This is the first Submersible I know of in titanium; its 47 mm diameter makes it seem slimmer than the 44 mm Submersible.
The P.9001 is the same calibre with the addition of a GMT hand and a power reserve indicator on the rear. That’s visible on the left of the movement in the movement picture below: when the watch is fully wound the semicircular indicator is black as below, once it runs down the indicator turns red. This is the PAM320 on strap and PAM329 on bracelet.
Third is the PAM321, only available on strap. This is the same as before but with the power reserve display on the dial. Bringing the power reserve indicator to the front clutters the dial too much for my liking.
Three high horology pieces were premiered, two versions of the Tourbillon GMT and a rattrapante chronograph.
The first of the tourbillions is the PAM331 in a 47 mm titanium Luminor case, the second P.2005 tourbillion in titanium. This has a brushed case and black dial, its predecessor had a polished case and tobacco dial. 150 pieces will be made.
The other is a 48 mm Radiomir tourbillion in pink gold with brown dial. Unfortunately the Radiomir case is not made to be inflated to this size, this watch looks vastly overweight, especially so with the wire lugs. This is a limited edition of 100.
To conclude Panerai we have the PAM319 rattrapante chronograph in pink gold. This is the thickest Panerai I have ever seen, I don’t have the exact height but it is probably 20 mm or so. It is an impressive watch, not only in size but also because of the movement inside – it’s the only 8-days split-seconds chronograph I know of. A limited edition of 300 units.
Last is the Panerai Ferrari collection. These watches are 45 mm like before but the bezels have been made much thinner, resulting in a larger looking watch. All of them contain Valjoux 7750-derived movements.
The basic model is the Ferrari Chronograph, available with either red or yellow dial (what will owners of grey or blue Ferraris do?).
Also presented was a rattrapante chronograph available in either steel or DLC-coated steel.
Finally we arrive at the last two watches, a pair of limited editions. The first is a DLC-coated chronograph dedicated to Ferrari’s involvement in Formula One racing. Rather than the F1 logo, there is a stylised shape of an F1 on the dial instead since the F1 logo is trademark. This is limited to 100 pieces.
The second is a 400-piece limited edition for the Ferrari California convertible launched late last year. This is a flyback chronograph featuring a carbon fibre insert in the caseback.
It is hard to resist a Ferrari logo set in carbon fibre
This message has been edited by SJX on 2009-02-01 03:41:20 This message has been edited by SJX on 2009-02-02 22:48:39