WatchProSite|Market|Digest

Horological Meandering

Never a prime driver, rather the ecclectic approach

 

I have yet to buy a watch purely based on the colour of its metal...


As I am sure you know, many types/ models/ reference of watches, whether gold, stainless steel, etc. only came in one metal. For instance if one is drawn to vintage tool watches, there is hardly going to be a choice.
In fact having a choice is a rare occurance in the vintage world. Yes, Bubblebacks or Princes can be found in the different colours, but it not as if one is presented with different options at the same time every time. Gold, rose gold or white gold have their own charm. I think much depends on the overall presentation of the watch, its condition, etc. before considering the issue of the colour or the metal. It is clear that gold, whether yellow, rose or white have their charm and impart a clear sense of luxurury. All this is very relative, as the perception of what is rare, desirable and luxurious can change over time. We all know the effect of inverted snobbery there is towards some rare steel cased watches. Yes, a steel Patek or Vacheron chronograph can be more desirable than a gold version of the same model. Most people nowadays tend to avoid precious metals when it comes to vintage, I am certainly not. Besides its esthetic appeal, that sometimes simply cannot be beaten, I like the fact that after the great depression and the flooding of the market with stainless steel cases, gold pieces became pretty much the exception. I am not talking about Patek nor Vacheron, but about the commoners. Buying gold pieces of those other makes were pretty much the exception. In the early 1920's about half of the luxury watches sold were made of precious metal (including silver), some 20 years later, it was only one in 20 watches. I tend to think that those watches had and still have a special added value. Those are just two of many examples of our appreciation of what is best is influences by what we know... not just what we like. Well I'll rephrase that, what we like is always conditioned by culture.

I agree whith what is written above by others. Why limiting oneself to only white gold, yellow gold, pink gold, platinum and steel?
Some brands of today do not even propose steel. Would we not miss something important if did not add titanium when considering the offerings of a brand such as, say, de Bethune? And, am I only going to limit myself to dB's polished, plain titanium? What about their blued titanium cases? What about theier black zirconium treated cases? Is it possible to consider the ROOs of AP and watches made for example by RM without looking at their line of cases made of composite materials? Is there out there amateurs who only collect saphire cases? ;-) Etc., etc.
Examples abound. I possess a vintage Heuer chronograph with screw back from the early 1950's that is neither white, gold nor pink gold. I'd call it champagne gold, a bit akin to some of ALS pieces. I feel there is a very large variation in the different types of yellow gold cases. Sometimes I can be in doubt whether the watch in front of me or even on my wrist is of yellow or pink/ rose gold.

Do I prefer one type of metal more than another? I do not know. I love platinum. My wedding ring is made of platinum. Yet, I do not possess a watch with a platinum case.
I tend to prefer steel or white gold  because they tend to be much more discrete to wear. Having said that, much depends of the size of the watch, whether it comes with a bracelet of matching metal or not... in some instances, for the right occasion, I feel that yellow or pink gold is very appropriate and cannot be beaten. In my mind there is not much difference between yellow and rose gold. They are both rather showy. 
The first piece that I commissioned from a independant watchmaker had in my mind to be of white gold. That is not to say that I chose that watch because of the colour of its case. Far form it, in this case the movement and the dial came first. Subsequent pieces from the same watchmaker happened to be sometimes of the same colour and sometimes not.. I guess I like variety, but I also like to consider what I feel is best for the brief in question. The colour of the metal, as well as its finish, is just one of many aspects. 
Finally, Looking back, I believe I have gone, just like you, dear Baron, through different periods, without having really planned them. They just happened and I often only realise I have been in a period when I have jumped or been dragged into a new one. Just now much of my interest is on the early 1930's stainless steel cased chronographs and form cases. I have read all I could find about the invention, the evolution and the properties and limitations of those esrly types of stainless steel. I look at the production of the earlier case makers as the adoption of steel changed much of the industry. I try to undertand what the form of the cases of that period that I like so much (fx a stepped bezel case) owes to the nature and processing of stainless steel. I look and research all the different names, the many guises under which staineless steel whas made and advertised. So if you ask me right now what captivates me most. I guess you know the answer. As alluded to above, before that I was trying to educate myself about goldsmith essay marks... the world keeps revolving.

If your next question is whether the form of the case can be a prime driver in the purchase of a watch, then I would give you a completely different answer...

Best
Z'

  login to reply
💰442 Marketplace Listings for A. Lange and Söhne