In praise of a white metal Rolex Day-Date

Jul 26, 2020,16:17 PM
 

I’m watching the “luxury” sport steel watch market inflate into an odd bubble, that like most bubbles appears to receive its air from hype.

When I purchased my Nautili (Nautiluses?) and AP Jumbo, these used to sit in dealers' cases and were regularly discounted as these weren’t as popular with the regular clientele. What’s interesting is that I never found the Nautili or Jumbo to be practical daily wear watches as I would accumulate a prodigious quantity of dents and scratches on these watches that were highly visible given the flat bezel design as well as bracelet designs that somehow accentuated scratches and wear. See my recent post on my 5196P to get a sense for how I wear my watches, which is to say I don’t worry about them being on my wrist when I wear them.

So, if one is looking for a luxury “sport” everyday watch, let me make a case for a pre-owned white gold or platinum Rolex day-date. These are incredible values in the used market even for the platinum pieces (at least relative to these other luxury steel “sport” watches), are tough as nails, dress up well when needed and have a design that hides imperfections extraordinarily well.

Just something I was dwelling on today as I wore my 36mm PT DD after a couple of years. The picture below doesn’t capture the subtle ice blue hue well given my limited photography skills, but this old friend has made me appreciate the many decades of refinement that has gone into making it the pinnacle of luxury sport watches in the white metals and an absolute value relative to its steel upstarts. One doesn’t think of a DD as a sport watch, but it has serious credentials for durability and water resistance and if the Nautili and the Jumbo can be sport watches, then why not the DD in WG or Pt at a much lower price point in the secondary market?  And in my opinion, the bracelet is nothing to sneeze at relative to the competition.  

I know this post will likely elicit many counterpoints, but that's the beauty of the Purists isn't it?



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Very reliable piece to go to, I hear you about dents and things in the Jumbo 15202, at least,

 
 By: K-Lo : July 26th, 2020-16:48
Funny thing was, I had the 15202 for many years, and then the crown came out, literally no no no no scratches or anything on it. It was not until it was at the AP service center in Clearwater, that, the first scratches and dings appeared on the piece. But... 

I couldn’t agree more

 
 By: Boris : July 26th, 2020-18:28
36mm Day Date’s, either in platinum or white gold, are of fantastic value and great daily wearers, at least if going for a sapphire crystal version. I mean, it’s the same proven oyster case design and sturdy movement found elsewhere in Rolex line, so it’s... 

I am in agreement here.

 
 By: Jay (Eire) : July 26th, 2020-17:52
There is a lot to love with the Day Date. Particularly the original (36mm) size and a white metal. It’s a pretty durable and versatile watch. And for sure it remains the forgotten watch (at least in 36mm, the 40mm is almost as difficult as a Submariner to...  

When did you buy your Nautiluses and RO?

 
 By: Reuven Malter : July 26th, 2020-22:46
Agree that the dd is actually more of a sport watch

Your Rolex might be the true "sports" watch...

 
 By: patrick_y : July 26th, 2020-23:59
Rolex Watch. Monobloc case. Check (AP Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus have 2-3 part cases) Screw down crown (Royal Oak doesn't have this, but most Nautilus models do). Check. No exposed rubber gaskets (improved water resistance). Check. Nautilus and... 

Good comparison.

 
 By: countzero : July 27th, 2020-03:44
I might add that RO and Nautilus have somewhat delicate movements, whereas Rolex movements are arguably among the most robust in the market. A consideration not to be overlooked when it comes to "sports" watches!

Great points, thanks for your thoughts.

 
 By: Horo_Traveler : July 27th, 2020-08:37
Form over function for the AP and Nautilus. Form AND function for the DJ and DD.

Agree 100%

 
 By: jmerce : July 27th, 2020-07:13
...  

You captured the blue dial perfectly.

 
 By: Horo_Traveler : July 27th, 2020-08:45
Mine appears to be a lighter shade of blue.

You should try out a DD 36mm platinum.

 
 By: Horo_Traveler : July 27th, 2020-17:33
There is something really satisfying about the weight, and the fit and finish are excellent. That said, not everyone may like the design and how the watch looks on the wrist.

Perhaps this will tempt you to try it?

 
 By: Horo_Traveler : July 27th, 2020-18:33
...  

Fair point ! [nt]

 
 By: maroufios : July 27th, 2020-22:17