SJX
[Purist]
8540
*** IWC
True to form, IWC showcased a big collection with strong mass market appeal.
Two traits that have made IWC what it is – an accessible price point combined with high quality cases and bracelets – are evident in the flagship collection for 2009, the revamped Aquatimer range.
One big significant change is the lack of any titanium models in the Aquatimer range. That is surprising given the long prevalence of titanium for IWC diver’s watches since the iconic Ocean 2000. In fact, the titanium versions of the GST watches retailed for less than the steel, the explanation being that IWC got so good at working with titanium that it cost less. I am fairly certain, and this is my speculation, that we will see titanium diver’s watches either next year or the year after.
At first sight the new Aquatimer watches are disappointing. When I first saw pictures I thought they looked like TAG Heuer watches. But their build quality is outstanding, as with all IWCs. For example, all new Aquatimers feature scratch-proof sapphire-covered bezels. These are not watches aimed at watch collectors who obsessively read watch forums on weekends, weeknights and even during working hours, rather they targeted at the layman watch buyer who is looking for a well made dive watch. Given the build quality and price point, which is similar to that of the old Aquatimer, these watches offer very good value for money. Watches like these are smart products for the times.
Sapphire-covered bezel
The new Aquatimer range features several substantive changes over the original, though all improvements are external, the movements remain ETA-based. All are 44 mm wide, except for the Deep Two which is 46 mm. But the most important improvements are the sapphire-covered bezels and quick change bracelets.
The bracelet replacement system is easy to use, requiring only the press of a tab to remove the bracelet, making it convenient to swap from bracelet to strap (either rubber or nylon) and keeping in tradition with IWC’s reputation for easily adjustable and well made bracelets. This mechanism was developed under license from Cartier and I do find it odd that despite IWC’s reputation for (and tradition of) easily adjustable and well made bracelets, it used a Cartier patent instead of developing its own. I guess this is what management consultants call synergy.
The new quick-adjust bracelet
The basic model is the Aquatimer 2000, an automatic diver’s watch water-resistant to 2000 m. On bracelet it’s a reassuringly hefty watch at 211 g, which is quite a lot for a watch that isn’t overly large; I expect that is because the ETA2892-based movement inside is fairly small and the case is thick. This is available with either a white or black dial, though I like the white dial with orange accents better.
The next model in the collection is the Aquatimer Chronograph, also available with two dials. Again I like the blue and orange combination over the black dial. This is water-resistant to 120 m.
The Aquatimer chronograph is also available in rose gold. Even though it’s supposed to be a diver’s watch, the colour scheme and dial motif remind me of car racing or football (soccer for Americans).
Unlike the steel version of the chronograph which uses a Valjoux 7750 based calibre, the rose gold chronograph contains the cal. 8000 series flyback calibre. The cal. 8000 automatic movements are found in several models launched in 2009 and is now clearly the choice for most of the mid- to upper-end automatic IWC watches. (I won’t get into the debate on whether the cal. 8000 is truly in-house or merely proprietary).
The final Aquatimer chronograph is the Edition Galapagos Islands. Proceeds from the sale of the watch will go to preserving the Galapagos Islands. This is not a limited edition, which hopefully means more will be made and sold and more tortoises and Galapagos wildlife is saved.
At first glance this looks like yet another black watch, but it is different. The whole case is coated in rubber, giving it a unique matte textured surface. I reckon this is the first entirely rubber coated watch.
I wonder how this finish age over the long term, especially since rubber tends to crack over time, and the possibility of repair or recoating if it is damaged. But given IWC’s world class factory service, which is one of the best in the industry, I am sure owners will be well cared for.
Last in the Aquatimer collection is the Deep Two, evolved from the Deep One of the GST range. Like its predecessor, it contains a mechanical depth gauge capable of measuring depths of up to 50 m (vs. 45 m in the Deep One).
Deep Two on bracelet
And on nylon strap
The Deep One functioned via a tube surrounding the movement that filled with water. The Deep Two, on the other hand, works through water pressure acting on a membrane in the crown on the left of the case. Depth is then indicated on the left of the dial – the blue hand indicates current depth while the red hand indicates maximum depth achieved; the red hand remains at the maximum depth unless reset by a button on the left of the case. I have the details of the mechanism yet, but it would be interesting to compare it to the JLC Master Compressor depth gauge watch, which also works via pressure acting on a membrane.
Moving on the Portuguese collection, which has a new Laureus limited edition, a Portuguese 7-days automatic with the trademark Laureus blue dial. [Information on Laureus Portuguese removed at request of IWC, detailed information on this watch will be posted later in the year during the official launch.]
The Portuguese Minute Repeater has been subtly changed. Now it measures 44 mm in diameter, whereas it was formerly 42 mm, and it now uses the distinctive, ¾ plate cal. 98000 first used in the F. A. Jones. Like the previous Portuguese repeater, this sound has a slow, placid chime with a good tone but it is not very loud. 500 pieces each in platinum and rose gold.
