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*** Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre presented numerous new products in many directions, which it always does. The number of models and lines verge on being confusing, but some of the new products are worthy of note. There was also a rumour of a ultra-grande complication, one that only a handful of brands produce, that would be unveiled later this year, but JLC executives had no comment on that.

Though the Reverso is JLC’s trademark, there were few new Reverso models this year. One new launch are the new larger sized gent’s Reversos. The basic hand-wind and Duo, originally only in the Grand Taille size, have been Grande-d. Aside from being larger, they also feature integrated straps, which give the watch a sleek look but because of their stiffness do not fit smaller wrists well. Both new Reversos are available in steel or pink gold.

The new Grande Reverso measure 46.5 x 29.5 mm and uses a new cal. 976. It is a large and flat movement, a perfect fit for the watch. The calibre is essentially a manual-wind version of the automatic calibre in the Squadra Hometime. I like the large calibre more than the large watch.

A Grande Duodate was also presented; it is a big Duo with date. Slightly larger than the Grande Reverso at 52 x 31.3 mm, it displays the date in a rather small window on the silver dial, while the rear black dial indicates day and night in addition to the time.

Duodate in rose gold

Duodate in steel

Another new Reverso is the Squadra Lady in pink gold on bracelet.

Next is the Master Compressor Navy SEALs range created in partnership with the US Navy SEALs. The JLC marketing material touts these as “professional diving instruments of an elite corps” which is quite laughable, it is difficult to image a Navy SEAL wearing one of these, especially the rose gold versions. That being said, the collection is actually attractive and devoid of obtrusive logos emblazoned in prominent locations on the case. In fact, I prefer most of the Navy SEALs models to the equivalent Master Compressor models, the Pro Geographic being a good example.

All the Navy SEALs watches have with matte ceramic bezels. Each watch comes with an aged leather strap as well as a “James Bond” style canvas band. They are available on a rubber strap, rubber-coated metal bracelet or a matching metal bracelet.

The basic model in the range is the alarm, a limited edition of 1500 pieces in titanium.

The next model is the chronograph, available in a limited edition of 500 pieces in pink gold and 1500 pieces in titanium. Water-resistance is 300 m for the gold and 1000 m for the titanium.

Finally comes the Pro Geographic, a mechanical depth gauge wristwatch that was first launched in 2007 in titanium with blue dial. It is now presented in pink gold and black which I like much better. I really like this one, ludicrous as the concept is: a depth gauge wristwatch waterproof to 300 m with world time function in a 46.3 mm 18k pink gold case created in collaboration with the US Navy SEALs. 300 pieces will be made in pink gold.

Another new watch in the Master Compressor range, but not a Navy SEALs watch, is the GMT Lady Céramique. The case, bracelet and bezel are in black ceramic. At 39 mm, this watch is marginally larger than the metal case GMT Lady, but because of its colour it does not appear large. It looks too much like the highly successful Chanel J12, but then again round, black ceramic ladies’ watches tend to look very similar. If you ask me, Rado makes the most distinctive ladies’ ceramic watches.

The last diver’s watch presented this year is the Master Compressor Extreme W-Alarm “Tides of Time”, a limited edition aimed at “raising people’s awareness on the need to protect marine sites”, part of JLC’s partnership with UNESCO. IWC and JLC appear to be competing to save the world but JLC appears to be marginally ahead since their watches are larger.

This watch is available in titanium (350 pieces) or rose gold (200 pieces). It is largely similar to the regular world time-alarm, except that three cities on the world time discs have been changed names of locations of nature sites on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

New AMVOX models were shown as well. I don’t like the AMVOX watches much so I little to say. The AMVOX 3 Tourbillon GMT is now available in platinum and ceramic. It is a limited edition of 200 pieces.

The AMVOX 2 DBS case-activated chronograph was also presented in steel or platinum, limited to 499 and 00 pieces respectively.

The Master Grande Ultra Thin is now available with black dial, in either steel or rose gold, previously only silver dials were available. These are elegant watches but contain disconcertingly small movements.

