cazalea
[Seiko Moderator]
17087
Thin Watches for Gentlemen?
During my recent walks with Seikos I wore every Seiko I owned when the project started, and another twenty or so that I borrowed, shopped for, and/or purchased. In the process, I came across a number of what I would like to call GENTLEMEN'S watches.
NOTE: Throughout this article I am using the Oxford English Dictionary's first meaning: A chivalrous, courteous, or honourable man.
Synonymous with the meaning of Gentleman, these watches must be intended for use in casual men's occasions or business-like settings. Not football, or sailing, but perhaps a meeting at the club to discuss a new watch purchase, a dinner engagement, relaxing around the house on a rainy day like today ... I'm not saying it has to be a tuxedo, opera or black tie watch. I want a watch like this to be easy to set (if mechanical) so no date!
I'd like the watch to be very comfortable, so smooth edges, rounded corners, thin and slick if you get my drift. It must feel good in the hand as well as on the wrist, while being easy to put on; no fiddly catches or tricky buckles that bulge on a wrist, snag a shirt cuff, or scratch anything while reaching for a brandy snifter across the arm of your leather chair or a wooden tabletop.
Taking advantage of the lull in our daily walks (imposed by torrential rains), I present for your consideration 6 watches from my collection that fit my definition of Thin Watches for Gentlemen.
NOTE: I have excluded watches in my collection from AP, Grand Seiko, Rolex and Patek because they all exceeded 6mm (1/4") in thickness and/or had sharp edges.
THIN WATCHES FOR GENTLEMEN | |||||||
Brand/Model | Thickness | Diameter | Height | Width | Bracelet/Strap | Movement | Dial |
Gubelin 18k | 4.5 | 34 |
|
| strap | Mechanical 2-hand | Silver dial, applied gold 5-min markers |
Credor 2-tone SS | 5.2 |
| 35 | 30 | complex links, deployant buckle | Quartz 3-hand | Gold with hobnail pattern, applied 5- & 1-m markers |
Universal Geneve 18k | 5.5 |
| 24 | 28 | strap | Mechanical 2-hand | Champagne dial 5-min markers only on bezel |
Seiko gold tone SS | 5.7 |
| 29.5 | 25.5 | mesh bracelet cut to fit | Quartz 2-hand | Silver-white dial, gold applied 5-min markers |
Credor platinum | 5.5 | 34 |
|
| strap | Skeleton 2-hand | No dial, 5- & 1-min markers on chapter ring |
Seiko 2-tone SS | 5.5 |
| 36 | 26.5 | link bracelet, sliding buckle | Quartz 2-hand | Ribbed charcoal dial, gold applied XII &15-min markers plus printed gray 5-min markers |
Here they are in order as described in the table above, displayed on a fine wool surface. Notice the discrete one- or two-line brand and sub-brand labels at 12 o'clock. No essays on the dial for these timepieces!
I'm not concerned that the watch be precious metal, but it must look nice on the wrist - not gaudy or shouting for attention, but confident and self-assured whether a compliment is given aloud or just indicated by a nod or faint smile. Although the price of these watches (purchased used) ranged from $60-6,000, they all feel equally nice in hand and on wrist.
Here are the watches in order, draped over the curved lid of a leather watch box.
The hail pounding down outside gives us time for the watches to appear on my 185mm (7 3/8") wrist. Sorry, a cheerfully-casual but comfortable flannel shirt is the best I could muster this morning.
PS - a 38mm 6-watch stack
More posts:
Thin Watches for Gentlemen?
During my recent walks with Seikos I wore every Seiko I owned when the project started, and another twenty or so that I borrowed, shopped for, and/or purchased. In the process, I came across a number of what I would like to call GENTLEMEN'S watches. NOTE:...
Undoubtedly a beauty! Worth overlooking that extra mm or so of thickness from the guilloché work on the dial
Or perhaps it's the protective bezel around the outer edge. Cheers, Cazalea
I concur, watches for gentlemen should never be too thick nor too big.
Ideally a gentleman's watch should be under 40mm (exceptions can be made here); as a gentleman shouldn't conspicuously check the time too often (it's an insult to the host that the party is boring) and a smaller watch is less conspicuous in my logic. And ...
Patrick, I had you in mind when I wrote this, in fact if I'd known how I'd have published it under your byline
I checked on the Bulgari before you posted - the thinnest is about 5.25mm but most of them are 6.95 or thicker. Certainly with thin watches, the larger the diameter the more they feel like a dinner plate strapped to your wrist. There are several Ultra-Thi...
I don't disagree... That Bulgari is a whole different animal... It's a sportier Ultra Thin Watch that's going for a modern aesthetic...
Most traditional watch brands are very traditional and very classic. The less traditional ones are SUPER modern. Like MB&F and URWERK, they make things that look like they came from the future where space travel exists. Piaget models are become so thin th...
Not quite thin, but here’s a rare one: Credor by Genta
Or so it is claimed. I haven’t researched it fully yet. Cazalea ...
Very nice group; I would add something with an AP 2120/Vacheron 1120 movement.
The only one I have at this time has a date, so I am disqualified.
