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*** A. Lange & Söhne

Each year Lange typically debuts one new complication, plus as assorted number of existing models with new dials or cases. This year continued that tradition but Lange did it better than before.

1815 in platinum - 500 pieces limited edition

Two new movements were presented, one of them, the cal. L051.1, is housed inside the new 1815. The 1815 was discontinued two years ago and has made a comeback in a larger 40 mm case (against the 36 mm case of the original). Thankfully, this is still the Lange 1815, not a Grande 1815 or 1815 XL.

Most significantly, the new movement is a wider, new calibre, designed specifically for this case – new case, new movement – brilliant. While it does share some parts with the old 1815, it is a new calibre, with a larger balance wheel and different wheel train. Some of the other differences with the old 1815 movement include more jewels (23 vs. 21), larger dimensions (30.6 x 4.6 mm vs. 25.6 x 3.2 mm), longer power reserve (55 vs. 45 hours) and more screwed gold chatons (5 against 4).

Cal. L051.1 of the new 1815 

The new movement is not anything extraordinary, it’s only large manual-wind calibre, but the fact that Lange designed a new, time-only movement to fit in a larger case (instead of just making the case Grande-r) is commendable. The new 1815 is large compared to the discontinued version, but it is well proportioned and handsome. Heck I like it just because it has a proper new movement.

The new 1815 is available in three colours of gold, as well as a 500 piece limited edition in platinum.

1815 in white gold

1815 in yellow gold

1815 in rose gold

The other new movement from Lange is the L044.1 found in the Richard Lange Pour le Mérite. It gets its name from the chain-and-fusee transmission which maintains constant torque to the escapement regardless of the state of wind of the mainspring. This is the third Lange watch with a chain-and-fusee mechanism, after the Tourbillon Pour le Mérite and the Tourbograph (notice the contrasting elegance of the two names).

Richard Lange Pour le Merite in rose gold  

A chain-and-fusee mechanism comprises a chain wrapped around a cone and linked to the barrel. At full wind, the chain is completely coiled around the cone, since the tip of the cone is small, the leverage of the fusee is also small; the mainspring is at full wind so it delivers high torque. As the mainspring winds down, its torque drops, but the chain is gradually being unwound thus leaving it coiled around the lower parts of the cone that have a wider diameter, resulting in a larger lever arm of the fusee which compensates for the lower torque. And in case you haven’t noticed the figure repeated multiple times in the press release, the chain has 636 individual parts.

Close-up of the chain

The watch is more than just the chain-and-fusee. The movement is designed to stop at 36 hours (just like the Datograph) and the barrel has a mechanism to block its winding just before being fully wound so as not to damage the chain. In addition the watch also has a stop seconds function (similar to the Cabaret tourbillion) in which a lever stops the balance wheel when the crown is pulled. And like other Lange high complications, the escapement uses a free-sprung, in-house balance.

Close-up of the stop seconds lever 

This is one of the few Lange high complications of recent years I truly like. Why?

Three part enamel dial  

It is 40.5 mm wide and 10.7 mm thick. Everything on the dial is proportional and harmonious, no cut-off Roman numerals or tiny tourbillion cage lost in a vast dial. Furthermore the dial has beautiful depth and texture, being a three-part enamel dial. This is an elegant, discreet sample of Lange at its best.

This will be a limited edition of 50 in platinum and another 200 in pink gold. I wish Lange would make a yellow gold version though, I expect that would look very good paired with the white enamel dial.

Richard Lange Pour le Merite in platinum 

The other new products are less interesting as they are all variations of existing watches. That being said, I love the new white gold Datograph Perpetual with a dark grey dial. It is nothing new but the watch looks spectacular. I never warmed to the stark Datograph Perpetual in platinum, it is too monochrome, in contrast this version is much more richly coloured; the blue moonphase complements the dial especially well.

 Other new models include a new Lange 1 in white gold with luminous indices. It is reminiscent of a small edition made for Cellini several years ago.

Also new is a Lange 1 Time Zone in rose gold with grey dial.

Lange presented the Lange 1 Moonphase in a 36 mm case with mother-of-pearl dial, available with dark or white dials. The white version is too pastel and pale, the dark version is an attractive, if serious looking, ladies’ watch.

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