We now get to a new JLC collection, the Master Grande Tradition. It is so named not because it is a bigger version of the Master range, but rather because it is made in the ‘grand tradition’ of Swiss watchmaking; JLC says it applies a higher level of finishing to watches in this collection. Two models were presented, a tourbillion with perpetual calendar and a regulator minute repeater.

Master Grand Tradition perpetual calendar touribillon in platinum

In rose gold

Both models the perpetual-tourbillon and repeater are available platinum, pink or yellow gold. The yellow gold versions of both models are limited editions – 100 pieces for the repeater and 300 pieces for the tourbillion with perpetual calendar. Notably, both yellow gold limited editions use diamond-coated silicon escape wheels and levers. A magnifier is affixed to the display backs of the limited editions to show the silicon escapement.

Master Grand Tradition regulator minute repeater yellow gold LE with magnifier on display back

Because of the ostensible timekeeping advantages offered by the silicon escapement, JLC has created a new certification, the “1000 Hours Chrono”, for these watches. The certification entails 1000 hours of testing for the movements and as well as subsequently finished watches. While it sounds impressive, I would think JLC, and other manufacturers, do already test movements prior to casing and then again as finished timepieces.

The Grand Tradition movements are supposed to be finished to a higher standard than typical JLC movements. A brief examination of the movement bears that out, the calibres inside the Grand Tradition watches appear less industrial looking than the other JLC complications like the Master Tourbillon. Notably the Geneva stripes are finer and the bevelling is deeper and better polished. This is not Patek or Lange level finishing, but definitely a step up from what JLC has been doing in most of its complications.  I did not have the time to examine these carefully but I would certainly like to.

Swiss German silver bridges

Unusually, the bridges and baseplate movement of the minute repeater have the soft glow characteristic of German silver; JLC says they are non-treated nickel silver and avoids the word German studiously. Furthermore the balance cock is hand engraved and jewels are held in steel chatons, albeit by rhodium-plated steel screws. German silver, engraved balance cock, jewels in chatons….. Hmmm.

Finely made as these watches are, especially for JLC, they remain very thick, as is characteristic of JLC complications, which is a pity. A little slimmer and these would be truly outstanding.

The last range is the Enamel collection 2009. Each model demonstrates a different technique of enamelling, all of which is done in-house by JLC at Le Sentier, an impressive fact in itself.

First is the Master Minute Repeater Grand Feu, a 100 piece limited edition with a white enamel dial. The dial is indeed beautifully made, possessing the colour, texture and character that only real enamel can achieve. Unfortunately the watch looks pedestrian and like the other JLC repeaters is also very thick.

Next is a collection of watches depicting Venus on the hand-enamelled dial. Four classical paintings were used as dial motifs: ‘The Birth of Venus’ by Botticelli, ‘The Venus of Urbino’ by Titian, the ‘Rokeby Venus’ by Velasquez and ‘Venus Anadyomène’ by Ingres. The last one is pictured below.

Each is available in platinum or pink gold as a unique piece in that metal. The enamelling is incredibly detailed and mighty impressive but the watch is not to my liking, it looks much too ornate and Neoclassical for me; like living in a newly built home modelled on the Parthenon.

The final watch in the Enamel collection, and by far my favourite JLC of 2009, is the Master Grand Tourbillon Continents. Three dials are available, depicting Asia, the Americas or the Middle East, each crafted in champlevé enamel. This method of enamelling calls for the metal surface, in this case an 18k gold dial, to be engraved before being covered in enamel that is fired, resulting in shimmering translucent colours.

It is almost impossible to dislike champlevé enamel; this watch is 43 mm in diameter, but the dial is so brilliant that the large and thick case doesn’t bother me, neither do the coordinates or cardinal points engraved on the bezel (this must have been cleverly inspired by Patek’s cloisonné world time). Similarly, the tourbillion movement inside is nowhere nearly as finely finished as the Grand Tradition, but the dial just makes it incredibly beautiful. This retails for about three times the price of the regular Master Tourbillion but enamel, especially champlevé or cloisonné, is always, always expensive. Thrown in a complication and the premium is magnified. 20 each in platinum, pink and yellow gold will be made for each of the three continent motifs.

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