Spangles - Dr. Tabby
5595
That's how watchmaking is done, though.
The in-house Patek or AP has a lot of things done by small specialist contractors.
Breguet does guilloché in-house because they bought the small company of the man who did their work. Some specialty dials are likely still contracted.
It's even more true of independents. This isn't a problem as it is part of Swiss watchmaking and work is high quality.
Roger is interesting as his plan is to move to more industrial production in terms of coating gears with DLC for true lubrication free movements. That's going to lose something in terms of hand-work.
Roger Smith vs Rexhepi
Fellow collectors I have an option to confirm an order for a RWS or wait for the next RR CC due 2021. Thoughts and feedback please: - finish - construction - value preservation Thanks in advance
Huge congratulations, either way you've doing well imho !
both are different schools...interms of finishing, construction et al, the only common point is both believe in traditional hand-made watchmaking. value retention - i think both will retain value as they're quite limited in number but both have different ...
What a lovely dilemma to have!
Roger's watches are 13.5mm thick. Some may not be ok with that especially on a dress watch. Both are made and finished very well - but they are finished differently. Rexhep naturally adopts the Swiss style which we are more accustomed to with the Geneva s...
My biggest beef with Smith is the thickness...
...otherwise I love the look, especially the early models that I saw (and couldn't afford at the time)...very rustic. I passed on a Rexhep only because he would not accommodate a simple custom request. Sometimes I feel bad about passing, but I'm not at th...
Another nit-pick: RWS doesn't use a Breguet overcoil for the hairspring,
Concern for thickness clearly isn't the reason he's not using it. Seems an odd omission on a chronometre unless someone can think of a reason? Otherwise, an incredible watch!
I saw an early version of the rectangular one shown below...
...that I believe belonged to a Purist many years ago. To this day I don't know that any watch, other than a Simplicity, has moved me more... Timezone This one, rarely seen, I would do very bad things to own : ) ...
For some reason I am under the impression...
...that the rectangular watch (especially the first one) seems much thinner than his round versions. If I had Smith money I would commission a rectangular version : )
Unfortunately, even with Smith money
Roger is less flexible with his customisations and prefers to stick to his Series 1 to 5 round cases. Yes, the rectangular case does look thinner.
When one buys a Smith, Rexhep or Kari
in my opinion, there must be no compromises. The alternatives to these watches are some very nice cars or yachts!
We think alike! :-)
I too have to discriminate when it comes to choosing one holy grail due to financial restrictions. I have a Smith on order but the thickness may force me to let it go. So I think a Kari will probably end up as my holy grail since he can make a bespoke wat...
Just to speak a bit in favor of the Smith...
At that level of watch, wearability would be less of a factor for me. I think watches like the Series 2, Simplicity, Vingt-28, etc. are safe-queen material, and best enjoyed with a loupe, other watch collectors, and maybe occasionally on the wrist for spe...
After spending so much on a watch
I have to justify the purchase by actually wearing it! For this reason, the thickness of the Series 2 may become a concern. The 28E below however is more than 2mm thinner and Kari has agreed to make one in 37mm instead of the usual 39mm. The fact that a K...
Agree...
...it's like having a super-hot wife and never...well, you know what I mean : )
Yes it would be!
I could choose a dark green or blue dial but Kari suggest the black.
Hey my friend, isn’t the one we saw when you were in Paris long ago?
I must look in my hard disk I hope I can find the pics... or maybe same place but at another occasion with Ekaterina...
I don't think so Mike
because Kari only introduced the 28E last year with a titanium case. It was definitely another watch - the 2 Eight introduced in 2012 in 37mm with a mother of pearl dial and no seconds dial. ...
chateau d'yquem or mouton Rothschild
Different but both amazing can't go wrong I am going to say Smith as I am waiting for a CC from rexhep so it is a selfish decision Honestly both are excellent Throw a Dufour in there for utter confusion Regards Julian
What a great predicament and dilemma to have
Both are top notch watch makers and as everyone stated different schools or approaches but do share optimum craftsmanship and attention to details I’m partialled to RR but that’s just me
Thats a nice problem to have .