On a side note, it appears that the cal. 952 that was once found in the Portuguese repeater and also the Jubilee Portuguese is being replaced by the F. A. Jones calibre, which lacks the charm of the cal. 952. A pity.
IWC unveiled yet another Big Pilot’s automatic, this time a special edition dedicated to Antoine de Saint Exupéry. There are way too many Big Pilot variations out there, especially the dealer limited editions, and this is yet another. 1900 in total will be made, 1 in platinum, 250 in white gold, 500 in rose gold and 1149 in steel, with the piece unique platinum to be auctioned later in the year.
As with the other Antoine de Saint Exupéry limited editions, the dials are tobacco and the steel version can be distinguished from the white gold through the numerals, the gold has gold appliqué numbers while the steel has painted indices.
Big Pilot Exupery in steel
In white gold
New to the Ingenieur collection is the Big Ingenieur Chronograph, a massive 45.5 mm wide watch using the in-house flyback chronograph calibre. Available in steel, rose gold or platinum, with the platinum being a limited edition of 250 pieces. This is a good looking watch but too large for me.
The next new Ingenieur is the Mission Earth. Even bigger than the Big Ingenieur, this measures 46 mm wide and contains the cal. 8000 movement (against 45.5 mm and the 7-days cal. 5000 of the Big Ingenieur).
Next is the Da Vinci collection which sees yet another Kurt Klaus limited edition, this one in rose gold and limited to 1000 pieces. While he is no doubt deserving of the honour, Mr Klaus must be the most commemorated living person on a wristwatch. Unofficial sources tell me this is likely to be the last Kurt Klaus Da Vinci, since IWC has already exhausted all the metals available.
Finally we get to IWC’s most interesting product of the year, the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month.
This watch uses the flyback chronograph movement used in the plain Da Vinci chronograph, with the addition of a perpetual calendar that has a big date and big month display as well as a small leap year. This is one of the cleanest dials on a perpetual calendar with chronographs I have ever come across, because not only is the perpetual condensed into three windows, the chronograph hour and minute hands are also co-axial on the same sub-dial. In fact, this is one of the few such watches where the calendar is much more readable than the chronograph.
I never liked the Da Vinci case, and still don’t, but I like this movement and dial layout enough to forgive the case. This watch is innovative with a logical design, and that harks back to the fabled IWC of the 80s and 90s.
Also interesting is the price point of this watch. While it is not particularly expensive for what it is – in-house perpetual calendar chronograph – it is fairly costly for an IWC perpetual calendar chronograph. The platinum retails for approximately USD80,000 while the gold is in the USD50,000-60,000 range, well within the price range of petit complication Patek, Lange and the like. With that competition, it won’t be an easy sell but quite possible nonetheless.
Previous such models from IWC were all 7750-based and hence priced lower, but this upwards move in price is significant and is probably a signal of things to come. But we all hope IWC remembers that a higher price must be accompanied by a substantially different and improved product, as is the case with this watch.
We finish off with the Vintage collection. Originally launched last year in steel with black dial (too stark) and in platinum with silver dial (too expensive), the 6 watches are now available in white gold with grey dial or rose gold with silver dial. Certain models do work better in other metals, for example the pilot’s watch looks best in steel and black, but overall the rose gold and silver is the best iteration of the Vintage Collection. I especially like the Portuguese in this variation. If IWC once again applied the brand name, fully spelled out in italics, to this dial, it would be an incredibly beautiful watch, but perhaps too similar to the Jubilee.
On the other hand I don’t like the white gold and grey dial Vintage Collection at all. It looks dull and washed out. The Portofino looks notably awful in this guise, because for some unfathomable reason the moonphase also has a greyish tone.
This message has been edited by SJX on 2009-02-03 06:10:28 This message has been edited by SJX on 2009-05-13 07:09:51
My comprehensive SIHH and Geneva 2009 report
*** A. Lange & Söhne
I believe it has a flat hairspring
Some info on the new balance from Lange
Clarification about the stops seconds on the RL PLM
That was in reference to...
I see
*** Audemars Piguet
*** Cartier
*** De Bethune
*** IWC
*** Jaeger-LeCoultre
The integrated straps
I was given to understand they will be delivered with integrated straps...
*** Maximilian Büsser & Friends
Thanks a lot for these brilliant pics of the HM2.
*** Montblanc
*** Panerai
*** Urwerk
*** Vacheron Constantin
*** Van Cleef & Arpels
TOP TOP TOP post
Fantastic coverage, Jsx.
Thanks for taking us through the journey in an awesome way!
Brilliant, brilliant report - sumptuous photos and great reporting. Worthy of a
Lecture tour
Video? Of what?
Oh. OK. Anyway, I know who you're talking about
