Horological Meandering - I don't disagree... That Bulgari is a whole different animal... It's a sportier Ultra Thin Watch that's going for a modern aesthetic...

I don't disagree... That Bulgari is a whole different animal... It's a sportier Ultra Thin Watch that's going for a modern aesthetic...

Jan 25, 2021,13:47 PM

Most traditional watch brands are very traditional and very classic. The less traditional ones are SUPER modern. Like MB&F and URWERK, they make things that look like they came from the future where space travel exists.
Piaget models are become so thin that they're using the caseback as the baseplate of the movement. They're becoming incredibly thin. Even Piaget's movements are increasing in diameter though.
I was worried about the Bulgari Octo Finissimo which has won so many awards recently that it'd be uncomfortable and feel like a dinner plate on the wrist. I recall the JLC Reverso Squadra XL felt very uncomfortable because it was a big thick watch with a completely flat caseback. Not comfortable at all that flat back! The Octo Finissimo also has a flat back, although it's not very thick and much less in weight. So far, the individuals on the forum here who own Octo Finissimo timepieces tell me that the watch is delightfully thin and lightweight since the bracelet is made in titanium that the watch feels very comfortable and that you "forget" you're wearing a watch sometimes. I wouldn't call it a "gentleman's watch" since I don't consider the Nautilus nor the Royal Oak gentleman's watches (and I consider the Octo Finissimo a part of that Royal Oak/Nautilus vein with its 70s design, Gerald Genta design, and the integrated bracelet design).
But my definition of a gentleman's watch may change in the next decade or so; I may change the definition myself, or popular culture may supersede my definitions if all the major brands start making large formal watches (hard to imagine right now, but who knows, maybe one day Piaget's best selling model is a 42 mm Altiplano Tuxedo. The future is definitely a big unknown!

More posts: nautilusOcto FinissimoRoyal OakUrwerk

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Thin Watches for Gentlemen?

By: cazalea : January 25th, 2021-10:04

During my recent walks with Seikos I wore every Seiko I owned when the project started, and another twenty or so that I borrowed, shopped for, and/or purchased. In the process, I came across a number of what I would like to call GENTLEMEN'S watches. NOTE:...

OK, I'll bite:

By: Modernahab : January 25th, 2021-10:43

Breguet 5967, thickness=6.95 mm ...

That dial! Really mesmerising: you captured it beautifully

By: VinnieD : January 25th, 2021-10:45

Undoubtedly a beauty! Worth overlooking that extra mm or so of thickness from the guilloché work on the dial

By: cazalea : January 25th, 2021-10:50

Or perhaps it's the protective bezel around the outer edge. Cheers, Cazalea

Always liked that one. 👌

By: redcorals : January 25th, 2021-11:03

I concur, watches for gentlemen should never be too thick nor too big.

By: patrick_y : January 25th, 2021-11:00

Ideally a gentleman's watch should be under 40mm (exceptions can be made here); as a gentleman shouldn't conspicuously check the time too often (it's an insult to the host that the party is boring) and a smaller watch is less conspicuous in my logic. And ...

Patrick, I had you in mind when I wrote this, in fact if I'd known how I'd have published it under your byline

By: cazalea : January 25th, 2021-11:06

I checked on the Bulgari before you posted - the thinnest is about 5.25mm but most of them are 6.95 or thicker. Certainly with thin watches, the larger the diameter the more they feel like a dinner plate strapped to your wrist. There are several Ultra-Thi...