Both excellent watches from amazing watchmakers . Also both stunning in there own way so it will be a tough choice . I think it also depends on your patience, RWS will have a waiting time of 3 till 4 years if i am correct and when Akrivia will launch ther...
No to rain on anyone parade here...
And I get expelled here probably soon enough but based on the other comments: Buy the watch that attracts you visually the most. I'm not sure if a criteria for your purchase decision is the story of "handmade" or "artisanal honesty" behind those watches, ...
That's how watchmaking is done, though.
The in-house Patek or AP has a lot of things done by small specialist contractors. Breguet does guilloché in-house because they bought the small company of the man who did their work. Some specialty dials are likely still contracted. It's even more true o...
"But-what-about-ism" at it's finest!
Did I say that AP or Patek are doing it and it's okay but not for independents? No. It's the same shady marketing scheme as with independents. Just because it's common practice it doesn't make it magically the honest or correct way. And especially for ind...
I share your observations!
I’ve been saying it for years, specially when collectors express negative comments about the “lower” brands, stating that they’re made by machines(at least they’re honest). It should be clear for everyone that no watch is made the traditional artisan way ...
Haha, thanks for your insights!
It's true, for better or worse marketing and good storytelling are so much of the product these days....
I'm curious as to which watchmakers you admire these days? [nt]
I believe that the vast majority of watchmakers, including independents, are using modern technology (CNC) to make many of their components. I agree that it's off-putting if they engage in misleading marketing, but are you arguing that they should abandon...
It's only about honesty...
And not about the method! If someone wants to use EDM or CNC to produce more watches he can do it and if he has the machines and know-how to do the job himself he can call it even in-house. If he wants to get the parts CNC milled and ready to get their fi...
I agree with you. That would also bother me.
Every maker that I've ordered from has been very transparent about their manufacturing process, though.
RR video comments...cutting and use of CNC
In listing to the video I see that RR says in response to a question about what they do in-house... "..its the cutting of the components its still outside [of Akrivia] for the moment, but I really try to invest in a machine in the next month to internaliz...
RR video comments...cutting and use of CNC
In listening to the video I see that RR says in response to a question about what they do in-house... "..its the cutting of the components its still outside [of Akrivia] for the moment, but I really try to invest in a machine in the next month to internal...
words to live by
I do know a bit of Roger's story, workshop, methods etc as I've spent a tiny bit of time in his workshop (before he moved it and bought the cnc lathe). My guess is that it's easier to manufacture escape wheels (co-axial even) and cases on a cnc lathe rath...
100% agreed.
The problem is indeed the transparency and not the method used. In fact, I can see why watchmakers call their watches handmade when the also use purchased CNC parts - because everyone always wants to sell or market their work at the highest value. Those l...
My best advice is to try both on the wrist...
I was fortunate to Rexhepi and I can tell that it was fantastic on the wrist. Just hope it can be dress down a bit more... I have not have a chance to try Roger's Smith yet but from the photo alone I think I would consider it more as a statement in watch ...
The Roger Smith
movement with co-axial escapement is very robust and does not need frequent servicing. I did not know his cases are 13.5 mm thick. That might be a concern to me on a dress watch. Good decision to have make. Oh what the heck, buy both and not regret anythi...
What a very nice choice to have!
Both beautiful independents with different finishing and construction.
My (non-expert) thoughts....
Overall finishing effort is probably similar, but they emphasize different techniques and have more/less attention in different places. I think RWS has better dials and hands, but RR has terrific anglage on the bridges and beveling on the gears. I'd proba...
Ah, that's interesting....That might push me more towards an RR if the RWS is significantly more expensive.
Has his production increased as well?
I don't know. I feel like the watches are so different in style and finish and price that it's an odd comparison.
Usually that speaks to me of a need to determine more precisely one's own taste and wants. A more truly suitable choice may then present itself.
Which one calls out more to be bought? If neither, then..
You have to look at the Plusses and Minuses of each watch.
Wow it’s a good problem to have I would say. Congrats on the call from RWS too.
Last year I was being informed a RWS has a production list in excess of 3 years. I presume it would take at least another year or so to deliver the actual watch? I say get both if money is not an issue (but unfortunately it’s a problem for most collectors...